well heres the situation..i told this story once but yea...i asked a different question ..well i ran my car hard...switched right at redline all through the gears untill i got to 4th gear almost by redline..i i forgot how fast i was going but it was well over 100..any ways i ran my car three times like that...then at the end of the 3 race..i realize my temp guage was up more then half way ..so i stop racing..drove to my freinds house and let it sit there while the engine still on ..i let it cool down till normal temp and cut it off ...then 15 minutes later i turned it bakc on...gave it a slight rev to 3 k let it drop back to idle and wtf...it start shaking violently ...so i turned it off.try to start it didnt start ..so we push started it ..it started right up..i drove it home..with very litlle power the car didnt want to go...so i got it home...i didnt sleep for the rest of the night wondering why it didnt do that at the race why it happened when i gave it a rev....i didnt hear a pop or anything...so i just didnt believe it..checked all vacuum hoses eveything was good..so i did a compression test ..it the front top spark plug whole has 70-75 and the rear top has 0..can you guys tell me why it blew after the race ..i dont get ..thanks ...

 

I don't have any concrete answers, but overheating like you said might be the culprit.

on an s4, up more than half-way on the temp gauge is a serious problem.

 

from what ive heard, apex seals are largely affected by heat.

 

You could've *cracked* a seal during the race, but it decided to 'let go' afterwards when you started your car... That's what I would assume based upon what you told up. However, you should give us a little more background--like, what are your mods?

 

Half way on the S4 gauge is about 200' F. I've got an aftermarket water temperature gauge and my stock gauge works as well. On my S4, here's how it breaks down.

1/4 = 180
1/2 = 200-ish
2/3 to 3/4 = 225 (the hottest I ever got it)

(It should be noted the 225 temp was on a long, steep hill climb in 100'+ ambient temps.)

 

my mods were full racing beat turbo back,FCD,walbro fuel pump,cheap cone filter,mk1 short shift,and all around ksport shocks and strut..thanks gusy

 

oh yea my miliage was pretty high 114k ..i guess thats another reason why it went =(

 

Another FCD + Full exhaust story

 

Half way on my 1987 Turbo II is equal to over 230F on my SPI Motorsport electrical water temp gauge.
How did you verify actual temps?


-Ted

 

Yep, I agree... I see almost the same (225F) at halfway up on my Autometer electric.

 

All this talk about temprature what is a bad temp for a s5 and s5 turbo?

 

S5 temp gauges have 3 positions, cold, half way, and blown motor. They are not worth crap for monitoring temp.

 

temp has little to do with it, i would like to know the boost you were running.

 

so if your halfway and under your fine?

 

in third and fourth gear you probably overboosted it causing your engine to let go. Mine did the exact same thing. did a third gear pull boost went way to high, so then went to my friends house and let it cool down, then drove home and the next morning when I went to drive it to my Girl friends house it just totally let go.

 

what bout an s4? it's an 86 gxl n/a and when i'm drivin it sits halfway up, like all the time. even when i get on it hard, it'll sit there at halfway, maybe just a touch over

 

Search dude...it's been covered many times before.
Try searching for "water oil temp".


-Ted

 

As metal heats up, it expands. This for the most part will help in keeping all of your seals in place. Once it cools down again, things will tend to settle, and have more freedom of movement. Not that everything is "moving" too much, but it might have given enough play to let a cracked seal finally give up the ghost.

New engine time. Good luck.

 

That sounds like the exacty same thing that happened to me, except it was a blown coolant seal... Ran it hard at the track for a few runs and the temps were up. Left it to sit and came back, it ran for about 5 mins then it died and wouldn't start again. Never did a comp. check but it was very obvious that it was a coolant seal (coolant was black).

Sorry man, i'm on my 3rd engine in <3 years. Best of luck.

 

Dakota Digital Electric Water Temperature Gauge. The sender is installed in the thermostat neck, above the t-stat. 1987 NA base model, AC removed, Koyo S4 Rad, Underbody pannel installed, OEM t-stat (replaced 8/25/05). I never checked the calibration on the DD Temp Gauge, but it hovers around 180-190 in normal driving (t-stat closed) and reads 75-170 before t-stat opens.

Sender Link Gauge Link

I know the sender is supposed to be installed in the water pump housing, but I really didn't want to tear it apart to install the temp sender. (I will however if I do work on the water pump.) Also I don't pay that close of attention to the stock gauge since it's slow to respond and vauge at best.

I don't doubt you guys, I'm just posting my experience.

 

My only experience with digital (water temp) gauges is with Cyberdyne.
Brand new they were okay, but the senders quickly lost accuracy over time.

Not knocking your experience - I was just curious what you were using.


-Ted

 

i would think its fine as it is. as long as your thermostat works, your coolant will be about the same temperature, and you'll still be able to see an increase in temperature.

 

usually my boost guage reads 10 psi....not sure bout the boost creep i can feel it some times...but yea ...KNONFS ..can you tell me what i did wrong so i can prevent it from happening again sry guys im noob at this lol

 

what eles should i add to prevent it from happening again..im getting it street ported and rebuild with 3mm seals ..so yea..can you guys tell me what would i need so i can get it ..and install it after i get it street ported and rebuild thanks guys!!

 

the fuel cut is there for a reason, if your car sees too much boost, it will blow up. plain and simple. when you hit too much boost, it cuts fuel so you stop hitting so much boost. if you have a fuel cut defenser, you go even further into dangerously high boost levels. in order to compensate you need more fuel via a better fuel pump, bigger injectors, and some sort of tuning.