Car not running right
 

Have a 1988 SE cant seem to get it running properly. Bought it almost 2 years ago never really drive it much. If it sits for a day or 2 wthout being touched it wont run, I gotta push start it or crank it for a about 10 seconds then try again in an hour or so, when when it starts it smoke alot. (and I mean alot) Then when it runs if I stop giving it gas the rpm will pretty much drop to zero and it stauls. No idea what it could be. Took it to mazda and they took out my fuel check valve which upped my fuel pressure but still didnt fix the problem. Tried some other thing from mazda trix then went on my fuel lines and unless it was hooked up wrong it didnt work either. Any help or suggesiton would be thanked.


Hope I get some good news.


(have same thread posted on other part of site, just trying to get some feedback)

Are the injectors leaking causing flooding?

lots of people told me it was the injectors, mazda said they pressure tested them to 50lbs. and they were fine?? so I have no clue

what cooler is the smoke? If its blue, the car is burning oil which is leaking past the oil seals. I'm betting its not likely because with no pressure on the system, there shouldn't be enough oil leaking into the combustion area to cause the car not to start after sitting for a couple of days.

If the smoke is white, (I'm betting its white) the engine is burning coolant and you have a possible coolant seal leaking coolant into the combustion area. My car did this until I rebuilt the engine. That is the only way to fix a coolant seal, you can't get to it from the outside of the motor.

If the smoke is black, its burning fuel, which means the car is running rich.

To get the car to start, go to the fuse box under the hood and pull the green 40A fuse for the fuel injection. Next, turn the key to start the car. It won't start, but it will flush out what ever liquid is in there taking up volume and preventing the proper amount of fuel from being introduced into the engine. Keep the key turned for 10 seconds. Now put the fuse back and attempt to start the car. It should start now. This is called the "unflood procedure". You may here reference to that term here on this forum.

To keep from having to do this every time you start the car, you can add some Bars Leak or Stop Leak that is designed to be used as a temp fix for leak radiators. I did this on my engine and I was able to let the car sit for a few days and it would start right up. Before I used the stop leak, I was having the same problem you are. This is only a temporary fix, although some people have mentioned that it has lasted a long time. I did it until I had the time and money to rebuild my motor. The only side effect that I noticed was that since the coolant seal was broken and coolant was allowed to get into the combustion section, the compression from the rotor was also able to travel the other way and pressurize the coolant system. This cause the coolant overflow bottle to fill up every day because the radiator pressure cap was constantly venting the extra pressure to the overflow bottle.

To check to see if you have a coolant leak, check the coolant to see if there is oil in it. Also, while the engine is running and at operating temprature, check to see if there are bubbles coming up from the coolant overflow bottle. Either of these conditions would indicate a possible coolant seal leak.

Hope that helps out. What part of Delaware you from? I grew up in New Jersey but Uncle Sam has me stationed in South Dakota.

I'm from newark, thanks for the tips, Ill try that l8r 2day let u know i it worked in a couple days, thanks again

didnt get a chance to try that yet

Anyone know of any intelligent rotary shops or mechanices around delware??