diff welding write ups??
anyone know if theres a fc diff welding how-to with pics on here??? i cant find shit
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It's pretty straightforward. Cut a steel plate to fit between the spider gears, and weld them all together. Flip the diff over, repeat.
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yea i had to ask around to figure this out myself.. especially since i just tried welding the spider gears only to realize it still didnt act like a welded diff, LOL you need to weld the spiders to the casing it sits inside of. here's a picture my friend drew for me (pardon the ms paint skills)
basically i took the diff housing, put the gears/gear housings inside of it (to make sure things were lined up) tack welded the housing to the gear (outside where you see the splines) flipped it over, did the same, made sure everything fit right, and welded it up, again inside of the housing to make sure things didnt get misaligned. everything is a tight fit so i imagine if you let things get moved around you're boned and it wont fit. basically, take the clutch discs out, and welded where the discs were. |
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lol the paint diagram is amazing! pretty you pretty much have the concept down good luck man.
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Originally Posted by Tatakai
(Post 10998342)
yea i had to ask around to figure this out myself.. especially since i just tried welding the spider gears only to realize it still didnt act like a welded diff, LOL you need to weld the spiders to the casing it sits inside of. here's a picture my friend drew for me (pardon the ms paint skills)
basically i took the diff housing, put the gears/gear housings inside of it (to make sure things were lined up) tack welded the housing to the gear (outside where you see the splines) flipped it over, did the same, made sure everything fit right, and welded it up, again inside of the housing to make sure things didnt get misaligned. everything is a tight fit so i imagine if you let things get moved around you're boned and it wont fit. basically, take the clutch discs out, and welded where the discs were. |
our diffs are front loading banjo type so the have to come out and sit on the floor
the rear loading type of diffs like the are much more of a pain in the setup though http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/1...0210367.th.jpg http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/2...0210368.th.jpg http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/9...0210369.th.jpg http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/7523/pic0210370.th.jpg the trick is to leave axles in when you drop in the plate else it may drop low,,, or spatter may get into the splines and you also have to spot weld the back of the spider shaft to the case and be sure the weld is not so high to stop it rotating in the case PS welding is messy no matter whet due to oil the contamination you can choose a strong mig or and arc and using some penetrene spray ( oil based ) will help the weding process and help the spatter not to stick hilux toyo G diff is pictured ,, our diffs are very similar inside |
so u only use oneplate an weld it? on my s13 i used two plates i welded in one then roatated the axels an did the other side
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1 plate each side to lock up all the spider gears
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I finally got a weld on my rear end haha. So is it gonna break easier with a welded rear end or something orrr any drawbacks really to this... aside the fact that it drags the other tire when turning of course.
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Thats my paint picture! :)
Its easy to get the diff out and you just weld the main drive gears there the axles slide in. Its honestly not rocket science.. |
If you can't weld or are just inexperienced have someone else weld it up cause proper heat penetration is important doing this. Weld fails are catastrophic.
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I purchased an old auto diff 3.8 ratio I think that had been sitting round for years by the looks of it no axles etc. Pulled the back off it welded the spiders with an arc and haven't had any issues 3 years later of alot of track work
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