Help. temperature rising going uphill & hard driving only
Hey guys I have a 93 rx7 with a stock sequential twin turbo chargers. Normal Driving on the road I get temperatures of 83°c - 87°c. The problem occurs only when I drive uphill or drive it hard for a couple of minutes, then temperature starts to rise. Going over 100°c. once I stop driving it hard or am no longer on the uphill. Temperature begins to drop back down to normal. I also have the Undertray and the air duct box for the intercooler on.
My FD has street port, 3 in Downpipe, megan racing aluminum radiator, greddy smic, & power FC. |
Uphill is always more load so you will run hotter.
Your cooling fans are working, So when you rest the car, or drive with less load, the car will cool down after. You could consider cooling modifications |
I don't know how good the Megan radiator is, but i would not buy it. Size is part of cooling, but efficient designs matter a lot also.
I would make sure your cooling system holds pressure and no air. If that is fine, You might want to consider a better radiator |
Originally Posted by GrossPolluter
(Post 11734348)
I don't know how good the Megan radiator is, but i would not buy it. Size is part of cooling, but efficient designs matter a lot also.
I would make sure your cooling system holds pressure and no air. If that is fine, You might want to consider a better radiator |
It got hotter after the power fc? running lean?
|
although ducting is a major part of cooling in these cars,think of it this way.
You go for a jog on a flat stretch..then Jog UPHILL..(I bet you will "feel the heat") |
Originally Posted by misterstyx69
(Post 11756173)
although ducting is a major part of cooling in these cars,think of it this way.
You go for a jog on a flat stretch..then Jog UPHILL..(I bet you will "feel the heat") |
I just ran my car at 202 on the highway with no belly pan.
Mind you,I am gonna put the Belly pan back on but the 200's are still safe to run at. Normally the car runs around 190-200.I still have to do a little ducting in the FMIC area. |
Originally Posted by misterstyx69
(Post 11756992)
I just ran my car at 202 on the highway with no belly pan.
Mind you,I am gonna put the Belly pan back on but the 200's are still safe to run at. Normally the car runs around 190-200.I still have to do a little ducting in the FMIC area. |
Originally Posted by koolguyrx7
(Post 11759448)
what would that be in celcius? My power fc reads in Celcius.
200 celcius works out to cooking a Freakin Chicken in the oven...Doritos and chicken..now I am hungry..dammit! it would be 90-95c...(90/194f and 95/203f) your 110c is 230 Farenheit |
I have an FC. NA but had this same problem. It's stock other then rb header/presilencer/2.5". I flushed my radiator, it was fine. replaced thermostat, rad cap, water pump, converted to nissan quest electric fan (although my clutch fan seemed fine). all that "band aided" the problem a bit. but did not fix it.
I would check your spark plugs (I had an insulator cracked in half and electrode farther back then it should be, only on the front rotor trailing plug) that can increase temp under load I suspect since there is more unburnt fuel. But I think another major problem would be the oil cooler being clogged. I'd check both those first. Only real difference is you have turbos so it may be apart of that but I don't see how if its only going uphill and I had the same issue NA. |
More load = more heat
If you don't want your temps going over 100, increase your cooling capacity. You've upgraded the radiator, but what have you done for oil cooling? What are your fan temps set to on your powerFC? |
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