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haltech tuning
Can anyone prescribe me anything for these Haltech headaches?
I loaded up Gorodon's old single turbo map (1600 secondaries) so I could start somewhere safe as I began to attempt to tune the car. On my first couple of datalogged runs The A/F ratio was so low that I've come to the conclusion that there must be something seriously wrong. At idle it reads about 750 mV. Under WOT, it drops to the 500mV range. There are two areas where the car sputters. At those points, the A/F (mV)drops in to the single digits. It reads like 4 mV. What's that all about? The duty cycle is around 40% and under the sputters, it drops into the teens. Now I'm afraid to even drive the car under any load. I would think that the map should be a little rich for my car since I'm still on non seq stock turbos. I guess I'm just looking for ideas or things to check. BTW, I had a dyno/tuning session scheduled this past week but it was postponed due to KD moving locations this week. I'm just impatient now and want to get the car running decent on my own so not as much tuning isa needed when I get it on the dyno. [This message has been edited by Silver7 (edited May 23, 2001).] |
Is the Haltech reading the stock O2 sensor readings? Maybe the stock O2 is whacked.
Also, being that rich is not that surprising because 1600's tuned for a single turbo car will be AMAZINGLY rich on your car. I say get it running and then start taking out percentages and check where you are each time. It is probably just dumping fuel in there. ------------------ AOL = sniffigitawhump ICQ is up at the top. E-mail me moreiraeric@usa.net My car http://www.rx7turbo.com/jefcosmosig.jpg This sig has been brought to you by Jef Card. |
I expected it to be a little rich but no too rich. The car runs fine cruising and idling. It's under boost condistions that it starts to act funny. Why do you think I'm rich? The O2 sensor worked fine all this time. I don't see why it would suddenly go out of whack.
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Well, if you are running rich enough it could die but where is it hesitating? Right at the vacuum to boost transition? Can you boost once you get past the hesitation? I bet the staging fuel bars are too far off and it is messing up the vacuum to boost transition and making it hesitate.
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Yes, it is at the transition. It does boost a little then sputters at about 5K rpms. It reads very lean all the way through though.
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If it is only hesitating at the transition than go into the maps at the rpm ranges where it does it, all if necessary, and bring the bar after the staging line up a few notches and see if that helps. Keep bringing it up until the hesitation is gone. Then, if it is waaay out of wack, like a huge bar after staging try lowering the bar bfore staging to bring them both closer together. Then smooth things out and see how it works.
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After work today here's what I did:
1)filled up the tank and added premix 2)wired in my tachometer 3)wired in my O2 gauge I took the car out for a spin so I could read the O2 gauge and everything worked perferctly. There was a very slight hesitation at transition but it revved out perfectly. The O2 reading were exactly where I wanted them. (around .91 V) Don't ask me why these things made the car run better but it did. Now for some fine tuning... Josh |
During those .91 runs, the boost was only at about 7-8 PSI. As I turned up the boost, the reading dropped to the low .8s. At 13 psi it was sitting around .83. I added some more fuel and the reading increased some, but not where I am confortable yet. My M2 ecu never really dropped below .89, even with a midpipe. I would like to keep my A/F numbers around there for now.
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Originally posted by Silver7: 1)filled up the tank and added premix |
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