16000rpm spikes? E6k
 

I really need a help on this. So i was getting my car tune 2 weeks ago then i had a fuel presure problem so we stop did a new -8 lines all the way tru with aeromotive regulator which stopped my problem.
Couple of weeks days ago went back a everything was fine till we stared boosting, it started to misfiring around 2, 3 pounds of boost and very quickly goes away. From data log it shows that its hitting the fuel cut for about a mili seconds and ecu receiving 16000rmp!!
So far tried different cas didnt work, Got new 4 injectors and new plugs which didnt seem to work. Any idea what could cause this type of problem?

wow, search for 5 minutes and you'll be astonished how often this come up.

lower you trigger gains, or shield your CAS wires from the sensor right to the ECU.
i used this stuff and have no interference even at max gains. remember to ground this at your ECU, not the engine.
http://img.tradeindia.com/fp/1/624/954.jpg

Yea i did a lot more research then 5 minutes but finally i think i find it. With the old alternator 70amp i didnt have this problem when it died i replaced it with 140 amp i think this is the main reason for it. by the way Where do u get that shield

i picked some up from the local performance shop. they called it hose dressing but i've seen it at some electronic shops.
http://www.digikey.com/us/en/ph/Tech...tal-braid.html
http://www.streetperformance.com/m/c...rformance.html
http://www.techflex.com/prod_MBN.asp

ok i am tring this tomarrow hopefully it ll work and i ll get it back on dyno to finish tunning

problem has been solved :) thank you Syritis
I had about 7 inches of wiring that was open after the blue shielded cable. So i use aluminum foal around it touching the ground cable thats already there and electric taped it. Data log shows that i didnt hit a spike yet even at 10 pounds

congrats. if you got some dyno time I'd slowly turn the gains up until you start getting the RPM spikes then lower it a couple notches.

I started seeing spikes at a gain of 8. but that is plenty so i run 3 consistently

I had this same issue. my tuner just changed my trigger and gain and it stopped doing it. BUT obviously the tune was more conservative. So if I put the shielding around the connector from the CAS to the ECU it'll eliminate this? Also did you use the stock pigtail or wire it directly?

I was thinking of eliminating the CAS and using Wheel and Trigger but I can't seem to find anything for a e6k.

https://www.rx7club.com/race-parts-only-228/hall-sensor-haltech-950211/

C. Ludwig, I Did see that, if you noticed I asked more info on his post but he never responded.

PM'd you cause I'm super lost.

you'll pull the home and trigger wires from the main harness and shield them from as close to the sensor you can get, to as far back as you can get. then crimp the shield sleeve to a wire and ground it to the same place you have your ECU grounded.

ok so i got my gain at 2 now seems to be fine,
Whats the difference if you have a low gain or high gain :scratch:

it's just the sensitivity of the CAS signal detection.
too low gain and it might miss the pickup point. too high and you'll pick up noise.

anywhere in the middle should be good.

So went back to the dyno and again not early as before but still getting spikes very hard at high boost hrrrrrrrrrrr we removed the belt and ran with no problem for 2 runs
so i got a 4 RF interference filter that goes on the wires 2 for each altenator wires and one on the cas harness it definity made a difference but STILL getiing spike even at "0" pickup

could a haltech be bad ? or something inside the box? i really need a help

My CAS wires go directly under my 90amp alternator without issue. you could try to route them further away see if that helps. also make sure your wires aren't too close to the ignition coils either. they put out a huge RFI.

When you guys say "ground from the connector to the ecu" do you just heat shrink it at the connector and then solder it to any of the haltech grounds?

with my tinned sheathing i unbraided about and inch of the sheathing then used a butt connector to crimp it to a wire. that wire goes through the fire wall and grounds to the same bolt that the ECU is grounded. ground only one side otherwise you run into the possibility of turning the sheathing into a conduit which would result in more RFI.

if your using the factory type of tinfoil type of sheathing, i'd cut the rubber insulation back as delicately as possible. wrap an electrical wire around the tinfoil then heat shrink/electro tape the wire in place.

I just bought this guy's haltech.. I hope I don't have this issue..

Syritis, GREAT idea.

B

OK Problem found even thou i dont have the e6k no more :(

First time when my car was on the dyno i had a FUEL pressure problem
So i replace the regulator ran 8an all the way from bosh 044 to the front

Second time on the dyno with all new lines and regulator And 180amp altenator which was the main reason for the spikes ..
we had spike problem so couldnt even tell if i still had the fuel problem

third time on the dyno got a whole new microtech all installed right
No spikes but my first problem came back which is the fuel pressure dropping over 8psi

___After checking everything problem was BRAND NEW bosh 044 was shorting out and there was 12v to the body which was messing the haltech up and the pump.

Hey Hblock, where did you get the 12v switched from? Also, the wires you have labeled for trailing and leading seem off. They both lead right to the wring coils, i.e. The trailing wire stops where the leading coil is, and vice versa. Are they labeled wrong, or should I just add more wire? Other than that, everything seems to be hooking up perfectly. Thanks a lot btw!

i got the 12v swith from 6 pin green plug thats next to the trailing coil one of the middle one has 12v switch power, but u could get it from anywhere, i am not sure about the coil wires i dont remember to be honest. Its very ez to find out just pin test the wires with a multimeter see if they are labeled right

cool, thanks bud