Help FD to NA broke turbos
 

I just got this FD i knew that there were somethings wrong with it but i got it to build it up. My tubos are broken and i dnt want to put money into fixing the stock setup so i figured that i could just take the turbos off n run it NA till i finish building the new 13b that will be going in it. Yes i have search the site but everything i find is saying take everything off change the exhuast, intake n plug the water n oil lines n that is it. I have yet to find something that is alittle more detail on the process. And yes i know it will be slow but i just need it to run na normaly to get to work. Anyone thst could point me in the right direction on how to do this or what parts i might need. Thanks

You'll need to find a 13b n/a manifold, plug off the collant and oil lines, and run a different computer

Actually cheaper to find a replacement turbo

Ok thank for the info im going to sit down n do some math cuz the used turbos i have found 200 bucks up n the cars vacuum system is messed up from the last owner. So i have to get hoses n gasket. To fix everything.

the stock ECU will run ok NA. you need an FC exhaust manifold/headers, and then you need to block the oil and coolant off from the turbos.

you will be amazed at how empty the engine bay is without all the turbo nonsense. oh yeah you will need an air filter on the intake elbow too.

I saw the same thing about the ecu being able to run the engine na in another thread. I also found the fc header for 80 buck i cant find the tubos for less then 200 would it realy be cheaper to stay turbo i just dnt want to spend money that i could be putting towards the new aluminum engine. Ii also saw a set of block off plate would i need those or just pluging up the oil n water line will do it. N would eny of the vacuum line have to stay in order to run na

It wouldn't run super rich? Sorry, don't know 3rd gens that well, i'm a poor 2nd gen'er lol

if the price is right, ill buy the car from you, shoot me a pm

Sorry man car not for sale it ment to be my project

I found a fc header for 80 buck it the same as the header that raceing beat sells should that reach the cat or will i have to add a down pipe for it to reach from what i could tell it reaches

It has a map sensor / which replaced the MAF where depending on where the car is load / rpm wise it will give a certain ammount of fuel .

think of it as a graph with an X axis being RPM , And the Y axis being Vacume/boost .

even with the turbo on the car there are times when you are not in boost right , so it needs to have a map for that area .:icon_tup:

Same thing would happen with a turbo II , depending on howmuch air the MAF sensor senses it adds fuel to the motor , so if it only ever flows enough fuel to be at atmosphere that does not mean it will be rich .

Please don't ghetto-ize it. You can get a clean used set of OEM turbos here for around 200-300 bucks. If you can't afford that, then it might be a good idea to sell the FD and find an FC in nice shape.

There are TONS of expensive parts on these cars.

EDIT: 130 bucks and you don't have to rip out the rats nest. :)
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...ooler-1074000/

Makes sense, didn't think of it that way

Thank ill take a look

The tea leaves suggest this will NOT end pretty!!! :icon_no2:

I forsee Fritz getting another aborted FD within the next year or two to fix and flip :lol:

Pretty much... OP, if you can't afford $250 for a set of good condition turbos than you should REALLY consider another project car until you're financially capable of doing this right... Seriously, people spend more than that on a SINGLE decent tire (a damned tire, a KNOWN consumable)!!! And you want to cheap out on one of the FD's primary characteristics in factory form??? :scratch:

I was able to find a good set of turbo for a good price so the car will be staying turbo. N i have the money to build my car but when im putting down 6k on a new aluminum 13b for the car the last thing i want to do is waste money on something that i will be taking out of the car. That was my reasoning think what u want off it.

How will the stock ecu handle the non functioning solenoids/actuators etc? Would it not go into limp mode?

Out of curiousity, what do you intend to gain by replacing the irons with aluminum plates?

Well from what have found i will be cutting the weight almost in half by going with aluminum plates.

Well just to update i have ordered the turbo n a new downpipe n mid pipe. But i have run into another problem while getting the car ready for the new turbos and i saw that the previouse owner tryed to do the poor mans non sequential conversion. It looks like it was not done properly n some of the things that should be tied up are loose or not tied. If i wanted to do the full conversion is the only way to go is the one from fd3s.net were everything is welded or is there another way that does not involve welding.

How do they hold up to long term wear? $6k sounds like an awful waste of money just to save some weight on the keg. Especially when you have so many other issues with the car that NEED addressing!!

Well from what i have seen for example petit raceing sell the engine for about the same price. And i beleave they can both take the same beating. Now i have a seprate bugget for the other isdues that i have which is what im currently worken on do u have any info that would help.

Well im still waiting on the turbo to arrive but when they do i will be sending them out to pettit race to get machined since im going to go non sequential. Now i was looking to remove the air pump while i was in their but i read the u need a pfc due to the o2 sensor on the exhaust manifold and will cause the car to run lean and have a lumpy idle but as i have been cleaning up the engine bay i saw that the o2 sensor is not conected due to bad wireing from previous owner. The car is running lean but nothing crazy very little and the idle is fine so does this mean i can remove it with no problems.

follow the write up on rotaryressurection.com and convert to NS yourself.

This is not a car to leave stuff unconnected and try to trick the ecu into doing what you want. If you take that approach with this car, you'll blow your current motor and the new aluminum one. Do it right dude seriously or you're gonna throw away 10 grand in a hurry. My .02

Ok cool thank for the info