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i need a greddy thing for the Throttle body... or make one.
then it will run. All these pics are old mock up ones Attachment 716291 Attachment 716292 And my Awesome Derale oil cooler Attachment 716293 |
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I wish this thread was around a couple of months ago. I got it figured out anyway.
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^^ Nice custom setup. Have you actually used it yet? What kind of temps are you seeing?
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Originally Posted by Zenki FC3S
(Post 10492176)
Gotta atomize it for sure
Im gonna run injector dynamics 1000cc thru the haltech for water/ methanol Then u can have a map for water temp air temp boost pressure and tps. http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/waterinjection.html Trigger the pump with a hobbs switch or something. |
Originally Posted by T2mike222
(Post 10496494)
I wish this thread was around a couple of months ago. I got it figured out anyway.
http://i548.photobucket.com/albums/i...2/fb1de5a7.jpg Hope you did not solid mount your rad... it looks like it in those pics. |
Sunburn: I'm glad it's not MY car. Lol. I'd beat someone with a sway bar if they did me like that and i paid for it.....
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whats wrong with solid mount?
mine's bolted, with insulating foam stripping on the support bar. it's definitely not moving at all. if you're referring to permanently mounting it to the chassis, then yea eff that. |
Yea but that looks aluminum...
You cant weld that to the chassis |
Sunburn, your probably right should be mounted on rubber or something. But it was mounted solid all of last season with no issues. but if it cracks and starts to leak ill send you a check for your .02. lucky for me nopistons i built it my self so i
dont have to beat anyone. Sorry for sharing my shitty design. |
Originally Posted by T2mike222
(Post 10512356)
Sunburn, your probably right should be mounted on rubber or something. But it was mounted solid all of last season with no issues. but if it cracks and starts to leak ill send you a check for your .02. lucky for me nopistons i built it my self so i
dont have to beat anyone. Sorry for sharing my shitty design. |
Originally Posted by Zenki FC3S
(Post 10512120)
You cant weld that to the chassis
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Originally Posted by red92vr4buckey
(Post 10512967)
thats where i was going with it.
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Originally Posted by sunburn
(Post 10513111)
Where I was going is that if you solid mount it (not weld) to the chassis there is no give in it when the chassis flexes... you run the risk of cracking the core from it being twisted and pulled on.
my setup is sick. super pumped with how it turned out. i used a smaller width core, and tied it in to the chassis with thin gauge aluminum to act as ducting solely instead of making some cage deal to hold it in place to the chassis. in all honesty though if he had a front support bar like mine tied into the frame rails, with the engine bay being stitched theres only about a foot of frame rail to flex between the subframe, and that support bar. all of which is before the suspension so it's not moving at all... unless it piles and smashes everything... at that point, well we all know shit would need replaced. even Ryan's setup has a piece of DOM securing the frame rails. if you've ever cut up an FC you'll know how thick the front frame rails are. it's nothing like a swiss cheese 240. |
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Damn my shit is collecting dust. Almost done tho. Just need another U bend
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yo hook it up with the thread style for the -10's going into the front cover, and rear iron. i tried taking banjo bolts in to compare thread sizing but nothing seems to match up. really not trying to rethread anything..
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Ditto
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Originally Posted by red92vr4buckey
(Post 10543125)
yo hook it up with the thread style for the -10's going into the front cover, and rear iron. i tried taking banjo bolts in to compare thread sizing but nothing seems to match up. really not trying to rethread anything..
-8 AN To 18mm-1.5 adapter 9919EFKERL -8 AN To 16mm-1.5 adapter 9919EFJERL |
Originally Posted by T2mike222
(Post 10512356)
Sunburn, your probably right should be mounted on rubber or something. But it was mounted solid all of last season with no issues. but if it cracks and starts to leak ill send you a check for your .02. lucky for me nopistons i built it my self so i
dont have to beat anyone. Sorry for sharing my shitty design. it's not a bad design. I'd just be afraid of cracking/breaking something with it mounted in such a stiff manner. You dont want your rad to move but you dont want it to function as a support structure either. Kinda looks like what it's doing unless you have a strut tower bar or something. Our chassis flex ALOT. (maybe more lengthwise than side to side though) I can't see the whole car, just your radiator. Wasn't trying to make you cry or anything.... |
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My oil cooler is at a weird angle. Gotta make a under tray that ties into a bash bar. A bender would help get my shit crackin...
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Getting there. Some soap and water. Maybe a lil poilsh...
Damn I need to finish this shit Attachment 716310 Attachment 716311 |
looks good but why would you choose to mount the oil cooler there and not in the FD OEM location(s)?
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-8 ss braided line is like $7 a foot. But yea weird spot
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Your car is coming along for sure! ^
my car fell off the jack trying to load it onto the trailer. so i'm in the middle of redoing my radiator core. the core always sucked, so it's not a big deal justt annoying. photos will come soon. thankfully it didnt kill my $400 fan. im running a 30 row oil cooler on the front left. (going to dual setup soon just -an's are crazy to go dual initially) |
Originally Posted by Zenki FC3S
(Post 10558290)
-8 ss braided line is like $7 a foot. But yea weird spot
Racing beat oil cooler lines are -10. that's what i use. |
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