13B REW Bridge Port w/GSL-SE 3mm Rotors
 

What do you think of this combo.

A fd motor, Half-Bridge ported with GSL-SE high compression rotors that are 3mm.

Do you think this would be a good combo, I have all the parts to make this.

O i forgot to say it is still going to be twin turbo, and will be running a MAX of 14psi but more in the 12psi range.

Thanks

dude, what's the point of doing a half-bridge with the twins? they are only going to pose a more pronounced restriction. also, why go through the hassle of downgrading to the SE rotating assembly?

this has been done before. rene here from www.rx3mist.com is running GSL-SE rotors in his 2-rotor w/ 3 mm seals. i didn't the concept why he was telling me his setup is a actually a formidable one, but lb for lb, SE rotors are very buff even though they weigh heavier than s4 and s5-s6 rotors. rene is around the 8 sec. range w/ GSL-SE rotors/rotating assembly.

give it a shot and let us all know. if you're going to keep TT are u just going to modify factory turbos?

I will be going Single later, just i am doing alot of Reliably Mods, so the Turbo is out of the price range right now

Like he said the GSL-SE Rotors are stronger, maybe a few Oz. heavier.

Pound and a half http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/rotorwgt.htm I like the gslse assembly but I would get them lightened and I wouldn't use them for the street. Rene uses them but remember he is running methanol and doesn't have to worry about compression ratios. If I were building a street motor I'd stick with the 9.0 or even go with a set of 8.5's from a S4 a lot more street friendly with pump gas. The rotor weight is not a real issue unless your looking to rev past 8 grand. Half bridge with stock twins wouldn't even try it you will be pissed off trying to tune that combo just too big of a restiction with stock turbos. Can you say huge boost surge. I have a 13brew motor and have a set of gslse rotors that I'm saving for a future build. The one thing that I do like about the gslse rotors are that the side seals are alot stronger.

Yea i looked at the weight after i posted, my bad ;)

If you ask anyone that nows me i am not a high rev'er, I try not to go past 8K EVER, I no that i will get smashed for saying that. I just dont push my car that hard.

Like you said, if i am not going to rev much past 8K then the 1 1/2 pounds will not out way the positive of running a stronger rotor and one that was built with 3mm not like the ones that are milled to 8mm.

Why would you not use GSL-SE rotors in a street driven FD?

( On a side note, i heard that sometimes the milling process to make 3mm from 2mm is'nt perfect, is this true? )

This is going to be a NON-DD and will be on the track a good amount a time per year. But i am still going to be driving it on the road some.

With my Power FC the higher compression should not be a issue, i will be installing 1300cc secondary's. Also a extra thing of safety is the water/meth that i will be running over 11psi

On the stock twins, you mean the extra exhaust flow is going to make the twins spool really quick, Like i was saying, i will be going single sooner than later, just want the motor built first.

Anymore thoughts on this setup.

its gun blow mayne, why you wanna do a frankinstein motor?

Look who is talking, 6port with turbo housing and a turbo, o yea frankinstein :buttslay: :tightass:

Bump for the evening shift

Nothing wrong with using them on the street it's just my preference to run lower compression for street driven motors since you are limited to pump gas. It just depends on your tuning if you have a spot on tune and your not running a lot of boost then you should be ok. There are lots of competent shops out there that do the milling for 3mm just do your homework and you will find who knows what they are doing. Nothing wrong with 2mm seals I've seen motors making well past 600rwhp on 2mm seals. If you have a bridge port motor and using the stock twins you will choke the motor up and get what's called boost creep. Which simply means that you can't safely control boost pressure and this causes the boost pressure to "spike" rise really quickly and you will end up in a lean condition and end up detonating and in turn blowing up your motor. You have to match things up for everything to work correctly. Hope this helps you out a little. http://www.rx7.com/store/rx7/fdengine_internals.html these guys know how to mill your rotors properly also search for CLR Motorsports on this forum they can do the milling also or give them a call (305) 235 3696 owners name is Carlos.

Exactly! The strength differences that you will get from using the SE rotors will not matter much on the street if the car is being tuned right. The stock REW rotors will be more than adequate. The apex seal size is also a moot point on the street because a poor tune will kill 3 mm seals just as dead as 2 mm. Then there is also the question compatibility between the SE rotors and REW housings ... won't touch that here, but ...

I'm not saying not to use the SE rotors, but what I am saying is you could probably spend resources (money, time, whatever) on other issues.

^ good to see you on and saying something with sense, old man. ;)

OK you can close this one, i after alot of thinking i will stick with the REW Rotors, But i am selling the se one right now.