Bridge porting help
 

Hey guys im thinking about bridge porting my 13b NA, but am woundering if doing so is good for a daily driver, And what would be the best port i should get as im mainly looking for low end torque as well as top. I know that 13b's dont produce alot of low end but more the better. Also ive also heard about people making a mod to their 5/6 port so they can open or close it when they want for top end, and for low end aswell. Im woundering if anyone can tell me if theres a thread explaining how to do this and whats the pros and cons.
Im also woundering if anyone knows any good Rotary tuners in, Australia melbourne??

Weather its good or not (as far as low end goes) I'm going to do this too.

I'm planing to Bridge port and Street port just the 5th & 6th ports.

I'm also planing to manually operate the 5th & 6th port actuators by cable. (might not be official.)

Ive read a few comments on keeping the actuators, and they say it works. But Ill have to see for myself.

Do a search(es) for "bridge-porting" and other kinds of porting. You shall get a lot of info.

But (just my opinion) it seems to me that the info you get has mixed ideas and whatnot, but my way of looking at it, is you just got to figure out for yourself what the best thing to do is.
Like I've had a tough time deciding what kind of bridge port to go with, like aux. or half.
I find myself still pondering the thought.

So good luck searching, deciding, etc...

O.K. lets start here a bridge port will really only net gains at very high RPM say starting to make power at 7500,and low end tourqe is reduced,Idle is horible....if ya really want some tourqe get a turbo motor and do an engine swap

Rotory engines do not have very good intake track velocity,at lower RPM.opening auxilary ports earlier than the factory 3500rpm will reduce power.Check and see if you can get a variable dicplacement intake for a series five that should net 15hp and 10ft/lb tourqe and maintain good Idle

If ya go the bridge port route,clerance rotors,carbon apex seals,hardened staionary gears,staked hardened rotor gears,turbo oil pump,lightened rotors,race bearings and stand alone ecu so you can reach 10000RPM and make good use of the bridge ports power band at factory fuel cut 7900RPM you would just be starting to enter their power band.great for racing useless for street driving.used jspec turboII motors are cheaper by far but thats just what I think,not trying to be a dick just trying to help,try to find a series five VDI intake its way cheeper than porting or eng swap...lol