Video Log Of The Restomodding Of My '76 RX-5 Cosmo (New Vid Jan 5/2023)
#27
Displacement Replacement
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good work so far Aaron.
that engine is pretty damn clean for its age!!!
hopefully the internals look the same
whats the mileage on the chassis???
you should check out Ocean Metallic Blue. I had my mx3 painted that colour. it was really sweet in the sunlight it would glow bright blue but in the shade it looked darker. I loved that colour
its almost a pepsi blue
that engine is pretty damn clean for its age!!!
hopefully the internals look the same
whats the mileage on the chassis???
you should check out Ocean Metallic Blue. I had my mx3 painted that colour. it was really sweet in the sunlight it would glow bright blue but in the shade it looked darker. I loved that colour
its almost a pepsi blue
#28
Mmm, Tacos..
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#30
Engine, Not Motor
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you should check out Ocean Metallic Blue. I had my mx3 painted that colour. it was really sweet in the sunlight it would glow bright blue but in the shade it looked darker. I loved that colour
its almost a pepsi blue
its almost a pepsi blue
Weird. We had ours for many years and I can't remember any major mechanical problems. It was scrapped when it literally began to fall apart.
#32
Displacement Replacement
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Duplicolor they use to sell it in the big gallon cans at crappy tire but you could get it from any paint shop that can mix it
heres a pic of my old mx3 in the rain, Friggen awesome colour
heres a pic of my old mx3 in the rain, Friggen awesome colour
#33
Engine, Not Motor
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Hmmm...Not dark enough. I'm going with an almost metallic navy blue, with likely a pearl on top. The most important thing for me with paint is depth, which can only be achieved through metallics and multiple layers.
#35
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This is the only picture that I can find that looks relatively close to what I'm thinking of. http://i.ytimg.com/vi/OyiL_WvF1AE/0.jpg
#36
Engine, Not Motor
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That's about the right colour, just a little darker is needed.
I'm editing the next video now but it may be a few days. I'm in the shop today to try and finish cleaning engine parts and then may be busy for the next few days.
I'm editing the next video now but it may be a few days. I'm in the shop today to try and finish cleaning engine parts and then may be busy for the next few days.
#37
Displacement Replacement
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so did the condition of the engine change your plans at all for under the hood?
oldschool 13b turbo with custom fabbed intake would be pretty cool
the OEM 3mm seals would last forever at 300whp 300ft-lbs.
I have the part number for the 3mm solid corner seals,1011-11-321 . but after seeing how they break though, I came up with my own theory why mazda switch to the corner seals with the plug insert. i figure its the same reason why airplane windows aren't square. all the pressure is concentrated in the corner of the 90 degree angle instead of spreading out evenly across the face of the circle. when I disassembled my engine, I had 3 that were completely broken and 1-2 with cracks that broke with slight pressure all in the exact same spot.
HAHAHA like I said thats just my theory
I still ended up using new oem solid 3mm corner seals, new GSL-SE apex springs, and RA 3mm superseals
oldschool 13b turbo with custom fabbed intake would be pretty cool
the OEM 3mm seals would last forever at 300whp 300ft-lbs.
I have the part number for the 3mm solid corner seals,1011-11-321 . but after seeing how they break though, I came up with my own theory why mazda switch to the corner seals with the plug insert. i figure its the same reason why airplane windows aren't square. all the pressure is concentrated in the corner of the 90 degree angle instead of spreading out evenly across the face of the circle. when I disassembled my engine, I had 3 that were completely broken and 1-2 with cracks that broke with slight pressure all in the exact same spot.
HAHAHA like I said thats just my theory
I still ended up using new oem solid 3mm corner seals, new GSL-SE apex springs, and RA 3mm superseals
#38
G35 FTW
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Dark Blue Metallic.
My G35x has a nice dark blue w/metallic in it.
Here is some pictures that actually illustrate the colour. (not my car, mine i stock looking)
Paint Code : BW5
Project looks like it is coming along well..
RT
Here is some pictures that actually illustrate the colour. (not my car, mine i stock looking)
Paint Code : BW5
Project looks like it is coming along well..
RT
#39
Engine, Not Motor
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There isn't much of an appreciable strength difference in 3MM vs. 2MM seals, which makes sense if you consider the pressures involved. But 300HP is trivial for any 13B and I'd expect to get 150K at least out of this engine.
I have the part number for the 3mm solid corner seals,1011-11-321 . but after seeing how they break though, I came up with my own theory why mazda switch to the corner seals with the plug insert. i figure its the same reason why airplane windows aren't square. all the pressure is concentrated in the corner of the 90 degree angle instead of spreading out evenly across the face of the circle. when I disassembled my engine, I had 3 that were completely broken and 1-2 with cracks that broke with slight pressure all in the exact same spot.
HAHAHA like I said thats just my theory
I still ended up using new oem solid 3mm corner seals, new GSL-SE apex springs, and RA 3mm superseals
HAHAHA like I said thats just my theory
I still ended up using new oem solid 3mm corner seals, new GSL-SE apex springs, and RA 3mm superseals
The colour is pretty close, but there isn't any depth. Of course it is hard to take pictures of metallic paint, and a little bit of pearl easily adds depth.
#40
Engine, Not Motor
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Part 3 - Engine Disassembly and Cleaning
Part 3 covering engine disassembly and cleaning has now been posted. When I initially started tearing down the engine and looked through the exhaust ports, I was worried about the condition of the housings. But as soon as I got into the engine, I was pleasantly surprised.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1MXfs_Srs4
Now, what to do next? I think I'll start plugging some holes (antenna, door handles, etc.) in the body. A little bit of light body work to get those juices flowing again.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1MXfs_Srs4
Now, what to do next? I think I'll start plugging some holes (antenna, door handles, etc.) in the body. A little bit of light body work to get those juices flowing again.
#42
400WHP or bust
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Part 3 covering engine disassembly and cleaning has now been posted. When I initially started tearing down the engine and looked through the exhaust ports, I was worried about the condition of the housings. But as soon as I got into the engine, I was pleasantly surprised.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1MXfs_Srs4
Now, what to do next? I think I'll start plugging some holes (antenna, door handles, etc.) in the body. A little bit of light body work to get those juices flowing again.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1MXfs_Srs4
Now, what to do next? I think I'll start plugging some holes (antenna, door handles, etc.) in the body. A little bit of light body work to get those juices flowing again.
Also your "lovely assistant" sounds a lot like Chris Campitelli from CP Racing...
#44
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Also your "lovely assistant" sounds a lot like Chris Campitelli from CP Racing...
#45
Rotary Freak
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Cool, I learned a bit. Admired how you move decisively through the teardown (video editing contributes to that appearance, I'm sure, but still..) - I admit to being prone to "analysis paralysis" - thinking too much about the best way to do the job, instead of just fookin' doin' it.
Never seen a thermal reactor before - heard of them, and that they were prone to backfires, and ferocious heat that kills engines, so I'd have to think on a rotary the backfires would be spectacular or frequent, and getting rid of is an excellent choice. Good riddance to bad rubbish, eh? With the age of the car, I assume it's emissions/e-test exempt and you won't have to have a cat to re-cert it?
Never seen a thermal reactor before - heard of them, and that they were prone to backfires, and ferocious heat that kills engines, so I'd have to think on a rotary the backfires would be spectacular or frequent, and getting rid of is an excellent choice. Good riddance to bad rubbish, eh? With the age of the car, I assume it's emissions/e-test exempt and you won't have to have a cat to re-cert it?
#46
Displacement Replacement
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nice junkyard score!!!
shouldn't that have the solid corner seals?
How were the Irons? do the 12a's have the coolant oring grooves on the rotor housings too?
what engine set up do you have in mind?
shouldn't that have the solid corner seals?
How were the Irons? do the 12a's have the coolant oring grooves on the rotor housings too?
what engine set up do you have in mind?
#49
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Cool, I learned a bit. Admired how you move decisively through the teardown (video editing contributes to that appearance, I'm sure, but still..) - I admit to being prone to "analysis paralysis" - thinking too much about the best way to do the job, instead of just fookin' doin' it.
Never seen a thermal reactor before - heard of them, and that they were prone to backfires, and ferocious heat that kills engines, so I'd have to think on a rotary the backfires would be spectacular or frequent, and getting rid of is an excellent choice. Good riddance to bad rubbish, eh? With the age of the car, I assume it's emissions/e-test exempt and you won't have to have a cat to re-cert it?
While the Cosmo will not require an e-test, it will receive a modern high flow catalytic converter. This is to control the stink, quiet down the exhaust and just be in general nicer to the environment.
I think the only factory Mazda non-race engine to use solid corner seals was the 10A and VERY old dual dizzy 12As (with dual side seals). Mazda very quickly went to the superior two piece seals with the rubber plugs to both improve upon sealing and eliminate chatter.
How were the Irons? do the 12a's have the coolant oring grooves on the rotor housings too?
what engine set up do you have in mind?
what engine set up do you have in mind?
The housings are nice mainly because they are basically new. So that means no grooving or chrome flaking, no scratches, hardly any wear at all. They have very, very few miles on them. Likely well under 1000. I really lucked out with these because if I had needed housings, I probably would have had to drop $1000. In that case I would have just bought a whole j-spec short block and then swapped the Cosmo front cover and oil pan onto it.