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RX7 GUY 09-17-07 10:17 AM

Any One No Alot About Body Work?
 
Hey guys new 7 owner here always loved them just never found one before now. I got the car really cheap but it needs a ton of work. Im going to start with the body and was wondering if any of you have any expertise with this cars body work its an 88 gxl.
Thanks for all of your help

pics will come when i get home cant get them to work here

RX7 GUY 09-19-07 10:19 PM

pics
 
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RX7 GUY 09-19-07 10:22 PM

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RX7 GUY 09-19-07 10:30 PM

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RX7 GUY 09-19-07 10:34 PM

more will come
thanks

paradoxbox 09-23-07 12:48 PM

Ouch, you werent kidding.

Luckily for you though most of that looks repairable and probably won't need replacement.

You are going to need some tools though. You are going to have to respray that car, so you're gonna want to get good at using a compressor and an lvlp or hvlp spray gun.

I recommend buying the full set of paintucation videos made by Kevin Tetz. They're very good instructional videos that deal with pretty much every body restoration project you can think of.

Pistonkilla1 09-23-07 04:03 PM

Dosent look TOO bad, you'll need to sand it all down to the metal and buff all that rust out, once you get to the metal youll see alot more damage than it shows now, as for the fenders you might want to consider getting some used ones that are in good shape since you have dents in one already and have rust, besides that it shouldnt be that hard.

Good Luke..

RX7 GUY 09-24-07 08:47 AM

I have a ton of new parts already I have the front and rear bumpers, Right fender, and the right door. Im mostly concerned with that rear right fender and the sunroof. And there some lil spots of rust here and there. The underbody pretty bad to not sure what to do with that though I’m going to be send in more pics soon I almost have the front bumper off and fenders I need to order all new screws tho and im looking for a mig welder if any on nose where to get one at a good price let me no. I’m also thinking about treating the inside of the fender while I have them off if you guys have any suggestions on what to uses for that I’m all eras.
Thanks again

Rob XX 7 09-24-07 10:57 AM

if the undercarriage is that rusted cut your losses now and look for another car.

you can get NA FCs pretty cheap that dont need anywhere near the amount of work that one needs.

Pistonkilla1 09-24-07 01:03 PM

^
+1

RotaryBred 09-27-07 01:33 PM

for the rear fender, i suggest removing the whole badly rusted area with a reciprocating saw and sanding down the not so bad parts. Spray rust inhibitor paint (rustoleum makes some) on the inside of the fender (and all those other pieces u are replacing) to stop further rusting. after you do that, use fiberglass to rebuild the area u removed. the easier thing to do would be to just find a whole new piece, but its always nice to learn a new skill.

RX7 GUY 10-02-07 01:06 PM

i would find a new one but there hard to find in IL
the underbodys not to bad i should be abal to fix it just need to weld some new meatel in there.

but right now im taking everything apart and it not looking to to bad just needs some love (does any one no what kinda meatel to use when weling in patches and the floor panals? like the gage and typ) im thinking just playing carben steel but im not sure.
i also need to fine out where i can get new screws for the fenders and bumber and wheel whell covers if anyone new?
im going to send more pics soon i just have to upload them i have some of the under body i no its looking kinda ruff but im trying to say her from going to the scrap yard thanks for all your help guys keep it comeing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

BADSVN2000 10-11-07 04:13 PM

Hey I have seen much worse projects in my time but if you have the time and money its always good to learn. I would suggest gettin the rear wheel arch cut out and replaced by either a panel beater or engineer. You could always get one cut off a wreked car and get it welded on by a panel beater but get some advise from a professional as you have a HUGE task ahead of you!!

One other place where these rust is the inner door seal on the car body, it runs up and along the top of the door opening and its thin metal. I pulled mine off when I was prepping it for paint and we had to replace it so we cut it off and replaced it with alloy which we riveted to the car and sealed.

Good luck man and keep us updated with the progress!

RX7 GUY 10-11-07 07:11 PM

hey thanks im going to give it a shot i should have more pics this after this weekend
do you no where i can get some metal to do the patch work?
i just order a mig to do the welding. what kind of primer should i use to treat the in side of the car like the inner fenders and doors ect.......
where would be the best place be to get the peace of rear fender i need?
thanks for all your help and support guys im going to need it

BADSVN2000 10-11-07 07:39 PM


Originally Posted by RX7 GUY (Post 7411433)
hey thanks im going to give it a shot i should have more pics this after this weekend
do you no where i can get some metal to do the patch work?
i just order a mig to do the welding. what kind of primer should i use to treat the in side of the car like the inner fenders and doors ect.......
where would be the best place be to get the peace of rear fender i need?
thanks for all your help and support guys im going to need it

You should be able to get some panel steel from a panel beater, they usually have old doors, bonnets etc lying around. Make sure that when you do it not to patch the steel on the outside of the guard, try and slip it in underneath then weld it so you can skim filler over the top and it will some smooth after re-shaping.
And be carefull not to weld to hot or you will just burn holes everywhere and worse set the car on fire! Once the work on the inner guard is done, get some underbody sealant (textured) and re-seal the inner guard/s. it will tidy it up and look factory then.

For paint and primer, DONT USE ENAMEL!!! Get a 2K paint (base coat, clear coat) and primer spend the money on good products and you wont be disappointed. I have just purchased Debeer paint and clear and it runs so smooth off the gun, the clear still looks wet after a month, only 2 coats and very deep!. We encountered some silcone spots and a small fry up and the best thing with this paint is that you can carefully put more layers on and it will smooth out and hide and spots!! amazing!!! Another hint, after spraying your base coat, put some of the leftover into your first pot of clear, this way if you get a chip you can buff it back easier without having to go through the clear and you will get a deeper finish.

Keep us updated!

Asterisk 10-11-07 10:38 PM

Well, are you planning to track or autocross the car at all? You COULD...

Get 17x10 Enkei RPF1's since it's a 5 lug, then cut out enough so that the rear wheels would clear everything once lowered and the suspension is compressed. After that, treat the area, rust proof it, and rivet an overfender on there, then paint! :D

For the front, you can get a whole fender, or a small plastic piece that extends the stock one and attahes. The latter also requires cutting but is cheaper and more fun to do.

Umm, for the rest, what can I say, Shine auto body parts FTW!

I think that it's awesome that you want to bring a car back from the dead! Good luck with your project, and I hope you have a lot of fun with it, learn more about these amazing cars, and build something utterly insane that will have people shak in fear as they see it at their local curcuit! :banzai:

RX7 GUY 04-29-08 03:24 PM

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hey guys here are some more pics let me no if you have any ideas to help fix this thanks!!!!


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