FC overheating, (very) temporary fix?
 

Hey everyone!

I'm new here, and am just getting into rotaries. I've got a problem that needs immediate attention and was just wondering how good of an idea this is.

I just picked up an S4 FC n/a that needs a rebuild soon. After a few days of driving, I noticed that the coolant shoots into the overflow tank. Just today the car began to get hot--luckily I shut her off without (hopefully) damaging anything. It's hard to start her again, and there isn't a ridiculous amount of white smoke or anything. However I know there is a leak in the coolant system, probably the coolant seals but it could be a few different things I know. Can't drive for more than 10 or 15 minutes before she starts to get too warm again. Now, I'm stuck about 60 km from home and don't want to have to shell out hundreds for a tow.

I'm wondering if it's a good idea to use bars leaks at this point. I had an old grand am that would need topping up every day or 2, and that wonderful double bottle with the metal flecks in it completely stopped the leak. Now, that thing wasn't overheating -- but bars claims it will stop an overheating car if the overheating is due to a leak.
Therefore, I'm wondering whether a bottle of this could potentially get me home. I've heard on this forum that it can stop white clouds from coming out the exhaust, but I'm unsure of the overheating issue.

Thanks very much for your time and I look forward to being part of the community here!

you can use it if you want, I never would, never recommend it either. The stuff is a scam, all it does is plug things internally, and stops the flow of water, and makes things worse.....especially when it comes to a rebuild, cleaning that crap sucks.

You'll save more time and money with the tow than purposely clogging the coolant system and replacing EVERYTHING that's contaminated with that crap.

I see. Well, I'm glad I checked here before I did it. I understand that I'd have to clean it out after but I didn't anticipate having to replace parts because of it. Thanks, guys! I'll bite the bullet and shell out for the tow

Little update/question here, I can't find any information on this.

When a rotary wants to overheat due to seal failure, is the overheating because it's losing coolant (which is being shot into the overflow tank) or is it overheating because of excess hot air in the system? If it's the former, I'm guessing I can use my fluid transfer pump to reroute the coolant back into the fill hole, before the car gets too hot.
Don't wanna have to shell out 400 bucks for a tow, turns out I'm a little further from home than I thought. Thanks!

If I were to make an educated guess, I would go both are the reasons why, including one you missed, usually the engine is also SUCKING the coolant in and burning it off, depending on where the break in the o-ring or iron is

either way, if you want the engine salvageable for a rebuild, shell out the 400 bones

Bar's leak is Crap.
IF you just want to get the car home and insist on driving it then you will be suffering your own consequences.
With that in mind research "liquid Glass"..Honda guys have used it with a bit of success.

BUT I am telling ya right now...you drive it..it may just make things worse.

Have you Changed the Thermostat on it yet or at least checkedd the hose clamps,etc?.Air can enter by a bad clamp..and not show leaking..then you get a hot reading.

Thanks for the replies, everyone. I ended up selling the car as is and taking a small hit because another car in better shape came up for a good price. I checked for leaks and the thermostat seemed fine, I deemed the car not worth rebuilding due to body rust. I'm glad I didn't try to drive the engine with gunk inside the rad. Thanks again!