Best EGT Gauge?
Going to purchase an EGT gauge.
What is best for our cars? I will be running between 20 and 30 PSI. |
IMO, the best thing to do is get something that you can log. EGT is one thing I can never managed to watch when it matters. So, if you can log, you can go back and see what was going on.
With that said, if you're going to make the ECU change I think you are, all you'll need is a good probe and a signal conditioner and you can log everything in the ECU. You'll want an open tip probe for sure. All the EGT "kits" I've seen that come with a gauge come with a probe that has an insulated tip. Those probes are too sluggish in response to be worth anything for tuning. Therefore, you'll want a fast response, open tip probe. Probes - http://tscsensors.com/egtep0720001ssnexhau.html Inexpensive signal conditioners - http://www.3rdbrakeflasher.com/index...roducts_id=185 |
Yep...getting the P1000 from you in a couple of months.
Thanks for the info Chris! Where should I put this probe? |
"Where should I put this probe?"
approx 1.5 inches from the manifold flange at the engine port. in order to tune w an EGT it must be logged. |
Originally Posted by Howard Coleman CPR
(Post 10318941)
approx 1.5 inches from the manifold flange at the engine port. |
So it looks like I will need two probes?
Can the P1000 log both of them at once? |
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Originally Posted by RXTASY57
(Post 10322487)
So it looks like I will need two probes?
Can the P1000 log both of them at once? Yes. Sport has two inputs for for EGT. To do both channels you'll need to probes and two converters. The converters I linked you to are inexpensive for sure, but there's not much to them. I pot them in silicone and then fix them to a piece of 1/8" aluminum. After doing that they're much more robust. Never had a problem with them failing. |
Senor Ludwig, did you mean to say you "pot" them in silicone? If so, could you explain what you mean by that? I'm getting ready to install the PS1000 you sold me, and my mani is already tapped for EGT probes so I should probably look into this.
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Yes, pot. Basically, to mount them, I cut a piece of 1/8" aluminum to a piece about 2"x3" or so. Clean the aluminum of any grease and dirt and then put a large dab of silicone on the plate. Next, push the converters into the silicone, which is used to hold them in place when it dries. After the silicone sets up, I come back and carefully add more silicone around the boards to encase them without fouling the junctions where the wires attach. The end result may not be beautiful and it will still need to be mounted in an area where it's not subject to being beaten up, but it's very effective and the end result is a $40 part versus $150+.
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Nice explanation, thanks!
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Originally Posted by C. Ludwig
(Post 10323334)
The converters I linked you to are inexpensive for sure, but there's not much to them. I pot them in silicone and then fix them to a piece of 1/8" aluminum. After doing that they're much more robust. Never had a problem with them failing.
Thanks for the idea, i was wondering how i was going to mount them! Just curious how you handled the pins sticking out of the bottom of the amp? http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/1...upleamp007.jpg http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/4...upleamp003.jpg http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/346...upleamp002.jpg http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/7...upleamp010.jpg |
Originally Posted by 13B-RX3
(Post 10337942)
Thanks for the idea, i was wondering how i was going to mount them! Just curious how you handled the pins sticking out of the bottom of the amp?
Good point. Sit them in the puddle of silicone and don't push them all the way down on the aluminum. Alternately you could use plastic as you're mounting base. Lot so of other ways to insulate them. Heat shrink, silicone, etc. |
I was just curious, i took the super anal route of machining holes on the plate that the pins could protrude trough :lol:
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Word of warning!
The company that sells the line conditioner (3rd brake flasher)evidently has gone out of business! They will still accept your money tho! |
I don't know how good it is but the price looks right and the specs seem good.
http://www.exhaustgas.com/ProductDet...pID=&BasketID= |
Originally Posted by C. Ludwig
(Post 10318171)
IMO, the best thing to do is get something that you can log. EGT is one thing I can never managed to watch when it matters. So, if you can log, you can go back and see what was going on.
With that said, if you're going to make the ECU change I think you are, all you'll need is a good probe and a signal conditioner and you can log everything in the ECU. You'll want an open tip probe for sure. All the EGT "kits" I've seen that come with a gauge come with a probe that has an insulated tip. Those probes are too sluggish in response to be worth anything for tuning. Therefore, you'll want a fast response, open tip probe. Probes - Exhaust Gas Temperature EGT Probe with Compression Fitting Inexpensive signal conditioners - http://www.3rdbrakeflasher.com/index...roducts_id=185 |
I've been thinking of adding an EGT to my GSL- SEt build. I still have the stock S4 manifold, but the twin scroll has been removed. Would removing the plug I installed and mounting the probe there allow accurate data to be collected? If not has anyone had luck drilling and tapping the stock manifold in a better location, and not had it crack soon after.
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These are good. Auber Instruments. High quality, very affordable, no bullshit product. Records peak values, alarm function triggers a relay to run warning buzzer or light or whatnot. Can be reconfigured to suit different sensors. Im running one for egt and one for boost in my diesel. Was in my letter box within 7 days from USA to Australia.
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Iv used the greddy 60mm peak and hold about 1.5" away from the ports and have had good results, however i don't log
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