Rebuild... special equipment
 

I'm not experineced in rebuilding rotaries and neve seen one being rebuilt. i know how everything works there but i would like to ask, what special equipment is needed to rebuild rotary other than tools? are there special devices, does it need special calibration or something, different from piston engine?

generally speaking, special devices and tools go hand-in-hand when you're talking about rebuilding an engine. and depending on the condition of the parts you'll be using, you'll need a couple things. there are a number of specialty tools that Mazda uses, as well as many other engine builders, but not all of them are absolutely necessary. off the top of my head, you'll need: dowel pin puller, pilot bearing removal tool, impact gun capable of high torque *or* one hell of a breaker bar, a torque wrench (and the higher the rating, the better. one nut requires ~300+ lb/ft of torque), a 55mm socket, engine stand w/ adapter.... if the housings are being re-used, you'll need a micrometer to make sure they're still within tolerances... i'm sure there's more i'm forgetting.

edit: also, spend the extra money to buy a how-to DVD. it's worth its weight in gold if you're new at rebuilding rotaries.

what is this engine stand doing? is it a balancing device for rotational assembley? where can i find info about it and its adapters?

An engine stand is what you put the engine on so that its not on the floor. They are pretty much universal, so you need an adapter to get your specific engine type to fit on the stand. Rotary engines don't use the same adapter as a V6. A Honda V6 most likely won't use the same adapter as a Ford V6. It has nothing to do with balancing the engine, it just makes it much more easier to work on. The head of the stand pivots so you can turn the engine around to work on the top or bottom or what ever you need. I don't have great pictures of it, but I'll post a picture of mine for you. I can't find a picture of the adapter, but its a U shaped steel piece that was welded up with the holes on one side to match where the engine mounts are and the other side has holes to fit the stand head.

As for special tools, he pretty much named them all. The socket you need is 2 1/8th inch socket. 54mm I believe is the metric measurement listed in all the books and manuals, but its easier to go to Sears and ask for it by 2 1/8th because they will tell you they don't have metric sockets that big and won't bother trying to convert it from metric. If you grab a Haynes manual and read through chapter 2, you'll see what tools are needed and where they are used.

As for calibrations, the engine has 2 counterweights. One on the front of the crank shaft and the other is in the rear either attached to the flex plate if its an auto tranny, or built into the stock flywheel if its a manual tranny. After market flywheels have a detachable counterweight. If you are rebuilding the same engine with the same rotating assembly (which is the same two rotors, same crank, same front counterweight and same rear counterweight) then it will balance out. Different year engines have different weights of counterweights because the rotor weigh different between the years and also between turbo and non-turbo versions. Mixing and matching them MUST be done correctly. Read more about it here.

http://www.mazdatrix.com/b5.htm

sorry, shoulda been more accurate. it is a 2 1/8" socket. (i'm just so used to working with metric!)
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...t/IMGP1539.jpg

unless you have a really good bookstore, you might have to order the Haynes manual. i've never actually seen one in real life haha. also make sure you get the FSMs (Factory Service Manuals) downloaded. you don't have to print off all of them, they're thousands of pages long. just have them handy on a computer that you can check as needed. a laptop will make this much easier as you can take it into the garage with you.

the link in my sig is part of my trials and tribulations of a first timer rebuilding a rotary. some of it might help if you want to check it out.

here's another pic of the socket, and a couple of the engine stand adapter. the socket is pretty expensive, i paid $28 for mine. you can find them for a lot cheaper, but i got a Craftsman so if i break it, i can get it replaced for free.

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...t/PC210021.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...t/PC210022.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...t/PC210023.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...t/PC210024.jpg

Get one of the rebuild videos, even if you know how it goes together from the repair manuals it is 10x better seeing it done.
http://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/pr...roductid=16771
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/overhaul_video.htm
http://www.rebuildingrotaryengines.com/

Get a good set of calipers (bearings and e-shaft) and feeler gauges (side seals) for measuring clearances. Calipers aren't the ideal tool for the job but it's a hell of a lot better than guessing. You probably don't want to spend the loot on micrometers and bore mics. The other option is to go to a machine shop and ask them nicely (with a few $$) to measure parts for you.

thanks everybody for good input

so that means in this case i dont need any special expensive engine balancing or other devices. its just teardown and then puting it back togather according to specs right?
All i want to know is, if i can rebuild the engine myself with manuals, DVDs and all wrenches and tools, like you do with piston engine.
I'm asking it because i was told that you need special engine stands for balancing or some sort of precision work when rebuilding rotary.

beqa16v, a few suggestions:

1. Buy one of the rebuild videos and view it *first* before doing anything else. That will let you know what tools and other provisions you'll need for rebuilding the engine yourself.

2. Balancing. Most people will say balancing is not necessary, and a handful of people will tell you it is. If you want the engine to work and last as Mazda intended it to be, the rotating assembly should be balanced regardless if you are reusing the same parts or not. However, for the most part you should be ok without balancing as long as you follow the normal rotary rebuild guidelines (these are spelled out in the various rebuild videos).

The Rotary Aviation rebuild vid covers all the tools needed and how to measure parts for specs. It covers how to rebuild a 2nd gen NA, not sure what you have but there are only minor differences between all 3 gens. In my sig line is a link to the online FSMs. Download the one for your year and read through the engine section. It will cover removal, rebuilding and install.
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