drift alignment
 

anyone here bother to get an alignment?

i did one a few days ago and i think i made it worse and better.

-2.6 front camber
-2.8 rear camber (can't adjust)
4.9 castor
.17 toe in
.05 toe out

the rear end comes out really nicely with the new toe, but the front end feels really understeer-y at my last event. when it was on the rack it was at about 0 toe or the left and .20 toe out on the right, and stock alignment said .15 combined toe in (.075 on each side).. im thinking that's what messed me up. i figured i'd add a hair more toe in for a little more turn in, but i think it jacked up counter steer. nothin but push.

im going to try to align it back to 0..

Go slight toe out in the front. That't the reason for your understeer. And get a camber rod that rear camber is way too much, bring it down to ~ -1 ot where ever your tires wear even. Toe in = stability, toe out = response.

front toe out makes turn in faster, front toe in makes the car more stable at higher straight line speeds. im running 0 toe in the front and 1-1.5mm total rear toe in. i tried toe out in the rear, but it seemed to work better and be more stable in drift with a little rear toe in. but, i have 400hp so ive got no problem getting the rear end out. im running -3* front and -0.5* rear camber

I don't know anything about drift alignments, but don't overlook something as simple as tire pressures.

ive been running the same pressures for the last few events, but i did try to play with it a little.

and i know about the rear camber being a bit much, it's just a work in progress ya know? i'll aim for -1 or less when i get them. but you guys think i should shoot for maybe a hair of toe-out in the front? i noticed the more toe out the more castor i had, which is an added bonus effect i guess. the right side (with the .2 toe out to begin with) was at about 5.5 castor to start with, bringing it down to 4.8 with .07 toe in

i'll definately have to do a bit of eye-ball toe adjustment before the event tomarrow, since it was seriously pissing me off last sunday. lol

I think tire pressure is very important. I manage to put on some 20psi rear tires on a qualifying run. Had to work my ass off not to spinn while switching from one side to another. I usually run 50-60psi ,depends on what tire i use. Anyway rising the pressure higher i feel i loose grip.

Sindre

you cant really get accurate caster readings when the wheels are toe in/out. its the same as turning the wheel when you do an alignment. say for example, you put the toe at 5mm out, and your caster is 6*, when you drive and turn the wheel a touch, the wheel is now pointing straight, and has 4* of caster... if that makes sense...

reviving this thread because i think its important and want to know what everyone else is doing.

readjusted the toe in the front to .02 toe out (long time ago), and it felt MUCH better. just ordered the rear camber link and plan on getting that rear camber taken care of.

although i'll have to pull my rear fenders now.. haha

werd.

just be careful if you try toe out in the rear tatakai. It comes out easier, but i find it make the car more unstable and and unpredictable when going stright and making small adjustments. Its like everything is amplified .

i mainly did it because of the n/a fail. i'll probably re-adjust it closer to 0 or maybe a hair of toe-in once im boosting.

not dissagreeing with anyone on here. and not to sound like a newb. but my first time hearing about drift alignment was in an old super street id say about 2-3 years ago? i thought what ever pro driver was talking said that you should either have no toe in or slight toe in in the front for stability when exiting. and a slight toe out in the back for the purpose of breaking traction to initiate... does any of that sound right???
also if you dont mind me asking on your thread.. how would you align one of your cars if you had a welded diff? considering both wheels are spinning exactly the same seems like having any toe out would be more than needed.

in the front, toe in increases turn-in, but from what i've tested really sucks for countersteering.

toe in the back is preference more it seems like, toe out better for initiating (i found useful being n/a) and toe in for stability.

we dont have a solid rear axle, so each wheel is still independent as far as alignment and travel goes. the diff just controls how the wheels spin.

You probably want toe out in the front.

I say get the rear camber adjusted as soon as you can. You've just been fighting against it till this point. -1 to -.5 is a good range to start in. That should make a world of difference in itself.

that would make more sense because isnt the rx7 more likely to oversteer?

Understeer.

sorry haha thats what i meant.