First drift build
So I recently purchased an 88 rx tII swap (engine, trans, brakes, drivetrain).
I moved to florida to get more into the scene and I am nothing but eager to get on the track. I am gaining a lot of knowledge from reading and listening to few trusted people. I ordered my toe steering eliminator bushing set along with steering rack angle spacers from parts shop max, just waiting on arrival. Getting my omp block off kit from banzai, doing basic maintance including plugs and fluid changes. Taking out my n/a open diff to get plate welded by a friend. Considering converting to 5 lug if I can find the right hubs. Hopefully ordering my springs today - debating on fortune primes or 500 series. Probably not doing the swift upgrade for now, but maybe in the future. Tire size is currently 215/40R17. Debating on tweaking that a little or not. Ordering a front comp. Diff mount from mazdatrix too. Doing the pinion snubber mod too. I think that is it to start besides looking for wheels and tires. Open to suggestions as this is my first time building a car like this. I had a 90 rx7 tII swap a few years ago so I am familiar with rotary engines but drifting is a brand new world for me. |
IMHO... here is the list of things that should be at the top of your list.
1: Diff 2: Coilovers 3: Good solid clutch 4: Good bucket seat 5: decent to good brake pads 6: SEAT TIME Keep it simple, and as reliable as you can, and upgrade as its needed. once it starts to hold you back, or breaks, then, and only then is it time to upgrade. You seem to be on the right track so far, but Ive seen SOOO many people, on this forum in fact, over build their cars, and end up hating it, or losing interest in the car all together. Ive had my fc for 3 years now, and still have not increased the horsepower at all. Just made it as reliable, and run as cool as possible. really the weakest link in my case anyway, is the diff. even with a mostly stock t2, I seem to run through rear end parts like crazy. Hoping to do an s4 t2 diff asap. Good luck! |
Clutch is already set along with brakes. I appreciate your opinion. Im leaning towards fortune coilovers. What do you use?
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Originally Posted by MazdaGirlFC
(Post 12065317)
Clutch is already set along with brakes. I appreciate your opinion. Im leaning towards fortune coilovers. What do you use?
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Originally Posted by MazdaGirlFC
(Post 12065317)
Clutch is already set along with brakes. I appreciate your opinion. Im leaning towards fortune coilovers. What do you use?
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Originally Posted by K!NCH
(Post 12065392)
I've got Fortune Auto 500s with Swift springs (8k in the front, 6k in the rear). I love them.
I have decided on the fortune 500s. Just debating on the swift spring upgrade now or waiting. |
Originally Posted by MazdaGirlFC
(Post 12065768)
I have decided on the fortune 500s. Just debating on the swift spring upgrade now or waiting.
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Sounds like youre mostly on the right track, swfit springs on FA500's is a good combination too. If you have a powered rack I would get a set of rack spacers as well, the extra angle will help,
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The swift springs are worth the upgrade price. They offer unparalleled consistency in their manufacturing. (The springs respond how you expect them to).
I am a distributor for over 600 aftermarket brands and have never had a single complaint on swift springs. |
Originally Posted by SpikeDerailed
(Post 12066642)
Sounds like youre mostly on the right track, swfit springs on FA500's is a good combination too. If you have a powered rack I would get a set of rack spacers as well, the extra angle will help,
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I dont have a t2 transmision so i doubt my brakes are t2 so im gonna keep my 4 lugs for now.
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Originally Posted by MazdaGirlFC
(Post 12067119)
I dont have a t2 transmision so i doubt my brakes are t2 so im gonna keep my 4 lugs for now.
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Originally Posted by K!NCH
(Post 12067251)
T2 trans is a good upgrade. I've toasted two NAs with a NA 13B. I can't imagine running them in a boosted car.
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He said it was but the turbo starter didnt work but neither is the na starter. Mine says its an auto starter
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IIRC there are two different auto starters. One can be mounted to the manual trans (either) and the other cannot. The one that can be has a slightly different snout than the manual starters to, again IIRC, fit around the torque converter. This means the manual starter cannot fit an auto (and is weaker) but an auto starter can fit a manual (assuming same mounting style) and is much stronger. IIRC the manual starters are rated at 1.3kW while the auto starter is 2.0kW. The other difference is the auto starter is a few inches OAL longer than the manual. So... long post short, congrats, you have the little known "upgrade" which will help (or hide) if you develop hot start issues.
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Auto(2kw motor) and Turbo(1.2kw motor) starters can be interchanged with each other as they are for the larger flywheel/flexplate setup. The non turbo 5spd starters(1.2kw) do not interchange with anything but non turbo rotary 5spd starters as they are for the smaller flywheel setup.
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Originally Posted by SpikeDerailed
(Post 12067640)
Auto(2kw motor) and Turbo(1.2kw motor) starters can be interchanged with each other as they are for the larger flywheel/flexplate setup. The non turbo 5spd starters(1.2kw) do not interchange with anything but non turbo rotary 5spd starters as they are for the smaller flywheel setup.
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