twins
 

After alot of thinking i came up with an idea that i thought would be cool to try and want other peoples opinion on. Now i know that atleast one person is gonna tell me to just t2swap it. But i want to be different. I wanted to do something that no one else has done. Atleast that ive seen. So here it is. I have an 88 gxl and u want to run low boost in my stock motor. Now i could just geta t2 turbo and such and just adapt it to my 6port but i thought hey! Why not run the stock twins from an fd on my na fc. I personaly think that it would be kinda cool see the sequential setup on a 6port and it would definatly give it some balls. Any thoughts?

Thanks

It'd be an interesting project, though you'll run into a few hiccups with controlling the twins. Simplest solution would be to get a FD ECU. Most sane solution would be a standalone though. I'd personally go for a standalone to have a fresh, un-baked harness.

The main issues you'll encounter that I can think of at the moment are fluid related. NA engines don't have provisions for turbo coolant feed and return, nor oil feed & returns. Coolant is simple enough to tackle, just drill & tap (CAREFULLY!) the rear iron for feed & water pump housing for return. As for oil, the returns would probably have to be straight to the pan. As for a feed, you can get it from the oil cooler in lieu of the front iron port.

Thanks for the input! :)

My other though was to build it na by doing a bridge port running fd injectors and rx8 rotors and e-shaft

I have twins and a stock fd ecu ;).

But I too contemplated running rx8 rotors on my build. However, the problem I came into was finding the rotors within range and within a reasonable price.

Also, why run the fd injectors? Why not just run some ev14 or id injectors with different fuel set-up?

I really enjoy N/A motors. A high compression bridgeported n/a would be nice. Run a EWP set-up to make some people confused while cleaning up your bay.

So you'll need two feed lines for the twins to work if I recall the n/a kegs correctly (the front and the rear irons are where two of the feed lines are on an FD).

Good luck with your build!!!


-Nick

Get a sandwich plate on the oil pedestal, then get a Y adapter to feed oil to both turbos. draining would be the interesting part.

thanks alot. due to budget reasons I have decided to stay na for now. reason for the fd injectors is because i know a guy 15 minutes from my house who specializes in parting out jdm cars. and i can get a set of fd injectors for 20 bucks. and i also know a guy with a set of rx8 rotors for fairly cheep. ithink in the not so distant future im going to boost it aswell. but for now just going to stay N/A

cheers

I have a rew e-shaft. how easy would it be to put in my 6port

I think you will find 6 port induction and sequential twins are mutually exclusive due to trying to occupy the exact same spot on the engine with no where else to go.

Now, I am sure you can use a TII lower manifold ported to flow to the 6 port block and space the twins out to fit with the lower intake manifold (FD moved the intake manifold up and uses a 45 deg bend instead of 90 deg bend into the motor to fit the twins).

Then you just have a messy compromise of a motor (late port closing all the time with small runners/poor entry to the ports limiting top end flow).

It will work fine, but it will have zero advantages over a 4 port motor and several complications and limitations.

In my opinion, it will be fine for ~300hp and once you want more than that it would be better to ditch the whole set-up and go 4 port at which point you wasted a bunch of time/effort trying to make something unique.

Easy, it's a direct fit, but pointless, since it's essentially identical to the one that's already in there.

You'll need to have RX-8 rotors machined to accept the taller 13B apex seal.

FD injectors are side feed. FC injectors are top feed.

I highly suggest NOT running boost on the 10:1 RX-8 rotors on a 13B. Not unless you intend to run 100+ octane fuel.

A 6 port turbo NA is going to require a standalone to make anything but a trivial power increase and stay reliable.

Im pretty sure that it is the same as the 13bt which i beleive are both lighter than the N/A shaft

I have heard you can safely run up to 8 psi on premium in the rx8. Never the less. im staying na. and thanks for the tip on the injectors. i didnt realize that. one more question.for porting should i go with a S.P. a B.P. or a P.P.? What are the advantages of each and which one would give me the most power.
thanks

The RX-8 is a different car than the RX-7 and has a completely different port arrangement as well as engine management 35 years newer. One thing to consider is that "8 PSI" is safe but for how long and in what conditions? I also put 8 PSI in quotes because alone it doesn't mean much. 8 PSI from a GT12 is worlds different than 8 PSI from a GT60.

The TII eccentric is exactly the same as the NA eccentric. There is no weight difference and as far as I know there is only a slight weight difference on the Renesis shaft. It is however so close to the center of the spinning circle that it makes basically no difference.

Peripheral porting will give you the most power. With a full peripheral port NA, running high compression rotors (S5 NA, modified Renesis), balanced and built for 10,000 - 12,000 RPM, and on a good tune, will put out over 400HP on '87 octane. Of course it will be louder than God himself farting, require the entire drivetrain to be upgraded, and necessitate a scratch built intake manifold as well as a bunch of other smaller/easier mods.

This is probably not what you want.

If you are on a budget and this is your first build then a simple street port is easiest, will result in a modest (20% or so) power gain and will run on the stock ECU.

Nothing you can do to that NA engine short of a bridgeport (and as it follows, P-port) or adding boost will require you to upgrade the injectors beyond stock.

every FC uses the same E shaft, look up the part number.

the FD adds a little extra bearing clearance at the rear of the rear main bearing, and the Rx8 uses 4 balance holes instead of 3, so its a bit lighter.

with no turbo the PP will give the most power, followed by the bridge, and then the street.

the PP is a little harder to setup, as you can't use any part of the stock intake, or eCu, or exhaust. intake usually needs to be custom, although its 2 pipes. its very simple, power is excellent everywhere, mileage is good. it isn't very happy putting around, and there is no way it'll pass an emissions test. it makes any other port look flabby and weak.

the BP is easier to setup, as you can use any off the shelf manifold. the port template, and intake you pick have a HUGE impact on the power curve, as all the parts of the combination need to work together. if they do you will make big power, and have something that will run nicely, if you don't you'll end up with something angry. IMO a smaller bridge will be easier to get right, and a big bridge will be more picky about what you bolt to it.