2JZ Setup
#2
half ass 2 or whole ass 1
iTrader: (114)
Step 1: get 30k
step 2: give a shop that 30k
step 3: give them 20k a year later
step 4: receive car
I did the jz swap in my car myself and it's "easy". Just really expensive. If you don't have a limitless budget then you will never finish the swap. You'll start it, get in too deep, then sell it. You'll burn the first 30k pretty quickly then the next 20 will be odds and ends. You can do it cheaply but with a swap like this, the whole thing will fall apart or destroy itself if you try and cut corners and pinch pennies.
step 2: give a shop that 30k
step 3: give them 20k a year later
step 4: receive car
I did the jz swap in my car myself and it's "easy". Just really expensive. If you don't have a limitless budget then you will never finish the swap. You'll start it, get in too deep, then sell it. You'll burn the first 30k pretty quickly then the next 20 will be odds and ends. You can do it cheaply but with a swap like this, the whole thing will fall apart or destroy itself if you try and cut corners and pinch pennies.
#4
half ass 2 or whole ass 1
iTrader: (114)
Not including the car. Speaking from experience. Even doing things "cheaply" will end up costing way more than it's worth. If you're gonna do it then you need to do it for yourself with no thought given to resale. It's a novelty swap 100%. It serves no other purpose than just to exist. It's pointless. I did it to make a daily out of an otherwise useless fd. It's slow, has working a.c. and ps and put 170 to wheels in cold weather. Its an expensive swap, i reccommend realistically pricing it out with parts and fab and youll see how fast it adds up. Also keep in mind I do all my own work outside of welding so I had no labor cost.
But let it be known the swap didn't cost me 30k although it easily could have if I was going for power and did a few things I did a little differently.
But let it be known the swap didn't cost me 30k although it easily could have if I was going for power and did a few things I did a little differently.
#5
Built Not Bought
iTrader: (14)
$2500 engine long block (w/stock coils and injectors good for 550hp)
$2000 engine mount kit ($500 if you make your own)
$1000 trans (or adapter) ($6k if 6spd gertrag)
$1000 clutch
$2000 ecu
$2500 turbo and manifold (BW s366 is only $700, leaves enough money for manifold and wastegate)
$1500 intercooler with custom intake piping (change to $500 if you have an intercooler kit already)
$1000 exhaust and custom downpipe
$1000 tune
$500 in random wiring (more if you order a custom harness)
That's about $16k if you are doing most of the labor yourself.
Having a shop do it all can be $30k
Going with super high end parts, can also creep it up substantially.
$2000 engine mount kit ($500 if you make your own)
$1000 trans (or adapter) ($6k if 6spd gertrag)
$1000 clutch
$2000 ecu
$2500 turbo and manifold (BW s366 is only $700, leaves enough money for manifold and wastegate)
$1500 intercooler with custom intake piping (change to $500 if you have an intercooler kit already)
$1000 exhaust and custom downpipe
$1000 tune
$500 in random wiring (more if you order a custom harness)
That's about $16k if you are doing most of the labor yourself.
Having a shop do it all can be $30k
Going with super high end parts, can also creep it up substantially.
#6
half ass 2 or whole ass 1
iTrader: (114)
I would add another 2k for odds and ends and a plug and play harness isn't going to be less than 1k. Also just refurbishing the long block will run ~500 by itself especially since you have to buy the rear sump stuff if you can't find a block with it already. Regardless, I think the point has been made that it's really expensive and pointless. It's just a novelty, there's no performance benefit. Your estimates for parts is pretty close too. Considering you do all the work yourself you could probably squeak by at 20k WITH ALL STOCK PARTS but getting a shop to do it, it's very easily 10k or more in labor. There's no way to twist it so that it's not cheaper than a whole car. Look at a ~20,000$ fd and then think about this swap. You could have a whole car for the cost of one novelty.
#7
Built Not Bought
iTrader: (14)
I agree that it's expensive, but for most that do this it's not a novelty. It's just like swapping an LS. There is a reason no one swaps 13B engines into professional drift cars.
You can make 500whp without really even pushing the engine. It's definitely attainable on a 13b but good examples are rare.
You can make 500whp without really even pushing the engine. It's definitely attainable on a 13b but good examples are rare.
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#8
half ass 2 or whole ass 1
iTrader: (114)
Excluding mad mike from your statement, I'm sure there are more reasons than just reliability why people don't use the rotary as much as other engines. It wildly expensive to get comparable power vs another powerplant in that setting. Unless your sponsors are handing out blank checks then there's no reason to use one or even an fd for that matter. Mad Mike though, he seems to be having great success with the rotary in his fleet.
regardless, anyone wanting to do a jz swap go for it. Those estimates are pretty close to actual considering you do the swap yourself, have all the tools and equipment you need, already have the car, have your own space to do the swap in and use an all stock motor. If you want to throw 20k at your fd to ditch the rotary then go for it, live your life. Just keep in mind, for the cost of the swap you could have an entire car OR a bad *** 13b/20b. If you do it, do it for yourself and no one else. That way cost and time and nothing else matters. It's a process that will make you happy and that's all that matters.
also just to add, I had all parts in hand and working on it almost everyday in my small garage it took 7 months to finish the swap. Its a lot of work getting everything in there and fit properly and working properly.
regardless, anyone wanting to do a jz swap go for it. Those estimates are pretty close to actual considering you do the swap yourself, have all the tools and equipment you need, already have the car, have your own space to do the swap in and use an all stock motor. If you want to throw 20k at your fd to ditch the rotary then go for it, live your life. Just keep in mind, for the cost of the swap you could have an entire car OR a bad *** 13b/20b. If you do it, do it for yourself and no one else. That way cost and time and nothing else matters. It's a process that will make you happy and that's all that matters.
also just to add, I had all parts in hand and working on it almost everyday in my small garage it took 7 months to finish the swap. Its a lot of work getting everything in there and fit properly and working properly.
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