Damn it, where's the damn pics!?

Just waiting for Abercrombie to send me my parts. :( Then I can finally have pictures.

So in the mean time, I just painted everything sparkly dookie-ass brown.
Attachment 661211

Got my tie Abercrombie TR ends/rack spacers in today. Quality is pretty nice. The only thing is I think I got sent the wrong tie rod ends, they're not extendos. They're the same length as my supernows.

Attachment 661063

those are def cut way too short. check my build thread

Thats what I was thinking. Sucks, because it took a week to arrive when that shit was "2 day" shipping. A week is an eternity when your car is on jack stands. Guess I gotta send them joints back.

build is dope so far. gives me inspiration for my vert

I guess they didn't even send me tie rod ends for an FC because that shit was way to big for the knuckle.
Attachment 661013
Attachment 661014

I got my swift springs on in the front. Apparently I had to grind collars and shit for them to fit (said PBM) but they fit perfectly fine. Cant wait to feel the ride on them mugs.
Attachment 661015

Shit my tie rod ends look the same I hope they aren't wrong too I haven't actually fit them in the knuckle yet

How much
We're those swifts

Yeah, the other thing is they seem super loose at the ball compared to the super nows.

I paid a little less than $300 for all 4 swifts.

If the bore size is the same between the 2, then just swap the stud over that is correctly tapered. What are they 1/2" bore right?

For my Abercrombie rod ends I had to drill out the hole in the knuckle just a tad bit. I think it's because they're actually the ones he designed for an s13 and their hole is a little bit bigger. Besides that they felt fine, heim joint was stiff as a board.

Which springs did you go with? They look the same length so I'm assuming you did it for the rates?

looks like a 7 degree taper as well. you could purchase or borrow that bit and have the correct taper for the stud...

I received an email from them saying that I need to take 1.5" bit and run it through the knuckle to make them fit.
And I got the "short" version of tie rod ends I guess because I ordered it with rack spacers.

Pretty loose butthole.
Tie Rod Test video

im a little pissed cuz i wasnt told anything either about having to drill it out. are you supposed to use a straight bit? im having a hard time finding tapered ones

Comic - I just went with 7" springs and 16/14k rates.

Premium - Yeah, im not down to drill into the knuckle. It didn't say any of that on the site. He said just to use a 1.5" drill bit, didn't specify. You got his knuckles also, right? If so, my guess would be he already tapered it for you?

16/14 sweet jesus

i bought his entire kit but the knuckle doesnt seem like it was drilled. right now the stuffs in 2 different places so ill check it out and report back

hes running gp kit, 18's, and low static ride height. if you wanna tuck rim and not rub under compression, ya gotta get those high spring rates.

and the tapered bit is gonna run you $50-100.... i dont see the point of running a tapered stud if the spindle isnt correctly tapered. better off running a machined stud that is 12mm or 1/2" like the stock fc one.

oh well drill that shit and lock washer

take the studs out of the supernows and throw them in the other ones.

alright you got me curious so i checked my shit out. it looks like he drilled them when they were being modded.

Attachment 660884

so i would say either drill out your knuckle to a 9/16 hole or see if you can just swap the stud from the supernow ones in

Ah, thats what I figured. I got my supernows to work so im just keeping those, plus these were a little too loose for my liking. And if I did drill out the knuckle, that'd kind of only leave me with being able to run abercrombie rod ends. I like variety.

Them knuckles look flossy as fuck though.

Traded the Advans for some 9j ones. Got everything sorted out for the most part.

Attachment 660782
Attachment 660783

Holy bejeezus camber.


When I got mine, I just took like a 3/8" drill bit and used it to shave a little off the sides of the hole, then when I put the tie rod end in there it was a tight fit, so I just used a lock washer and loctite and it's tight as a 12 year old's butthole. Haven't had a problem since and it's seen a few events and a ton of street action.

I'm useing oem s13 tie rod ends on my knucles and they fit just fine.
Since his rod ends are custom he probably made them thicker so they wouldnt flex from improper instaltion..

^ true that, forgot that I test fit some s13 tie rod ends once and they fit fine.

Prob the only picture im taking before this mug is even done.
http://25.media.tumblr.com/3a89f5acd...jtdlo1_500.jpg

And some more progress.

After forever of having my car lowered, I never adjusted the rear toe. No wonder my car drove like a steamy bag of moist dong.

Got to adjusting this POS. Maxed that joint out like a mod'fuk.
Attachment 660593

Collarz are dumb. Then finally got to do my rear springs on the coils. Shit took like 10 minutes each side. Didn't have to pull the whole coil off. *SHWING*
Attachment 660594

And lastly, lowered the shit out of the front and ran into this problem. Gunna have to do some custom shit on this shit now.
Attachment 660595

I ran into that months ago.. And then a sledge hammer ran into it.

Edit: The sledgehammer's name is Stanley.

you need some toe rods son

ride heights looking on point

Ride height will still be a bit lower than what its at. ^ ^

We finally got all of our stuff situated at our new shop. Time to do some god damn work to this thing.
Attachment 659506

It was a productive day. Homies working on their miatas while I begin to put the new clutch in.
Attachment 659507

Ohhhhh.. I thought the title of the thread meant it would take a long time to build, not that you actually wanted to drift slowly. Lookin good!

^ lol

lol.

A. What do you hammered people do about this? Axle smackin diff shit. Risers?
Attachment 659494

B. Anyone have any suggestions on how to not tear through axle boots "often"?

I flipped those mounts but other then that you can get the pbm diff risers

I have a major groove scraped into both diff mounts haha.

And a STACK of destroyed axles. I can NOT get the boots to stop ripping.

Awesome progress man, this thing is nuts!

Yo Angel!

Did the rear overs sit the fender lip any lower down? Like on s13's when they rock overs, they can fuckin tuck 15's and shit?? I hope you understand that. Not sure how to word it haha

yes overfenders make you look lower haha

Not shine overs. :(

Actually wondering because I tuck rim, and it constantly smacks the rear fender lip. Wouldn't want to spend $300 on overs, and then destroy them hahaha

um you know you cut the stock fender junk out right? also you can install overfenders so they are lower.

Um. Yeah, I know that they don't just sit on the outside, and cause a giant wheel gap.

I plan to install them, and space my wheels out accordingly. NOT raising my car, so the wheel lip, and fender will basically be at the same point as they were before... Where they were slamming into eachother constantly. Don't want to bust up $300-500 over fenders for the sake of ride height.

But I do understand why you said that. There seem to be a lot of people that don't understand simple things around here.(me being one of them in some ways)

oh btw that rubbing issue of yours got me curious so i looked at my axles and i seem to have about an inch of clearance between it and the crown mount but mine isnt flipped like yours so if you put it on with the spike things facing down it may give you some room.

in the end its just rubber so its just rubber so its not a big deal if it rubs a little

Yeah fuck it. Im use to no rubber anyway.

A raw dog and a ludacris reference. You win points with me sir

So what's the correct way to install the pbm diff mount? I put the larger side on the bottom of the diff holding it up but I see others doing vise versa?

flange goes on bottom correct. see my thread for pics

BeachFC.