Teals Steering angle stuff.
#2
dear mike. that stuff looks horrible. I did all my own stuff. extended balljoints and modified knuckles. there is no point to lower the tierod pickup like that. unless you lower the balljoint pickup. it doesnt fix the bumpsteer or anything. for that price I would save more and buy pbm knuckles and control arms that have the balljoint pickup lower. then you r geometry will be better. Also I have no idea why you would want to use s13 tierod ends. that makes no sense to me.
also thought it was funny that they have it cheaper to buy the knuckles and balljoints separately than it is to buy as the kit. lol
also thought it was funny that they have it cheaper to buy the knuckles and balljoints separately than it is to buy as the kit. lol
Last edited by joshuaput; 06-29-15 at 08:01 AM.
#3
Full Member
iTrader: (10)
I'm sure they charge more on the full kit because they give you NEW inner rods as it says if you read right (inner rods aren't pictured)
Also that drop does fix bumpsteer aftermarket tie rod end drop the pick up. To reduce stress on the inner tie rod so you tell me how that drops is not stressing on the inner rod at full lock???
s13 because their cheaper and can be found at your local parts store in case they break like expensive rod ends..
dropping the lower ball joint pick up to reduce bump steer what are you talking about?
Also that drop does fix bumpsteer aftermarket tie rod end drop the pick up. To reduce stress on the inner tie rod so you tell me how that drops is not stressing on the inner rod at full lock???
s13 because their cheaper and can be found at your local parts store in case they break like expensive rod ends..
dropping the lower ball joint pick up to reduce bump steer what are you talking about?
dear mike. that stuff looks horrible. I did all my own stuff. extended balljoints and modified knuckles. there is no point to lower the tierod pickup like that. unless you lower the balljoint pickup. it doesnt fix the bumpsteer or anything. for that price I would save more and buy pbm knuckles and control arms that have the balljoint pickup lower. then you r geometry will be better. Also I have no idea why you would want to use s13 tierod ends. that makes no sense to me.
also thought it was funny that they have it cheaper to buy the knuckles and balljoints separately than it is to buy as the kit. lol
also thought it was funny that they have it cheaper to buy the knuckles and balljoints separately than it is to buy as the kit. lol
Last edited by mukurosfc3s; 06-29-15 at 08:44 PM. Reason: to keep hoes In Nike
#4
if you drop just the tierod pickup and leave the control arm the same it does nothing for you. except maybe make it all worse. also they give you new inner rods that cost $15 eash. but charge $80 more. lol. you can pick up rx7 tierods at the local parts store too. and they are just as cheap. and ALOT stronger.
I didnt say dropping your balljoint pickup to reduce bump steer. I said you need to change the two in order for it to do anything. you need to keep your control arm and your tierod on the same plane. you reduce bump steer by making your control arm AND tierod lower so you have the correct geometry when you hit a bump. instead of having both sit flat or the pickups higher than the mounts. then the geometry is moving up and in. if you have the pickups lower then when you hit a bump it swing out and up. which is the way the suspension was designed. OR you could have the control arm angled up and the tierod angled down(such as what would happen if you had these knuckles) and have this wierd toe effect whenever you hit a bump. stressing everything.
These would make your wheels, upon hitting a bump, toe out then back in while only producing a ton of camber through the whole range. If you keep the tierod and control arm on the same plane(parallel) then both will move the same. not changing toe at all throughout the range of the suspension.
I didnt say dropping your balljoint pickup to reduce bump steer. I said you need to change the two in order for it to do anything. you need to keep your control arm and your tierod on the same plane. you reduce bump steer by making your control arm AND tierod lower so you have the correct geometry when you hit a bump. instead of having both sit flat or the pickups higher than the mounts. then the geometry is moving up and in. if you have the pickups lower then when you hit a bump it swing out and up. which is the way the suspension was designed. OR you could have the control arm angled up and the tierod angled down(such as what would happen if you had these knuckles) and have this wierd toe effect whenever you hit a bump. stressing everything.
These would make your wheels, upon hitting a bump, toe out then back in while only producing a ton of camber through the whole range. If you keep the tierod and control arm on the same plane(parallel) then both will move the same. not changing toe at all throughout the range of the suspension.
I'm sure they charge more on the full kit because they give you NEW inner rods as it says if you read right (inner rods aren't pictured)
Also that drop does fix bumpsteer aftermarket tie rod end drop the pick up. To reduce stress on the inner tie rod so you tell me how that drops is not stressing on the inner rod at full lock???
s13 because their cheaper and can be found at your local parts store in case they break like expensive rod ends..
dropping the lower ball joint pick up to reduce bump steer what are you talking about?
Also that drop does fix bumpsteer aftermarket tie rod end drop the pick up. To reduce stress on the inner tie rod so you tell me how that drops is not stressing on the inner rod at full lock???
s13 because their cheaper and can be found at your local parts store in case they break like expensive rod ends..
dropping the lower ball joint pick up to reduce bump steer what are you talking about?
Last edited by joshuaput; 06-30-15 at 08:28 AM.
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gracer7-rx7 (11-30-21)
#6
its pretty clear to me that teals suspension has done absolutely no research into suspension geometry. my guess is that it is some kid in his garage that saw someone else modify their knuckles like that and said "I can do that" then made a website selling their stuff. good for whoever it is. but they're not going to go very far like that. There are a ton of companies just like this. I would rather invest in a company that is actually trying to make a better part than one that is just trying to come up. Or I would invest in my own knowledge and do some research into it myself. There are plenty of companies that have tried and are still trying to improve on our outdated chassis. I would rather support them. This is all my opinion though. not trying to **** on them. just trying to give my friend my opinion.
Last edited by joshuaput; 06-30-15 at 09:00 AM.
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#9
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I have the teals knuckles and tie.rods..... and let me tell you... they are the shizz. Daily drove them for a while.. ran into a curb at 30mph and the knuckles didnt break. Lol.
The lower pivot point does help when hitting pot holes definitely reduces stress on the tie rods.
I recommended them to my buddy and he daily drives his rex with no problems.
The lower pivot point does help when hitting pot holes definitely reduces stress on the tie rods.
I recommended them to my buddy and he daily drives his rex with no problems.
#10
you are very right. I have never had any experience with the company. Im sorry I commented.
there you go. they are the shizz.
oh also this might help you a bit mukurosfc3s. you know.. for future exploits.
Let me google that for you
there you go. they are the shizz.
oh also this might help you a bit mukurosfc3s. you know.. for future exploits.
Let me google that for you
Last edited by joshuaput; 06-30-15 at 03:20 PM.
#11
Mike. if you have some time I would suggest browsing this thread. I also have a book or two on the subject. I know it has absolutely nothing to do with this post. but I didnt want to start a new thread. It might help others as well. maybe not. I dont know.
This is the roll center, suspension pickup, and steering angle modification thread. - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum
(yes I know its primarily about s chassis stuff. but the physics are all the same.)
This is the roll center, suspension pickup, and steering angle modification thread. - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum
(yes I know its primarily about s chassis stuff. but the physics are all the same.)
#13
Full Member
iTrader: (10)
i use Txt talk.. figured you would understand.. you did.. guess you can be useful
oh also this might help you a bit mukurosfc3s. you know.. for future exploits.
Let me google that for you[/QUOTE]
oh also this might help you a bit mukurosfc3s. you know.. for future exploits.
Let me google that for you[/QUOTE]
Last edited by mukurosfc3s; 07-01-15 at 03:30 PM.
#16
you know, for being sponsored by them you sure do talk alot of trash about their parts.
#18
Forgot about this thread. Dear Josh, If you want to weld my stuff for me id love that I have seen your steering angle and ridden in your car it is loverly but do not have the skills/equipment/sheer strength of will, to weld my own and think I will survive.
Also please continue the internet fight you two, you have my blessing.
Also please continue the internet fight you two, you have my blessing.
#20
hate to bump an old thread but, since i can't get ahold of abercrombie i am thinking about using teals kit ..... so does anyone have first hand experience with this ? or know whats up with abercrombie ? NOT LOOKING TO BUY A PMB KIT either so don't recommend it
Last edited by Nick Ritter; 01-05-16 at 02:42 PM.
#23
simple .... $1100 + shipping+ wait time....... is way to much and i will not be that competitive to the point where i need to spend that much i don't need something that fancy either. Just looking for a little more angle. i also like supporting locals in this community.
i don't have any "beef" with anyone in this community. So, quit trying to stir the pot.
i don't have any "beef" with anyone in this community. So, quit trying to stir the pot.
#24