1989 GTUS wont start
 

I have an 89 and have been doing a lot of work to it. A giant overhaul on the chassis. Have the engine in connected, ecu connected, and theoretically should run. Crank the engine and she wants to go. Fuel pressure is there. The maf and map sensor are connected. But my coils are producing spark. I do not think they are getting power. I have the white connectors plugged in for each pack but the single black connector on each (one connected to the pack, the other to the loom) are not connected. I think I just need spark and she should be running. Any ideas?

You mean they are not producing spark? The single Black bullet connectors are for diagnostic purposes and are supposed to be unconnected. For starters, the Black/Yellow wires connected to the coils should have voltage w/key to on. Do they?

You are correct, are not producing spark, sorry.

No, the black/yellow wire feeding into the coils do not have power when using a test light. Checked the ohms on the coil packs and they are good.

The Black/Yellow wires receive power from the Main Relay. The Main Relay is activated w/key to on. Perhaps the 15 Engine fuse in the interior fusebox is bad. If it were good then the Black/White wire in the three wire check connector near the lead coil would have voltage w/key to on. There are two Yellow wires in this check connector in addition to the B/W wire. And the Main relay is powered by the 30 amp EGI fuse so if the 15 amp Engine fuse is good and there is no voltage at the B/W wire at the check connector then you should check this EGI fuse.

Thanks, will look into that.

Wondering if the pin out on a gtus ecu is different than that of a 91 na...

As long as both are U.S. ecu's then they should be the same. And did you get the time or inclination to look over the things suggested to help diagnose what your actual problem is?

I did check and both the engine fuse and egi fuse are good. However, when checking the b/w wire as suggested (green test plug near lead coil), nothing showed with the test light with the key on.

Also, checked the main relay (next to the trailing coil) by swapping it out and no change. I can hear a click when I turn the key though so should be working as well.

I pulled out a plug and it is damp on the end and cranking the engine over a few times, my finger was damp from the open plug hole. Disconnected the fuel line and there was a good amount of pressure and fuel in there. Just in case there was a question as to whether fuel was being ran properly.

Then something is up at the Main Relay. The relay has two plugs. One has two wires while the other has four wires. Both the White/Red and White/Blue wires should have constant voltage. Do they? The White/Blue wire w/key to on is supposed to supply power to the Black/White that you checked at the check connector near the lead coil. The White/Red wire is supposed to supply voltage w/key to on to the Black/Yellow wire that is found at the coils which you already stated doesn't have voltage w/key to on. So, again, check the W/R and W/L wires for constant voltage first and report back w/your findings.

I am going to check the grounds again as I did a respray.

On the four wire connector, the R/W and W/Blue wire do not show any indication of power. The B/W wire on the two wire connector does indicate power. I also checked the B/Y lines that lead to the coils and no power.

All idiot lights work in the cabin as well.

The R/W and W/L wires receive voltage from the EGI fuse!

I see that in the FSM. Will check that fuse/connection again. Btw, are there any grounds that I should be aware of just in case that would prevent the car firing? I swapped the fuse before with another one and I know that one of the two worked for sure last May (swapped harness from my previous fc before it was totaled). Will also swap with other fuses I have spare to see if one of them work. Out of six fuses and none with a broken connection, one has to work I would hope.

The battery powers the EGI fuse which powers the two wires aforementioned, so if the EGI fuse is receiving voltage from the battery then there are no grounds involved. It should be rather simple to figure out.

I assumed that based on the wiring diagram. Just wanted to make sure because everyone talks about grounds.

I checked the fuses for continuity with multiple 30a fuses and they are good. Checked the fuse box and it is getting power without issues (test light the entire strip but main).

Taking it to a rotary specialist Saturday here in town. Only thing I can figure out as of now.

If the White wires that are to receive voltage from the EGI are not then they are obviously not connected to this fuse especially if both sides of the fuse have voltage to them.