WANT 900+RWHP on an FD???
 

Catchy title eh?? ;) lol

Anyways, I'm currently getting a 20B installed....I was going to go with the single T100 setup but why go T100 when you have a Cosmo right?
So I got the rig turbo....some people call it Jesus some people call it whatever.....can we get a name for this thing? ;) But I am sure you guys know what I'm talking about....itz a bit bigger than a T100......I'd state the other mods but you guys are not HONDA BOYZ (EWWW HONDA) ;), I'm sure you all know what has to be done to the Rex in any type of motor upgrade.......just wanted to know....I've been told Haltech can't or doesn't work with a 3ROTOR.....what is the word on that? If not I'm going to have to go with Electromotive......how is that? And what are suggestions? The fun part is I get to blow out flames all day long and go vroom vroom everytime I see a Honda ;) ;) And can I expect 900+RWHP???

Neither Haltech, MoTeC nor Autronic can do split trailing on a 3 rotor, well not with any of the ecu's publically available at this point in time (in the very near future haltech's ecu will be able to do it)

We have had this discussion before and you actually get more HP by firing both plugs at the same time

micro tech has one made just for the 3 rotor, but I have heard that's its sucks.

But....
 

But what about Electromotive??????

yeah Micro tech - the name says it all, Small Amount of Technology.......

I've been looking ino a 20b also. What I was going to do is usa a Haltech and Use a MSD 6562 Multichannel retard contol(http://www.msdignition.com/n2000b.htm ) , Set up the Haltech as a 6 cyl. and put the retard box on the trailing coils. I downloaded the trial software for the box and you can set a stardard retard by RPM and also a boost retard.. The only thing you might need to use it witha dis-4, I havn't talked to a MSD tech yet..

Electromotive can handle a 3 rotor - thats what MARIAH used on their 10AE Conversion and what I have seen on another 20b Vert. :cool:

Also AEM's new unit (Race Version) will handle 20b's

Electromotive can handle a 3 rotor - thats what MARIAH used on their 10AE Conversion and what I have seen on another 20b Vert. :cool:

Haltech/MoTeC/Autronic can all handle a 3 rotor, just you cant have split trailing timing, as we all agreed, you get more HP by firing both plugs at once, it is only if you need to pass emissions that this is a problem

E6k + IG5 should control the ignition.
Then all you should need is a couple of MSD DIS boxes instead of 6 individual igniters.Have anyone tried using the factory 20b igniter?


crispeed
87TII
9.20@150mph

who's installing the 20b for you?

I am not sure where you came up with that information, but it is not accurate. If you do not have split you have a much greater chance of detonation, that's why those trailing plugs are there. I can tell you, from experience, there is power in proper split.

Jason.

It's funny you brought this up because I was speaking to a couple of other people that are making well over 500RWHp and we all agreed that there is more power with a split!:)

crispeed
87TII
9.20@150mph

Peter - who we all know has the ability and know how to make horrendous power said that in a discussion that came up long ago on here, he said it increases the EGT's but it makes more power, yes it does increase the chances of detonation if you can guranteee that the traling will never fire before the leading plug.

Speaking of RICE has anyone seen him round lately?

You can talk to Pettit Racing they play with 20b's day in and day out i know they can tell you your answer. The 20b in there Banzi car is 550hp ive been in that car its sweet
www.pettitracing.com

I will confirm this statement.

It is a scientifically proven FACT that there is a greater, faster, longer pressure rise in the combustion chamber when firing plugs TOGETHER.
This means more power....Unless I am missing something ?

It is not as safe, as running with a split. But it does make more power in my experience.

It may not be accurate in your book, but is accurate (for n/a and turbo) in RE Amaeya's (wrong spelling I know), Racing Beats, Mazdaspeed's do you want me to go on ?

Untill you put a pressure sensor and log chamber pressure yourself, I would not go around saying that it is "not accurate" :)

I have noticed higher average BMEP's and higher PMEP's with both firing together with a lowering of the BSFC all this together = more power. But yes there is less room for error.

High Boost and Split Timing.
 

RICE, does this apply to systems running nitrous oxide (75-100HP)and over 25 psi? If so what should the total timing be under these conditions (running no split) providing all other factors are within allowable ranges, such as air temp, fuel, etc...

Normally under these conditions I would run 12-16 degrees with the trailing firing at 0 degrees. Would this much advance, running the plugs at the same timing, be too much?

Looking for more power, but just a little :chicken:

Interesting waynespeed, why do you run that timing? Did you actually try that out and did it make any improvements?

Looking for some knowledge.....

Welcome to the forum!!

Most of the timing maps came from a combination of old school setups and from my very first setup.

My very first setup was with a Electromotive tech II, the program was written by Lance Nist of Pantera Specialties. At the time no one in the NYC area was able to help me with the setup so I had to learn everthing from asking questions to the old school guys and trial and error. The maximum timing on Lance's program was 14 degrees. The car felt extremely good as this was a first gen with a twin turbo setup, since then I've never strayed too far from 14 at max boost.