Rotary Rebuilds
 

ok, i drive a skyline, but im an FC and FD fan, im just curious what everyone here has to say to what almost everyone else says about rotarys needing to be rebuilt once the hit 100 000km. and that they are unreliable

what kind of things should be done if you own a rotary to make it last, i have heardthings like let it run for 5 min everytime u start it b4 u drive and make sure u have a working turbo timer. id like to see everyones feedback on this

thanks

put the 3 rotor built in your skyline and find out

yea, cuz that was a helpful response.

just the basics bro....a rotary isnt a big marvel....oil and coolant keep em up to par and dont overheat did i miss something...

apex seals go out due to ....lack of oil, overheating,

^ and detonation, you dont need a turbo timer fc and fd turbos are water cooled.

Just take care your 7, check stuff out under the hood every once in awhile, or every gas fill-up.

There are some with 100k miles on original engines, then there are some with 50k that blew. My first one went at 70k due to a bad coolant seal, or warped housing or something. Got 70k on the reman, and still going strong. 140k on original turbos. I keep my oil changed every 2k, and always make sure coolant is full. You don't have to let it warm up before you drive it, just be gentle till its warm and don't rev it past like 3-4k when the engine is cold.

hey guys thanks alot for the great feedback, the car im looking at getting seems liek tis very well build and wont overheat, heres whats done, and no turbo timer needed? why is that? if its water cooled why do i need to waetch for detonation

1989 Mazda RX7 Turbo

Specs:

-109,000 kms

* TD06 2OG TURBO
* Greddy Wast Gate, Greddy turbo manifold
* Trust 2 core Intercooler
* Grex Oil Cooler
* After Market Radiator
* Electric Fan
* OS Twin Plate Clutch
* Cusko Suspention, aftermarket sway bars.
* Stabilizer Bar
* Front and rear Canber adjustments
* 8 Point Roll Cage
* Relocated Battery
* Extra Meters ( Water Temp. Oil Press, Exhaust Temp, Boost, Etc
* standalone CPU, internal engine mods, steel braided lines for almost all engine lines, 2 extra injectors plumed in.
* Bucket Race Seat
* LSD
* Fully Built tranny
* "Work" Alloy Wheels ( Front 18"x9.5" ) ( Rear 18"x12" ) 18inch
* Fuel Pump ( GTR )
* Full 3.5" Exhaust, electronic boost controller, speed meter, electronic warning device, Greddy intercooler piping, HID headlights.



* Aftermarket mirrors* Carbon Fibre

http://66.49.219.41/images/11P1010051.JPG




i test drove it todayu and tis really really loud so itd sit in my garage for a month ro so untill i get a mid pipe and some sound deadener back into it, carpeting too

haha considering that right now.
:)

keep the rotarys to mazdas, dont shame the mighty RB's

Hey that looks like a nice FC!
How did you like the OS Giken clutch? I have one in my FC....I love it!

Proper maintenance and it should last a long time.
I imported an 87 FC from Japan, it had 155,000kms on it at the begining of the summer and at the end of September it blew the motor at 170,000kms. It took one hell of an ass kickin all summer long though.

From Kevin Lander's website: rotary engine longevity

hey thanks, i hope i get it, me and one other guy are pushing for it, thanks for all the feedback guys, adn when i test drove it i thinkn i fell in love with the clutch

You gotta watch for detonation with a rotary because one good knock can break an apex seal, and then your motor is trash. And the broken apex seal pieces usually take out the turbos on their way out, too!

so how do i keep my eye out for detonation on a rotary and what can i do to prevent it

bump

Gonna buy that tyee car eh?

My 1988 FC NA SE has 235K miles and it pulls strong and idles at 750 rpm. 13B rotary will go 300K if you change oil regularly, clean throttle body, and clean fuel injectors.

My 1988 FC NA SE has 235K miles and it pulls strong and idles at 750 rpm. 13B rotary will go 300K if you change oil regularly, clean throttle body, and clean fuel injectors.

well c what happens :D