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The OFFICIAL drift setup thread
9 Attachment(s)
Ok, so i'm starting this thread to help out my fellow Rx7 drifter brethren setup their cars and/or improve their drifting/driving style... if you have a question about your setup, build, driving style, technique post here!!
now keep in mind the better your are at being specific with your question the better chance i have for answering your question. also, if others have input on questions, please feel free to post your experiences/input! Let me start in posting my setup... Suspension: DG-5 coilovers with 8kg front and 6kg rear springs GP sports super angle kit HotLine Spindle modification with special camber modification (total steering angle is 55 degree's and total camber is 4.5deg neg battle version toe links in the rear mazdaspeed camber adjusters mazdaspeed center camber adjuster mazdaspeed dtts eliminator kit energy suspension bushing kit 0 toe front 3/8 toe in rear Brakes: stock!!! SS brake lines pbr pads hand brake--- STOCK!! Engine: street port s5 13b-t 1000cc pri and sec inj Haltech e8 Borg Warner s300 series turbo v-mount setrab 635 dual oil coolers aeromotive tsunami fuel pump/aeromotive fpr HotLine fuel surge tank all -6 fuel lines Drivetrain: OS-Giken twin disc clutch OS-Giken super lock lsd stock t2 trans/driveshaft/axles Mazdaspeed hard rubber diff mounts, transmission mounts and motor mounts Wheel/tire: Volk TE-37's 17x9.5-18 front 18x10.5-5 rear Falken RT-615K 235/40/17 265/35/18 and finally... here's the build process of my FC from 2005-present... you gotta start somewhere.... Attachment 710929 Attachment 710930 Attachment 710931 Attachment 710932 Attachment 710933 Attachment 710934 Attachment 710935 Attachment 710936 Attachment 710937 |
Yes!
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Veryy nice setup JTP!
So for your front, you are running -4.5 camber? Mine is maxing out at 3.5 after shaving down the camber plates. Time to do the moar front camber mod you showed me a while back.. I Still need the rear individual camber links.. I need that zero rear camber! Engine build in the process right now for more power.. Oh and congrats on becoming the new moderator! |
Suspension:
Stance AL+ plus coilovers with 9kg front and 7kg rear springs Scottie's knuckles K-Sport S-13 tie rod ends modded to work on the FC MMR diff and subframe bushings awr ind camber adjusters craptastic center camber adjuster seam welded the rear sub and solid mounted diff. Os Giken 1.5way Brakes: stock!!! lol SS brake lines stock pads hand brake--- STOCK!! ^^^^ same as JTP -might go hydro Engine: 2005 LS2 from a GTO LS6 intake manifold and TB Stock GM ECU with HP Tuners BFR (big fucking radiator) Earl's oil and PS cooler Walboro 255 inline pump aeromotive 100micron filter/aeromotive fpr Sumped tank -8 fuel feed Tex racing T-101 4speed dogbox RPS ultralite clutch/FW combo Wheel/tire: right now RPF1 17x8 ( I know weak) and 17x10 +18 Here is the donar car: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4oH7iq6_oU http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4009/...6542ab6b_o.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2696/...4cb6a68c_o.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2493/...3cfb9d3fe6.jpg http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4002/...d8fb0c43d0.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2587/...f81d14c9c0.jpg LS2 and stuffs going in now... http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2773/...17ed6b25a4.jpg |
Originally Posted by sunburn
(Post 9670327)
Suspension:
Brakes: stock!!! lol SS brake lines stock pads hand brake--- STOCK!! ^^^^ same as JTP -might go hydro let me ask you this... what's your reasoning for wanting a hydro hand brake? |
2 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by dkwasherexd
(Post 9670208)
Veryy nice setup JTP!
So for your front, you are running -4.5 camber? Mine is maxing out at 3.5 after shaving down the camber plates. Time to do the moar front camber mod you showed me a while back.. I Still need the rear individual camber links.. I need that zero rear camber! Engine build in the process right now for more power.. Oh and congrats on becoming the new moderator! Attachment 710938 Attachment 710939 sunburn, i don't mean to use this pic as an example, but it's the most convenient pic to compare to.. notice how much "flop" the front wheel has "at" angle... i would suggest adding more static negative camber to correct this. There is other ways of going about it, namely adjusting caster, but stock caster works just fine with other corrections in alignment settings. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4002/...d8fb0c43d0.jpg |
That is soooooooo much angle. I am jealous, haha.
What contributes to your ability to have good rear traction? Lots of toe in, zero rear camber, soft rear springs, and a properly set up pinion angle? Is there anything else? Not that I need rear grip... I'm just curious. |
Originally Posted by ilia
(Post 9670569)
That is soooooooo much angle. I am jealous, haha.
What contributes to your ability to have good rear traction? Lots of toe in, zero rear camber, soft rear springs, and a properly set up pinion angle? Is there anything else? Not that I need rear grip... I'm just curious. too much toe in will make the car unstable at angle, wanting to make it go straight very easily off gas. close to zero rear camber and somewhat large tires adds to it, obviously putting down more rubber to the pavement will always give more traction. pinion angle is important, but not as much as basic alignment settings, or at least you shouldn't be worried about it, since that can also cause some other issues if not set right. fairly soft springs and soft suspension settings in the rear also aid to making the rear sit and grabbing traction. the "myth" of making the car stiff to drift definitely isn't correct, well not it my book... i like to have the rear suspension move and work to get grip, this also promotes more throttle input during drift, which is always exciting. and one final note... try taking off your sway bars... but only at the track you need them for daily driving... otherwise things can get loose at higher speeds.. |
Originally Posted by J.T.P.
(Post 9670560)
don't do it!! as long as stock is working well ( and if not, make it work well) leave it.. i guess in the end it's up to you, but FC hand brakes should work just fine as long as you're input thru the steering wheel is aggressive enough to initiate the drift.
let me ask you this... what's your reasoning for wanting a hydro hand brake? I need camber and caster in the front bad. In that pic above I have my camber settings maxed negative. |
Originally Posted by sunburn
(Post 9670611)
Because I might have to hack up the trans tunnel where the E-brake is to fit the trans... I'm going to try to come up with a cleaver way to still use the stock e brake
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Originally Posted by J.T.P.
(Post 9670617)
i'm sure you'll figure something out if you're doing all the fab work..
BTW. Did you solid mount your diff? |
This thread is going to be interesting. Hopefully I can provide some input when my vert is ready.
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Originally Posted by J.T.P.
(Post 9670603)
you're pretty much on the money.. everything you mentioned adds to rear traction, but the right amount of everything, not too much, not too little.
too much toe in will make the car unstable at angle, wanting to make it go straight very easily off gas. close to zero rear camber and somewhat large tires adds to it, obviously putting down more rubber to the pavement will always give more traction. pinion angle is important, but not as much as basic alignment settings, or at least you shouldn't be worried about it, since that can also cause some other issues if not set right. fairly soft springs and soft suspension settings in the rear also aid to making the rear sit and grabbing traction. the "myth" of making the car stiff to drift definitely isn't correct, well not it my book... i like to have the rear suspension move and work to get grip, this also promotes more throttle input during drift, which is always exciting. and one final note... try taking off your sway bars... but only at the track you need them for daily driving... otherwise things can get loose at higher speeds.. Since I daily the car, I've always run pretty factory stuff. -3 front camber, -3 rear camber, random pinion angle, zero toe all around. I always run sway bars too. I will try a setup closer to your next season, if I can afford the engine change like I hope to. Otherwise it's 215 front 205 rear with 70psi in them again for next year. :D |
Originally Posted by J.T.P.
(Post 9670603)
try taking off your sway bars... but only at the track you need them for daily driving... otherwise things can get loose at higher speeds..
I drive my car to the track and on the HWY it is pretty loose without the rear sway. |
Awesome thread. Its good to see somebody who really knows drift set up make one.
My FC is -3ish front camber, ~0 rear camber Toe- i have no idea. Stance GR+ medium stiff in front and about 3 clicks from full soft in the rear no swaybars- awesome and simple JTP knuckles- magic ATS Deftforce LSD I love the shit out of my car, its got loads of grip and angle and its super predictable and consistent. I deff have justin to thank for why my car is so fun to drive now. |
Originally Posted by ilia
(Post 9670789)
Since I daily the car, I've always run pretty factory stuff.
-3 front camber, -3 rear camber, random pinion angle, zero toe all around. I always run sway bars too. I will try a setup closer to your next season, if I can afford the engine change like I hope to. Otherwise it's 215 front 205 rear with 70psi in them again for next year. :D
Originally Posted by USS CJ
(Post 9671110)
Awesome thread. Its good to see somebody who really knows drift set up make one.
My FC is -3ish front camber, ~0 rear camber Toe- i have no idea. Stance GR+ medium stiff in front and about 3 clicks from full soft in the rear no swaybars- awesome and simple JTP knuckles- magic ATS Deftforce LSD I love the shit out of my car, its got loads of grip and angle and its super predictable and consistent. I deff have justin to thank for why my car is so fun to drive now.
Originally Posted by sunburn
(Post 9670626)
Yeah I'm doing the work... I'm pretty crafty :lol:
BTW. Did you solid mount your diff? |
Hey Dudes.
This is what I'm doin... Suspension: DG-5 coilovers with 8kg front and 6kg rear springs GP sports super angle kit Aurora Sperical rod ends Toyota Elec. Powersteering pump Spindle modification with SUPER SPECIAL camber modification Poly control arm bushings front AWR toe links in the rear AWR Indv. camber adjusters Alum. Diff mounts Alum. Subframe mounts Reinforced subframe pickup points AWR Spherical Trailing arm sleeve/bearing NO REAR SWAY BAR Mazdacomp diff mount STOCK center camber adjuster mazdaspeed dtts eliminator kit 0 toe front 1/16th toe in rear Brakes: Powerslot rotors SS brake lines HAWK pads hand brake--- STOCK!! Engine: 13B-RE 1000cc pri and sec inj Haltech e8 LS1 Ign. coils World Elec. Boost Controller Borg Warner s366 series turbo(T3 Flange) Greddy 48mm W/G External dumped Tubular Large runner mani v-mount STOCK oil cooler w/ -10 Lines Oil pedestal(to mount Oil Pres./Oil temp senders) aeromotive A1000 Pump/FPR ATL 10 Gal. Fuel cell all -6 fuel lines(rails run in parallel) KG parts Fuel rails (modified to fit 1000 cc Denso inj) Pineapple racing Oil Pan w/ baffles pickup surround(modified to fit RE) Mazda comp OPR Mazda Comp Serpentine(ribbed) belt conversion Banzai RE mounts Drivetrain: Exedy Hyper Single Clutch Kazz 1.5 way LSD stock t2 trans C's Short shifter(meh) Driveshaft Shop Axles Chassis: TIP Engineering cage Stitchwelded front strut towers Wheel/tire: Volk TE-37's 17x9.5-8 front 18x10.5-12 rear(spacers) 235-40-17 front, 245/55-18 rear tires |
Suspension:
Front BC Coilovers 10kg Springs Stock swaybar Custom Shortened spindles MMR Delrin Control arm bushes Rear BC Coilovers 8kg Springs No swaybar Shortened stock camber links Custom adjustable toe rods (eccentric bolt welded) MMR rear diff mounts Welded solid front diff mount DTSS Elim Adjsutable single camber link Brakes: RE Amemiya Front Stock Rear Hydro Handbrake Engine: 1JZGTE Intake Exhaust 280rwhp Drivetrain: Locked diff Heavy single plate clutch W55 Solid engine and gearbox mounts Chassis: 6 Point weld in cage Front cusco strut brace Wheels: Sparco NTR 17x9 + 10 Front Sparco NTR 17x9 + 0 Rear |
Originally Posted by J.T.P.
(Post 9670603)
you're pretty much on the money.. everything you mentioned adds to rear traction, but the right amount of everything, not too much, not too little.
too much toe in will make the car unstable at angle, wanting to make it go straight very easily off gas. close to zero rear camber and somewhat large tires adds to it, obviously putting down more rubber to the pavement will always give more traction. pinion angle is important, but not as much as basic alignment settings, or at least you shouldn't be worried about it, since that can also cause some other issues if not set right. fairly soft springs and soft suspension settings in the rear also aid to making the rear sit and grabbing traction. the "myth" of making the car stiff to drift definitely isn't correct, well not it my book... i like to have the rear suspension move and work to get grip, this also promotes more throttle input during drift, which is always exciting. and one final note... try taking off your sway bars... but only at the track you need them for daily driving... otherwise things can get loose at higher speeds.. With my car I picked up a tonne of rear traction going from 6kg to 8kg (no sway bar) maybe to do with too much camber gain when it was softer? or perhaps I had too much camber to begin with (2 degrees). Was night and day. 1.5mm toe in helped too. |
this thread is awsome.... definitely something that is needed.
my setup is jic flt-a2's 8k f 7k r. dont know my camber, but the rear is more than the front. stock brakes ss lines, hawk blue front pads hawk hp+ rear pads. slotted rotors. i used to have a hell of a time on transitions, and this is making more sense now that i am reading more of you guys setups. honestly, i know i am about to sound like a dork.. but i am about to try these setups on turismo right now... with the steering wheel that is. |
Originally Posted by JebusFC
(Post 9671208)
With my car I picked up a tonne of rear traction going from 6kg to 8kg (no sway bar) maybe to do with too much camber gain when it was softer? or perhaps I had too much camber to begin with (2 degrees). Was night and day. 1.5mm toe in helped too.
The camber could also come into play... |
Thats a really good point!, probaly was bottoming out, never really checked but it was pretty unpredictable at times. Something to look at for other dudes with low cars and 6kg no sway bar!
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Originally Posted by JebusFC
(Post 9671186)
Drivetrain:
Locked diff Heavy single plate clutch W55 Solid engine and gearbox mounts Really dumb question... How are you running a locked diff? Are you using an NA pumpkin? If you're using a turbo housing/gear etc... how are you doing that? Did you weld a torsen together or something? |
To be honest dude, not sure. Its all turbo stuff. I just found a diff that was local and open head. I think some of our turbo 5 speed came open head. But all our turbo auto's are LSD. Kinda Weird.
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Weird... I wonder if it's the big ring gear or the small ring gear. What I'm trying to find out is if the small NA differential/axles will work with a turbo motor. I'm broke and I want to keep my welded 4.30 if possible.
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