GB OPEN for Rotary Extreme FC Vmount Kits
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,158
Likes: 2
From: Union City, CA
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,158
Likes: 2
From: Union City, CA
1. You do have a higher rad cap on the engine, well at least on a S4. You can use the S4 engine neck if you want but you do not have to.
2. The system is pressurized and through the heat cycles it will draw water from the overflow tank when the car cools down.
3. Look really close at the neck in question, the factory bleed screw is there. Worst case scenario you can use that to help you get the air bubbles out.
When using the S5 rad it does have a higher rad cap so the one on the engine is not needed. But the bleed screw and overflow tank will fix the trapped bubbles. I designed this kit originally on an S4. S4 has more stuff involved with the rad and its a little different in size. I would have had to make two bracket set-ups. Sorry its not 100% perfect. But like I said, the bleed screw and overflow tank will help.
The system will be OK.
Ben
Last edited by Rotary Extreme Sales 1; Jun 10, 2012 at 09:02 PM.
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,158
Likes: 2
From: Union City, CA
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,158
Likes: 2
From: Union City, CA
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,158
Likes: 2
From: Union City, CA
https://www.rx7club.com/west-sale-wanted-classifieds-195/jdm-fc-re-amemiya-widebody-roll-cage-shell-983536/
I'm officially an FC owner. Dont expect to see this car on the road anytime soon. But I couldnt pass up on the shell. I will make it an street legal T2 car with my FC product line so I can drive it in Cali.
I'm officially an FC owner. Dont expect to see this car on the road anytime soon. But I couldnt pass up on the shell. I will make it an street legal T2 car with my FC product line so I can drive it in Cali.
Last edited by Rotary Extreme Sales 1; Jun 17, 2012 at 04:54 PM.
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,158
Likes: 2
From: Union City, CA
Good question, I have some answers for you.
1. You do have a higher rad cap on the engine, well at least on a S4. You can use the S4 engine neck if you want but you do not have to.
2. The system is pressurized and through the heat cycles it will draw water from the overflow tank when the car cools down.
3. Look really close at the neck in question, the factory bleed screw is there. Worst case scenario you can use that to help you get the air bubbles out.
When using the S5 rad it does have a higher rad cap so the one on the engine is not needed. But the bleed screw and overflow tank will fix the trapped bubbles. I designed this kit originally on an S4. S4 has more stuff involved with the rad and its a little different in size. I would have had to make two bracket set-ups. Sorry its not 100% perfect. But like I said, the bleed screw and overflow tank will help.
The system will be OK.
Ben
1. You do have a higher rad cap on the engine, well at least on a S4. You can use the S4 engine neck if you want but you do not have to.
2. The system is pressurized and through the heat cycles it will draw water from the overflow tank when the car cools down.
3. Look really close at the neck in question, the factory bleed screw is there. Worst case scenario you can use that to help you get the air bubbles out.
When using the S5 rad it does have a higher rad cap so the one on the engine is not needed. But the bleed screw and overflow tank will fix the trapped bubbles. I designed this kit originally on an S4. S4 has more stuff involved with the rad and its a little different in size. I would have had to make two bracket set-ups. Sorry its not 100% perfect. But like I said, the bleed screw and overflow tank will help.
The system will be OK.
Ben
Ben
p.s. This of course will cost me more $ because it is extra work for the fabricator, but dont worry, I got you guys covered.
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,158
Likes: 2
From: Union City, CA
I just got back 2 days ago, I was there for 3 weeks for work.
I pulled the IC cores from the storage and will bring them all the fabricator since I finally have the final core design done.
I will assemble my prototype again and see how much of a change I need to make on the radiator neck. The picture makes it look alot lower then it is.
I can have him weld in an extension.
I know it will be easier to just address this concern instead of playing with the bleed screw.
I pulled the IC cores from the storage and will bring them all the fabricator since I finally have the final core design done.
I will assemble my prototype again and see how much of a change I need to make on the radiator neck. The picture makes it look alot lower then it is.
I can have him weld in an extension.
I know it will be easier to just address this concern instead of playing with the bleed screw.
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,158
Likes: 2
From: Union City, CA
well, something I was affraid of happend.
This is only an issue when running CF hoods.
The shocks for the aluminum hood are to strong for the CF hood.
What happens is when you close the hood all the pressure is on the nuts in the hood. When we close the hood we grab the front and push it down, this applies all the pivoting force on the bolts in the hood. When the hood is down and latched and fully opened there is no tension on the hood bolts, its on the brackets.
Aluminum/CF hood come with 60 punds, steel hood come with 80lbs.
Steel hoods bearly stay open with 60's so thats why they get 80' - verified
Aluminum hoods bearly stay open with 40's so they get 60's - verified
I was told that the CF hood is about the same weight as the aluminum hood.- not verified
Maybe that was for a non tubo hood.
So all of you who are running CF hoods, please ship me back your 60's shocks and I will ship 40's back to you.
40's will not work for aluminum hoods so its not worth it to change them if you will not be running a cf hood.
PM me with questions.
Ben
This is only an issue when running CF hoods.
The shocks for the aluminum hood are to strong for the CF hood.
What happens is when you close the hood all the pressure is on the nuts in the hood. When we close the hood we grab the front and push it down, this applies all the pivoting force on the bolts in the hood. When the hood is down and latched and fully opened there is no tension on the hood bolts, its on the brackets.
Aluminum/CF hood come with 60 punds, steel hood come with 80lbs.
Steel hoods bearly stay open with 60's so thats why they get 80' - verified
Aluminum hoods bearly stay open with 40's so they get 60's - verified
I was told that the CF hood is about the same weight as the aluminum hood.- not verified
Maybe that was for a non tubo hood.
So all of you who are running CF hoods, please ship me back your 60's shocks and I will ship 40's back to you.
40's will not work for aluminum hoods so its not worth it to change them if you will not be running a cf hood.
PM me with questions.
Ben
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,158
Likes: 2
From: Union City, CA
No, once again I can not meet this deadline. I have to cut off all the necks and have them all extended. I am also waiting for the powder coated brackets.
alot of stuff happend while I was gone in AZ, even when I was in Russia stuff got backed up.
I had to stop taking orders just I can have dedicated time to finish these kits.
I turned away 4 FD vmounts because I could not finish them until I finish the FC kits. Thats a loss of 10k gross sales.
But I am working on it, I really am trying to get these out as soon as possible. The welder was the biggest single hit. He charged me a grip.
I am sorry for those of you who are upset. I really am. This is my first FC GB and I didnt know how much work/cost it would really be.
I have done FD vm and GBs alot. The FC vm is WAY more intense.
Ben
