Is there a quick fix or bandaid for this??
 

Took off my mudguards today because im selling them and i had a HUGE surprise.

Like any old car, RUST!!!!!!!

I was almost shell shocked by the immense rust that formed behind these mudguards.

My body/paint isnt perfect btw, but i try to keep it really clean and waxed because i dont have an indoor garage, to spend 5 grand on new paint just to have it sit outside under a car cover isnt wise IMHO. Plus i only drive it on the weekend so it would be a bad financial move right now.

My question is, could i prolong the life or stop future rust by applying bondo myself?

Im not looking into any professional work. In fact i couldnt care less if i did a noob job on it. I just want something that will slow down or maybe stop the rust process. If i can buy myself another couple of years til i go to a real body shop for body work and paint, then i would be extremely happy. I just wanna do what i can now to save some life, then cover it with mudguards.

So in the end, my "bondo work" wouldnt even be seen.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Here is the driver rear side. Not that bad.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e3...1621505271.jpg



Here is the passenger rear side. REALLY bad. Theres already a quarter size hole there. If i take a hammer and hit it slightly, the whole corner might just break off!!! :( Im soo sad right now.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e3...1621822440.jpg

Probably would've been better to post it in 3rd gen section, Rob. Well 1st or 2nd could be even better, since most are rusted :rofl: .

theres lots of rust convertor products out there,most of them you knock off the loose,scaly stuff and brush it on,that should halt any further rust in that section,most of them you can apply paint and body filler over,look for something along those lines,eastwood also has some good products POR-15 is one of the best known

Yeah, i mean the area will be covered by my new mudguard but i want to stop future rust from forming. I dont really care what the job looks like, if its done unprofessionally etc. I just want to do a quick fix now, so i can throw the mudguard back on.

Hopefully it would buy me another couple of years til i bring the car to a real bodyshop to have it freshly painted.

My experience is that the best is to take the paint off in the area, remove ALL of the rust and take the metal down to "white" metal (meaning NO remaining rust at all). Then you want to put an anchor profile on the steel with coarse sand paper and prime with a good metal primer and finally topcoat with touchup paint the same color as the car (probably a few coats followed by clear coat and a good wax). As this is on the edge of the metal panel, you want to take care and wrap your cleaning procedures and finish around the easily visible surfaces and inside the fender well and under the panel. I know this sounds like a lot of work. This is what will stop the problem for now. Remember that Rust Never Sleeps. In any job like this, the old adage about surface preparation being the key is really true. You should spend most of your time prepping the area and very little of your repair time actually finishing the area. The bottom line is that there is no substitute for getting the metal surface clean!

As previously posted, the phosphoric acid based conversion coatings can help render the fine remaining specks of rust dust "harmless" that remain after you remove the big stuff by converting them from iron oxide to iron phosphate. In some cases, these conversion coatings are incorporated in a good metal primer and can actually enhance the service life and adhesion of the coating you put on top of it.

Do not panic from the rust you see. The good news is it looks like you caught it early. Remember that rust is iron oxide so it takes up a lot of volume. In fact, for every one mil (one one-thousandth of an inch) of metal that is removed in making the rust, it forms 7 mils of rust itself. So, be glad you found it when you did. Good luck!

Thanks for the advice!

So in simple terms i have to:

-Remove big chunks of rust AND sand down surface rust to smooth finish.

-Apply por-15 over the metal

-Apply my bondo (por-15 site said i can use bondo after or before it, i prefer before so i can use bondo and sand that down to a smooth finish)

-Then primer?

-Then color paint

-Then clearcoat

????

Does that procedure sound right??

Again, im not looking for show results. This worked area will be coverered by my new mudguard anyway. I just dont want the same surprise or even worse when i get real body work done a couple of years from now.

Thanks again to all.

I would sand with coarse sand paper after getting the surface smooth to create a rough profile for the primer to bond to. I would also apply the primer before the bondo. If you really do not care how it looks, you do not have to cover with clearcoat to save some time and steps - just not too costly and should not take much longer after doing all the "dirty" work already.

I understand that it is a lot of work, it is just my opinion that cutting any corners will shorten the longevity of your repair and not protect your car properly.

I hope this gives you years of protection and enjoyment.