No start and air pump fail?
 

Hi all,

I've been working on my FC S4 turbo over the past few weeks and now that its back together i cant get it to fire up.

Originally i thought it was just flooded but then i noticed that the air pump pulley is not turning when the engine tries to crank.

Has anyone ever heard of these things seizing up like this or is it likely to be something else entirely?

i took a video so you can see what its doing.

any help is appreciated as i'm new to DIY mechanics:ret:

That air pump belt is loose.
You can see the thing bulge after the engine stops,so that tell me the thing is not tight.

Thanks for the feedback misterstyx69. any chance someone could point me in the right direction for how to tighten that belt? all of the adjustments i can see are for the other belts??

there is a bolt on a bracket at the top of the WP housing that you loosen(12mm head)..just a touch.It holds the top of the air pump to the bracket.
also reach under and feel for another bolt head on a bracket attached to the WP housing that holds the other air pump bolt.(that one slides on the bracket).
Loosen that one.Pull the pump UP and it will tighten the belt.Tighten bolt.

thanks for that. ill give it ago on my next day off :nod:

By the way,I have seen seized up air pumps,so If you can,check the pulley on the pump to see if it spins when the belt is loose.
If it does not THEN you know your pump is seized.

(heh..if you wanna see some fancy engineering,take it apart and try to figure it out!..BUT honestly I just bought another one when I encountered a bad pump..heh..saves time!)

thanks for the tip. if it doesn't spin ill pull it apart to see if i can figure it out. nothing to loose right ;)

so the air pump is seized and i cant figure out how it works so i guess i need a new one:(

Well..you can't say that I didn't try to warn ya..lol!

so i removed the air pump and belt and tried to start the car again. good news is the thing cranks really easily now and it sounds better. the bad news is it will not fire up at all. there is no difference in sound between cranking with the fuel pump powered or not powered.

there is slight fuel vapors coming out of the exhaust when i crank the engine so i know the fuel is there.
I've also tried the de flood procedure but cant get it to go. what would the best thing to try next?

If you've been trying to get the car going and So FAR no Go..you can right fully expect that it IS extremely flooded.
You gotta cut fuel to the engine (EGI fuse)
Roll engine over at least 30 seconds with plugs OUT.
Shoot a good squirt of oil in the spark plug holes and roll over about 15 sec,(the oil absorbs fuel and builds compression due to it being flooded by tons of gas)
CLEAN OR NEW plugs IN.
Put plug wires back on..CORRECTLY!..EGI Fuse back in.
Try starting the car.

thanks for the reply. ill give that a go on my next day off.

fingers crossed:nod:

Just to add that IF the car was operational before the NO start thing then it should by rights want to fire up.
Now if the engine does not then check the plugs for fuel.If they are wet then just re-do the Procedure without the oil.

thanks for the tips misterstyx69. I followed your instructions and after 2 tries i got her going!!:lol:

now i have a new problem...... The idle is sitting on 2000 rpm and refuses to drop down. its like its stuck in cold start mode but i let it idle for over 20 mins and it still didnt drop below 2k??

any ideas? did i damage something on the throttle body when i had it off??

See how tight the throttle cable is going from the adjustable Nut on the cable bracket to the Throttle body.
You can adjust some idle by making the cable sit closer to the Throttle body but yet not have the cable too loose that it gets too much slack.(12mm wrenches)
Also the BAC has a screw you can adjust idle with....Don't ask me how to do that as I took all that shit off when I built my setup and just relied on the cable nut..heh!

ill give that a go tomorrow. hopefully that fixes the issue ;)

Also, make sure the fast idle cam is working properly. On the rear of the engine throttle body is a metal piston which slowly extends downward as the engine coolant is heated up. The rod presses upon the fast idle cam and in doing so the throttle plates close and thus lowering the idle speed.

OK, so the accelerator cable is loose so that's not the issue. There is a stop that could be adjusted on the back side of the throttle body that "may" lower the idle but as i didn't touch that when i pulled it all apart i'm reluctant to just go adjusting things without knowing why first.

as for the fast idle cam that Satch suggested, ill have to research this to find out exactly which part of the throttle body it is?

the saga continues......

one thing that i did find when i started looking for things that could cause my fast idle were 2 wires that are unplugged and i cant work out where they are supposed to go?!?

i have taken a photo to show you what they look like. The one on the left is coming from the exhaust but i cant see where it is supposed to plug into and the one on the right looks like its related to the emissions system in some way?

Can anyone help me out with where i should be looking to find the other ends of these??

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2d36cbb568.jpg

How many wires at each and what colors? The one on the right looks like it might be your O2 sensor if it's a single black wire with heat shielding

Just look at the relative position of the rod before starting the cold engine. After starting the car the rod will progressively push downwards upon an upside down screw. After a period of time you should be able to determine if the rod is extending or not. If the system is intact it is a must that it extends.

yeah they are both single wire and they are both black. im guessing the O2 sensor would not be required as im running a LT10 computer in her??

Thaks Satch, ill check it out when i start her up next:nod: