RX7Club.com - Mazda RX7 Forum - New Member RX-7 Technical

trying to figure out my boost issues please be kind

Etienne — Thu, 21 May 2026 15:29:21 GMT

RX7 FD 1995 RHD

if you were running non sequential, and only made 2 PSI max under full load, and the car was bogging at around 3000 rpm trying to build boost ( feels like my cars choking whenever i hit 3000 rpm) what would be your first thing you would check? Sometimes, rarely, the car will allow me to acelerate no problem up to redline but most of the time the car is suffering very bad boost surge/ severe bogging. i am using a 3 port mac solenoid to control boost and its really frustrating not having the car at its full power any advice is gratefully appreciated and please dont be rude

i also did a test of only pulling vaccum from my actuator and got around 6 psi but still not 10 or 11. so i just want some advice of what to check, i also have a high flow catylitic converter and full megaphone exhaust. The car sat for a few years a bit ago, could this be a problem with m fuel system? has anyone else had this issue and solved it?

Microtech fueling nightmare

Challuby — Mon, 18 May 2026 03:33:01 GMT

I have recently bought a 88 fc turbo with an ancient Microtech lt8s that was installed very poorly. I had it running about 3 weeks ago then fixed some injector wiring that shorted, since then, only one injector seems to fire. I have spark, I have fuel to the rail but only the rear secondary fires.
In test mode, only the rear secondary fires. But if I turn ignition off and back on again while the ECU is still in test mode, then all four injectors begin to fire. Put the ECU out of test mode, plugged in extra cas that I had and spun it with key on and can still only hear one of the injectors firing but spark seems to be there.

Someone in the past had done some dodgy cas wiring but I can't seem to figure out why that would affect how it fires the injectors in test mode only after "key off then key on".
I know in micro text wiring diagram it says to why are the injector straight to the battery but it looks like someone wired it to the stock harness location. Could this be related to the problem? Furthermore, I have brand new primaries since the injector had shorted, they aren't seized.
Any help would be appreciated

I can send maps on the microtech or any pictures if need be

13B GSL-SE housing to 12A - Thermal reactor?

G�čko — Wed, 13 May 2026 15:42:44 GMT

I�ve read about unavailability of 12A housings. Lots of you did or heard about milling 13B GSL-SE to 12A width and water seal grooves cut in. Did anybody modify them for 79-80 thermal reactor? My aim is to keep the car as stock as possible (out of some safety mods as oil p/t gauges etc..) Is in the housing enough "meat" in the bottom part for drilling the hole for TR air supply without compromising consistency of the walls? I know most of you would reccommend me throw away the TR, but aim is historical fidelity, reliability, low noise.. Thank you in advance!

Oil pressure / temp gauge for SA

G�čko — Wed, 06 May 2026 20:40:29 GMT

Regarding poor oil parameters signalization in SA I�m thinking about an improvement. As 1st Gen SA has only oil level sensor in the oil sump I suggest it would be good idea to have also a pressure and maybe temperature oil gauge. In my center console there is a tray under the radio and it should be nice, not disturbing place for gauges. As there is not much room in the shelf I looked for small gauges and I found 1,5" diameter Autometer 2391 gauges. I would probably use only pressure, temp and make new direct fit console. Did anybody do similar upgrade for the SA? How reliable are Autometer gauges? Any other 1,5" suitable option? Bar and �C prefered.. Thank you in advance.

5th and 6th Port Actuator Travel

GoldVelour — Sun, 03 May 2026 18:14:26 GMT

Hello,

I been cruising all the forums without any luck. I have a S4 engine out of the car. The LIM is removed from the engine, with the sleeves, rods, and actuators all cleaned. I have a couple of questions regarding the 5th 6th port Actuator system:

a) with 3 PSI applied the Actuators plunge inward. Is this correct? I wonder if the previous owner installed S5 actuators on this S4 engine.

b) under 3 PSI applied the the Actuators plunge fully in. But when pressure is released they do not travel back to the resting stop - approximlely 3/8" short of the resting stop. I am thinking weak springs in the Actuators, I am wondering if anyone in the community has any tricks on how to get full motion (too bad these Actuators don't come apart).

Thanks all!

Buzzer that isnt the coolant buzzer

Sloshymold — Sun, 03 May 2026 02:10:44 GMT

So I bought an '87 FC GXL a while back, and I've been working on getting it drivable. It does drive now, but the "add coolant" buzzer was going off, and the light on the dash was on. I sorted that out a mouse chewed the wire. The light on the dash is gone, and the buzzer has changed. It was very annoying before, but now it's pretty polite, not nearly as loud, and there are no lights on the dashboard. I was wondering what would be a good place to start looking.

FC Auto to Manual wiring

TywinOf88 — Sat, 02 May 2026 23:44:32 GMT

Hi everyone, I am nearing the finish of a long overhaul with my 1988 FC. This car started life as an automatic GXL. I have looked at both the write-ups here as well as on other sites and I'm just looking to confirm a few things.

-On the writeup here it mentions a "3 prong white connector" but the only connector I have near this area is a 4 pin connector. (Pictured below)

-Outside of that, the normal spade plug for the starter solenoid remains unchanged?

As I understand it, the thick gauge black with yellow wire in this plug needs to be connected to thick black with red wire? Then, the other two wires in the plug (Red/Green) go to the reverse lights on the transmission?

Just trying to get everything ironed out to ensure I get it fired up on the first crank.