Which diff is better?
 

I was curious is there an advantage of running a TII rear end over running a GXL clutch type diff? I know the TII can handel more power. Thats not a problem for me since I am NA. Reason I ask is I have a TII rear end just sitting around. I know id need a custom driveshaft to mate it to my tranny and that I need to get the TII axels.

since you got it you should use it, somewhere down the lines you gotta have plans for more power. at least you'll have it there already

i would just keep the na rear end for now until u change to a t2 engine. The na diff and halfshafts and driveshaft is already the lightest. The t2s whole setup is alot thicker and heavier[more rotating mass] making it hard for a na to get wheel spin..

Keep the na diff until it grenades or you turbo swap.

i've seen NA diff handle 400hp of ls1 fury of v8 rx7

the NA diff is 7in and t2 is 8in, thats all



Turbo diff is not good enough for drifting anyway. you need more lockup. you need KAAZ or welded.

Or you can shim the stock clutch types, mazdatrix sells kits. Also I believe the only reason that rear end in holding up to the LS1 is the lack of anykind of grip in the rear.

Not to jack the thread, but would a TII Engine + Tranny with a custom drive shaft to a stock n/a diff work well? Like the first time I take it out it wouldn't grenade on me...

Running stock boost.

the thread i made about how to seup a welded diff shows how to convert a t2 shaft to fit a na diff...iWELD THAT SUCKER !!!
ts on the bottom of the list in the drifting section..

if u dont have the t2 halfshafts and t 2 diff to go with ur poweplant, just weld the na diff and mod ur t2 driveshaft. Na diff and halfshafts are lighter[equals less rotating mass] meaning more wheel spin at ease for u. and with awelded is just like having a 2way at 100% lock.. embrace the budget drifter hahaha

I'm all for going on a budget :icon_tup:

Maybe I'll do a TII engine and tranny. Custom drive shaft and an aftermarket diff. Like a KAAZ or something.

the na diff is too weak for any sustained amount of power. i went the cheap way on my old gxl turbo swap. welded the na diff with a 220v welder. halfway through a drift day it started acting funky. after i got it home, we pulled it out and i took off the rear cover and all the teeth were sheered off and sitting in the bottom of the cover. lucily i had another welded na diff.. slid that in and blew the motor. parted the car before i torched the diff. my na trans held the power ok though. stock t2 motor.

to the op. build your t2 diff with kaaz or even just weld it and keep it around. the na diff should just be welded and dont worry about the worn clutch type lsd. its probably trashed anyway.

As long as you dont up the power from a stock tune, or add any grip in the rear it will be fine for a while. It will last longer than most welded diffs if that counts for anything, it could be a 1 or 10k miles it just depends on alot of things.

On a side note I blew up my diff last night. Time to try something new. I am certain that 9k WOT shifts with the new doggy gear set made it puke, along with my new wheels that is. I think I over did it a lil, I just wanted the most amount of grip I could get is all, I mean they are only 14in wide with bead locks, and 15in dia. Ok so I was being a dumb ass with the flares off the car and decided to run my really soft compound hoosiers off of my late model on the fc. It was fun though, for the hour it lasted.

What about one the n/a diff goes, or I replace it before hand ? Would it be better yo go to the turbo diff or go to an aftermarket one? Will the other n/a parts hold up?

If you are doing the t2 swap you already have some money in it, the extra 3-400$ for the rearend drive shafts, and half shafts would be well worth the extra coin, especially when you start upping the boost.

First off. I want to clear ALOT of shit up.

1. Welded diffs, no matter what your driving, WILL BREAK. Could be 15 miles could 1500 miles. Who knows. This is the WORST thing you can do. Do you want to risk losing the diff @ the track 50 miles from your house in a DD?

2. DO NOT LISTEN TO SHIT DKWASHEREXD says. Every post I have seen this guy make is utterly stupid and has no backing to its. There is no MAJOR differences between the NA shaft and axles and TII stuff, weight wise, that would totally bog your car down.

3. If your going to do a TII swap. DO IT FUCKING RIGHT AND DO THE WHOLE DRIVE TRAIN!!!!!!! Why do you think Mazda made the TII drive line beefier then the N/A? If the mfr does it, why not you?

I totally understand alot of people are on tight budgets, and that drifting can become an expensive sport, but for christs sake, dont do something JUST BECAUSE YOU WAT TO GET IT DONE NOW!!!!!!!!!!!! Save the extra cash and do it right.

/rant off!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

well i have a t2 s5 rear end in my n/a it doesnt affect it to slide,it just is a little harder to slide cause its the viscus limited slip if it was the clutch type or torsen, it will have a better lock up.


is there a way to shim the viscus?, cause the nissan's s-chassis and z-chassis they do a method shiming the vlsd

I would like to quote Rotarygod

"One test result is worth more than a thousand expert opinions."

"If you aren't testing, you are guessing."

"Cheap usually costs more and rushing things usually takes more time."

I want to get my hands on a viscus diff one day to try a poured spool. Basically you drill a hole in it and drain the fluid. Wash it out with mineral spirits and fill it with melted babbitt. Allow to cool and weld up the hole and you have a "welded" diff. Except when this one brakes it will brake open and you just need to heat the lsd case with a torch to "reweld" it.

OMG im guna cry like a baby now..wow. fine. my feelings are soo hurt.oh my na halfshafts are gunna snapp too omg..pllzz omg nooo what to do...i m poor.oh man i have awelded weiner!!!

Seriously, you're nothing more than a fanboy troll.

oh fuck ya this is going in the quote thread.

Also with all of this Risky business going on I am going down to the DMV to get a plate change. I waited and waited for these damn plates but now I am disgraced to even run my car with them because I am afraid to be affiliated with risky devil. A sad sad day for the devil 7, she will once again be fastdrft, or maybe phuku2 again.

I don't get it, this has been done before with positive results although not that I have seen with viscus diffs.

welded diffs will not break if done properly.

welding a diff is not as simple as many think.

I daily drove(mainly) and drifted(moderately) a TII conversion with NA rearend for 4 years.

The NA rear end took 200rwhp no problem. The stock 120k LSD finally did go out and I was a one wheel wonder. (after about 15-20k of turbo power)

The only driveline thing I broke was the damn front diff mount(like 5 of them in 4 years)

To get you car running, yes you can use the NA rear for as long as you need if your not pushing crazy hp and using drag slicks.

I recently went to a TII rearend. The mileage is some where around 100K on it. It takes hours of drifting abuse almost every week. It still locks up perfectly.

So, Either I got lucky and have a diff that's taking above average abuse OR the TII LSD can handle more abuse over the NA LSD.

I would only weld a NA rearend. They are stupid cheap(I gave mine away) and abundant.I break it and I don't care. TII rears are harder to get and worth more.
I would rather try and save for the carbonetic 2way. Those things are suppose to be damn near bulletproof.

so has anyone on the forum, shimmed any t2 lsd before?