i have my flame suit on
 

Whats up yall, I realize the potential for getting flamed about asking this question it high and am willing to take a beating as long as there is an answer. are the rotary housings from the cosmo (20b) enterchangeable with the 13bt (s5)... well I hope it doesn't burn too much, thanks everyone.

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dont switch 20b housings with 13b. im pretty sure the ports are differnt sizes. you can make a 3 rotor out of 13b housings. but just use 13b housings of your gonna make a 2 rotor

im not an expert on the 7, but reading the RX TUNER (20 pages on 20B's) theres a guy in there with a white 10ae equiped with a 20b and his claim was he used 13b-rew housings because they are less restrictive, but those are his words, i only had my 7 for a year.

Thanks, i was asking because i think i have seen it done by RE Amemiya on a video the did for a racing fc.

i might have some pics laying around, but i'm too lazy to look.

the 20b housings are interchangable, but they (along with the cosmo 13b's) have a different exhaust sleeve in them--which makes them more restrictive.

you can swap the sleeves out with the more desireable 13b turbo sleeves and you're good to go.

daves a damned genious

nonsense. i got a cosmo, took it apart, and said hey, they're different
that's that.

flame ON!!

The S5 and S6 turbo housings are interchangeable but guitar is correct; the 20B exhaust sleeves are more restrictive than the 13B's or especially the REW's.

The exhaust sleeves are the only difference. Well that and the fact the housings say 20b on them.
You can swap sleeves, however the better route is to use new 13brew housings.
You can also use S4 and S5 housings if you want but they are not as good as the rew's

correct me if i'm wrong, but i thought the port timing was slightly different.

Guitarjunkie, how do you remove the exhaust ports btw? I was actually wondering how they're held in... I have a spare dead housing around, was thinking I'd practice pulling the exhaust sleeve... and it just does not come out.

--Gary

bdc's method is to cone the top portion of the rollpin and then pull it out with a #6 self-tapper, but i've never been able to make it work that way.

some guys just say fuck it and drill them out, but then you're stuck looking for the rollpins (oddball size)

some guys tack weld something on the top and pull them out with a hammer..

there's a bunch of ways, but once you get the rollpins out, they'll come right out--maybe a tap or two with a hammer if they're all crusty.

can be sleeve be removed without disassembling the motor?

nope. well, not unless you drill in the exact spot the rollpin is in, but it's hardened steel...VERY hard to drill through.

[QUOTE=GUITARJUNKIE28]
some guys tack weld something on the top and pull them out with a hammer..
QUOTE]

I've tried every way possible and that is the best way I have found to work. If you have access to a welder all you have to do is tack weld a bead on top of the roll pin and use a pair of vise grips to yank them out. Takes me less than ten minutes to take out all four roll pins and they can be reused. All you have to do is grind off that little bit you welded on and clean it up and back it goes in. Doesn't affect the aluminum housing hell you can touch the aluminum around the roll pin right after welding and it isn't even warm. All you are doing is basically tack welding the pin it's not like your welding a bead in.