Annoying Buzz coming from the tach .
 

Hi , and here's my problem defined . Have a very annoying buzzing sound coming from my dash on my 86 RX-7 and it appears to be around the tach area of inst cluster .


This is all while the key is in and in on postion btw .
I started pulling fuses till it stopped and found it to be a 7.5 amp fuse that says Meters .


What can be done and what is it my tach ,a bad ground>, or a bad cluster ?


thanx for helping :confused:

Checked the fuse btw and it was good

Well, nice work on finding the fuse:) I have never read or heard about this, plus it is electrical so it might suck to figure out. Can you run the car with the fuse out? If so, which meters are not working? The whole cluster? If so the first thing I would change would be the light bulbs, because they are easy to change and who knows, maybe one os buzzing somehow. Then the only thing I can think of is swapping out the cluster.

Re: Annoying Buzz coming from the tach .
 

is this with the engine running? if not, it may be just some warning device for no oil pressure. if it's really THAT annoying, pull the cluster apart, turn the switch on so the buzzer will sound until u find it, then unplug it.

Key in on postion with engine off will reproduce our buzz , also it s not that annoying when the fuse is out , just have no tach ,volt meter, oil temp/pressure meter , and that is annoying = ) , Also i have had the cluster out , when i changed a heatercore .

The only thing i can unplug , (I saw) was two electric harness pin plugs and the speedo cable . If I find out the cluster is hosed , do I get a new one from dealer only ? or out of wrecked RX-7 ? I want to have the miles correct so I guess Mazda would spin one up for me ?

Like rxtasy3 said, is it a really loud obnoxious buzz? Have you ever heard the oil low or coolant low buzzer? This is the kind of buzz that you do not want to hear for extended periods of time, it is that annoying.

Ohh Yeah , It is that bad . You would not want to drive more than 10 mins with it buzzing = ) . I ordered a Mazda Oem T-stat because it has been overheating and thought i would start there so I wonder if after fixing that , It might stop buzzing?

No , nevermind , it buzzes when engine is off too = ) ... I wonder if an oil float sending unit on the oil pan not grounded or plug in would create this meter buzz?

I will check this out tomorrow , If it doesn't snow too bad = ) Thanx for all the help thus far guys = )


"Thank you obi wan , you are our only hope !" ^..^

Well i have noticed that when i get my rpm s up the buzzing stops , and the add coolant light goes out , some times it doesn't come on at all but the buzz does, so I think it is still related to my coolant leak within the firewall drivers side when i step on the gas

Unplug the coolant sensor on top of the radiator then turn the car to the "ON" position and wait a moment. See if the buzzing starts and if it is the same buzzing you are speaking of. If it is the same buzzing and does start when you do that, you have low coolant. You can test this by grounding that plug, that will make it shut up.

I highly suggest fixing the problem, not just disabling a pretty vital sensor/warning device. If it's overheating, or you've got a coolant leak, then the the sensor (and buzzer) is probably just telling you that you, uhhh...... NEED COOLANT. Coolant is oh-so-vital to rotaries (or any other water-cooled engine), and overheating usually results in your car's death, hence the ear-piercing, hair raising, alarm clock-esque buzzing. Think of it as your car's way of saying "I'm not ready to die yet!"


When the RPMs rise, so does the water volume. It will fill the radiator's top tank, forcing the water to the bottom of the radiator. That is why your buzzing (and light) goes away; the sensor on the radiator is submerged in water.

If you trully cannot live with the buzzer, pull the gague cluster and look on the back of it (circuit board side). Next, look at the bottom center and you'll see a little white box soldered to the board. It's neatly wedged between the plastic of the gague pod. Either desolder it or cut the traces with an x-acto knife or a dremel. Don't try to rip it out! You could damage the circuit board, rendering some or all of your gagues useless. Just make sure you cut the 4 traces going to the buzzer and not anything important.

Keep in mind that if you disable the buzzer, you're just asking for trouble. I mean, if an idiot light goes out (and they do fairly often), then you have NO way of telling if something's wrong or not (aside from overheating/lack of oil pressure). Just my two cents worth.

All better now ...
 

thanx for the help , I changed the Tstat and pressure cap , fixed the bad clamp at the heater core that at higher rpm s was letting out coolant and since then it has not spit a drop and only warning noises i get now are the power steering 5 ding chime :)
That s another thread entirly ,Lol