coil overs for cheap?
 

I am buying an fc this weekend and i plan to weld the dif and throw some coilovers on it but what ones. Im on a budget and am not looking to spend over 600 on them but i also want ones that are decent enough to learn with..?

If i was in your position i'd do one of the following:

-Buy godspeed coilovers

-Buy used. People think teins are beneath them and sell them next to nothing all the time.

-Buy egay sleeves and koni's. I had this awesome idea to just use some 1/4" plate and make knuckle brackets and weld them to a threaded steel sleeve and just hold the shock to the lower bracket with some kind of clamp. I dunno much about welding shit to sealed tubes full of gas and oil so i wouldn't go that route. People do it all the time but i'm pretty diy with janky shit most places wont touch or will charge an arm and a leg for.

-Run stock and save money. Spending all your money to have a car that someone on the internet approves of and swears up and down will make you heaps better is fucking lame. Just replace stuff as it breaks. +1 on welding the diff though. Lot of happy fun time. Can suck at times daily driving but i'm glad i tried one out vs listening to all the homos telling me to buy an lsd like it's required to be able to slide....

No Pistons. You crack my shit up lol.

CiF. Get used teins. I got a set, they are cheap as balls. They ride decent, go low as old man dick and most if the time don't make too much noise.

Where so i find used teins'? there not on ebay and im bout to go check the for sale forum here.

used Megans go for around that same price too. They're okay and I've been running mine for four years now with little to no problems.

godspeed. $560 - $650 + shipping.

tein's are garbage and almost always super haggard looking, rusty, blown out etc.
used teins are still more than brand new + warranty godspeed coils.... make your bed.

how limited will my learning be if i run stock for a while?

just sold my teins picking up a street ported turbo 2 and hopefully some cheap coils quick cause my car looks like it belongs at redneck yacht club right now!

umm... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ADJUS...Q5fCarQ5fParts

ummm yea 150 shipping is a joke

300 for coilovers +150 for shipping = 450

might as well get godspeeds' for 100 more considering they aren't as crappy as their Chinese knock offs lol

youll be more scared, but youll be fine.
i did it with NA + stock suspension/open diff for like 2 events. makes you get good fast, or just not progress.

damn china is killing it.
i would move there and build one rad ass WDS spec drift car if it weren't for the language barrier...

haha yea fuckin shit up and getting new parts on the cheap

anyways i have godspeeds theyre almost like or are megan coilovers basically. they pretty decent for sliding around and shit. i just wish they went as low as my max coilovers

Precisely. If you are building a car as a joke just to beat the piss out of, that's the route to go. Smashing up baller parts isn't fun. Destroying some bullshit laughing all evil-like is rad as fuck. Tommy Roberts killing it in the purple bn fc! Was that the same shell from the previous year(s)?

GODSPEED coil overs are no good. rather have lowering springs, in my opinion of experience.

D2s are best at a great price, i get mine all day for $750.00

imo the only suspension that would compare to D2s are tein FLEXs.

^ This. Its how I started too except with a factory clutch type. If you drive it like that then get coils there is a night and day differnce and you learn allot about how your car handles and responds.

^ I want to buy your car to use for the swap and spare parts.

I'm still not sure how you guys have drifted N/A FCs and not broken anything ... I'm on my second driveshaft, and half the time my car isnt making full power due to dying coils (I think). Maybe I'm clutch-kicking too hard or something, I dunno.

I'm currently riding on dying stock-replacement KYBs and Intrax lowering springs, and with a welded diff and shitty tires the car steps out nicely, and is easy to control. New struts (or coilovers for another c-note) and better tires/wheels will definitely step up my game.

i beat the fuck out of my na drivetrain for a few years. then i turboed the car and the drivetrain was still fine, as long as i didnt mind swapping diffs every other event but i have never broken an axle. i think you have them misaligned or some kind of binding issue to be breaking axles with 120lbft of tq.

oh and i learned on stock suspension, open diff and no power on an fc. it was tough as hell. one week driving an s13= like 3 months of running hard in an fc in that condition but it is so much more rewarding. s13 is for retard that wants to think that they know how to drive.

what happened to the tanabes. and i have coilspacks somewhere in the death trap i call a garage hit me up. and i did snap a driveline once just never at the track.

Driveshaft, Derek, not axles. Jeremy Lowe is running a welded N/A diff and axles with pretty good power so I'm confident they won't blow anytime soon. Not sure if a solid diff-to-subframe mount is part of the issue or not. I'd stick with the N/A driveline and get a Mazdatrix serviceable driveshaft if my trans wasn't whining like it was straight-cut. Hell the car has a brand new Exedy stage 1 clutch in it, I definitely don't want to buy another clutch, but finding a cheap T-II trans is near impossible. Such a toss-up.

I sold the Tanabe springs to my roommate for his Toyota. There's a mint '87 base at the pick n pull off 33rd in SLC that has nice coils I might pick up, the car barely has 100k on the clock, I even pulled a clean, one-piece uncracked center console trim from it.

nice i might need to check that out.