20b prices
 

I have been MIA for awhile, and it seems that the 'scene' has changed. With a large influx of RHD cars, I would think that there are an abundant amount of parts lying around. It appears that there is simply more cars and less parts apparently as prices seem to have been driven up.

That leads me to my inquiry. I was on one of those JDM websites and saw that the listed price for a 20B was $6500 fully dressed with the automatic transmission. Is that the current going rate? It seems like 2-3 years ago that would have been $2500.

I am currently baffled, and am not doing a bunch of research into it, as I am currently not in a position to start doing an engine swap. But are people paying this much? Is this the cost of going 20b nowadays?

I would say at least this much.
Everything has gone up. Parts have become scarce.
Going to be tougher to keep these cars road worthy....

Sounds about right. They didn't build many 20Bs, and haven't built more in a long time.
I bought my 20B last year when I found the right deal. Have no intention of using it for another 2+ years, but, I figured by then I might not be able to find one, or, afford it if I could.

It's going to be difficult to avoid going piston with those prices. I know it wasn't a terribly popular engine, only being on one production car. It just seems like I could probably get a cosmo here for the same price as just the motor. I am just a bit surprised. I don't think a 20b is in my future.

a 20b was never $ 2500 , not even 15 or 10 years ago.

That was the 13b RE out of the cosmo that was around $ 1500-$ 2500 and now a days they fetch $ 3000-$3500 at some JDM dealers.

The 20b a series A would be in the atleast $ 4000 from a dealer back in the day and usually going for $ 4500-4900 .

A good condition D series would be a bit more.

They have gone up, but as noted there was only small run of the 20bs, I was in montreal last month or so, saw a 20b . they wanted $ 7500 Canadian ! . but then again, they also wanted $ 9,000 for 2jz 6 speed swap ( that use to be $ 6,000 ).

and yes, 13b is where its at, if not any flavour of swap motors .

I didn't realize there was a difference between the 20B production runs.

I found the following useful info:

Early vs. Late Series 20Bs: https://www.rx7club.com/20b-forum-95...s-20bs-387986/

20B Series Information: 20b series information - NoPistons -Mazda Rx7 & Rx8 Rotary Forum

I may very well be mistaken on the price, but that is what I recall when I was creating a budget for it. There was a large influx of jdm suppliers at one point down here, and competition may have been more significant then that in Ottawa.

Either way, it's irrelevant. $6500 for a motor you need to rebuild just seems outrageous to me. I looked on Ebay, and saw them for close to 9. It just seems nuts.

Yap, hp to dollar they dont make sense anymore. You build a 20b due to wanting that rotary love . I still would love a 9.7 comp non turbo 20b build. 300 hp all day yummmyyy ! .

But not happening for me anytime soon unless 649 appears in my books ( and i guess i would need to buy the lotto to win it ) .

if its going into FC, there is tons of swaps available. Its so easy now compared to 10 years ago.

Choose a motor you like , theres probably a mount kit.

Ive seen miata 1.6 motors in FC , miata 1.8 motrs in FC , K20 , K24 F20c , any variation of LS , 1jz 2jz 1uz .

I think a great swap would be the vq35 or 37 with the 6 speed . But then again a 2003 to 2005 350z will be cheaper than the finalized swap.

LS would be the cheapest route IMO.

Either way, it's irrelevant. $6500 for a motor you need to rebuild just seems outrageous to me. I looked on Ebay, and saw them for close to 9. It just seems nuts.

Hah! Shop for a used "run of the mill" LS7 that was in one of the 29,000 '06-'13 Z06s.

Less than 4,000 20B Cosmo cars were built between '90 and '95 and sold only in Japan plus all the rotary guys want one.

Not just in cars, either. Somebody might put it in a plane or a boat.

I paid $5500 6 months ago for a good core seems like a decent deal. Compared to the average market lately. If either the crank or center iron gets damaged beyond repair. Then at least we have the options to move to billet replacements. The cheapest late model 20b ive seen the last 10years have range from 3500-4500. Condition being unknown is the ultimate risk.

lets just drop this here:


ohhh you dirty 20bbbbbbbbbb

Pretty much exactly my plan. High compression (maybe RX8 rotors, we'll see) N/A 20B with ITBs. Should be between 300-350whp. Perfect.

I pretty much stole my "most of a 20b" (no housings) and I'm not in a hurry, so, don't need a lotto win I hope.

That run of the mill LS7 goes for about 10 USD. The amount of vehicles set up for that swap are endless as well. I would also bolt in one of those motors without the rebuild.

My question has been answered anyway. When I saw the price tag, I was thinking it was a crack pipe price, but from the sounds of it, it's a deal.

At this point with the price of a 20B, and the availability of 4 rotor kits, the gap between the two is narrow enough that 4 rotor looks almost on equal footing price wise. That is, if the fab work to build the 4 rotor intake/exhaust is considered as hobby time. NA 4 rotor, putting out plenty of power for the street, burning cheap 87 octane...

Geez... Sounds pricey lol and here I am trying to figure out if i can remove a rotor and housing to save money :lol: or just wait for the rear to blow and tada money saved.

20b's for 6 Thousand dollars?...

....Buy a Vowel......

With 20Bs on eBay at $6000 that need rebuilding anyway, and 4 rotor kits around $7000 - $8000, it just seems like it's not a choice of money between the two. True, you still need the housings, rotors and a few other parts to make the 4 rotor kit into a short block. But realistically, anyone doing such a project is likely to have those items anyway and it's not like 2 NA 13Bs are exotic money at the auto wreckers. Figure with the 20B you're going to need a manifold, turbo, intercooler, wastegate (s), BOV while the 4 rotor needs a header and set of ITBs. Building a PP or side port wraparound manifold isn't hard nor expensive. Doesn't need an exotic EMS, makes 500HP all day long on a conservative tune on 87 octane...

If I was going to make that choice, I really wouldn't consider the 20B unless the car I'm putting it in dictates my choice via engine bay room.

And what people don't realize is the engine is still the cheap part even at that price... I have to constantly explain that to customers, the engine itself is meaningless compared to the rest of the build unless your going poor man's n/a.

thewird

I'm leaning towards high-budget NA my self, but, yes, you do have a point. :)