worn apex seals
 

Low compression due to worn seals, says the dealer... Does the engine block need to be replaced? Or is there a cheaper solution?

IMO I think the best way to go is to go with a Mazda reman. I bought mine from a dealer for ~$1900 after the 8.25% TN sales tax. They chrged me $200 over invoice. Supposedly Mazda is putting out some decent reman since they revamped thier facility in florida. My only complaint is that they still use an oil pan gasket and everybody I know who has a reman has had a leaky gasket. When I changed my engine out I redid the oil pan using only high temp RTV. So hopefully mine will not leak. Good luck with your replacement. Fix everything you can while you are in there and be prepared to drop some bucks! There are several options and I am sure some other forum members will share thier opinions/experiences.

So you're saying I need to replace the engine?? I just got it!! no such thing as replacing the seals?

Replacing the seals and gaskets IS an option, however, it is costly and intesive in terms of the work and time involved.
I don't know much about the 3rd gen motors, however I can tell you about a good trick for the older rotary engines. It is possible that you have carbon buildup on your apex seals, preventing them from fully compressing and sealing which would explain your low compression.

Do a search on the ATF treatment, or go to mazdaspeed.com and hunt around for it.
Basically, you remove your leading plugs, pour about 2-4 oz. of ATF (automatic Transmission Fluid) into the spark plug holes. You crank the engine over w/o the plug wires hooked up to coat your entire engine. Let it sit for at least 24 hours. The longer the better. Put the old plugs back in and have a new set ready. The car should start up and smoke like crazy. This is the ATF and engine carbon burning off. Take the car out on the freeway and THRASH it redlining about 5-7 times. Then replace the plugs with the new ones. It should run alot better. ATF will not damage your engine. And a $2 bottle is alot cheaper than a rebuilt engine.

A couple of things about this post alarm me. First, don't listen to the dealer, because they are concerned only about the bottom line. Is this the same dealer you got the replacement engine from? And what are the problems that you are experiencing the made you take the car to get checked? I can only assume they did a compression check.
Does the car run really bad or just seem down on power? Please give some more info about the sympton. I recommend the ATF treatment as a good place to start.
Joe

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• White '90 GXL
• 173,000 miles
• 95,000 on engine
• new TPS, front rotors, stock mufflers, race/downpipe, stock intake manifold

[This message has been edited by Suparslinc (edited June 13, 2001).]

that sounds like a project...but way better than a rebuild. I wish i knew something about these engines, I couldn't even begin to locate the plugs.. I'm very scared.....lol and soon to be broke I gather

I originally took it in because of a check engine light, (02 sensor), they said I'm only getting mid 5's for compression, basically they said the engine is shot, and get rid of it.. It did seem a little low on power at times though.

Hey SugarsLinc,

Quick question while on the topic. My buddy has a 88 non-turbo that he brought into the dealer because it wouldn't start. Said something about it fouling up the plugs (don't know if was with coolant though).

They said he engine was shot (I assume a compression test was done). But when he does get the car started, it runs great. What gives? If his compression was shot the car should run like crap, no?

my grandma edith knows more about rx-7's than mazda dealerships, and i don't even have a grandma edith.

trust a dealer as far as you can throw him - his goal is to make money. bring your car in for an oil change and he'll tell you the engine is shot too.

Ok my buddy gave me more info... Coolant on the plugs, the compression test showed lobe 1 has much lower compression than lobe 2. Therefore it needs to be push started. Think the ATF solution will help?

Re: worn apex seals
 

I want to help you as much as i can!..Im now going thru the same situation. And i can tell you this...First of all what kind of car do you have???...

Assuming your motor is bad. This is what i gathered before deciding which path to go.

Remanufactured motor from the dealer will run you 2K+ Not more than 2.5K though.

If you have a TurboII (87-91) You can purchase one of them Japanese Spec motors. What this are, are used motors that they ship from JAPAN and they say that they all have low milage. (I had a bad luck with a Jspec motor) This motor will run you between 750.00- 1K. This are complete motor will all the accesories except the wiring harness, ECU, and tranny.

Rebuild motor. If you know a mechanic that is highly knowledgeable with ROTARIES ask him/her if he can perform a rebuld for you. ECONOMICAL but time consuming.
If you want to go this route and want to save alot of money i suggest you pull your own motor and make sure you label everything that you disconnect. Take the motor apart and have your mechanic inspect/measure the rotor housings, side housings, rotors, & eshaft. If you find that this parts are reusable then just buy NEW gaskets, apex seals, & mostly recommended a new rotor housings.. If you have any questions or need more advice let me know at FCTURBO2@hotmail.com

I myself went with a rebuild because i will be doing some internal engine modifications..this path costed me more than 2K dollars because i purchased new housings,gaskets, side housings, & apex seals!..good luck dude!..

ALso dont let the rotary overheat!!!..this will cause more problem inside the motor!!!.