eage8

iTrader: (9)

that sucks... was it a turbo diff or a NA?

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

Complete NA drivetrain. I'm gonna stick with it, too since it's a lot cheaper to come by than the turbo bits. Plus this car isnt even meant for drag. It's kind of weird how the drag racing has sucked me in...always trying to get that little bit faster. Plus its only $20-30 to race instead of $300 for a track day.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

That's why they invented autocross

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

You have a point. Maybe that will be my go-to for next year. This house thing is going to be expensive

SDrotary-FC

I hear ya drag racing is like crack...plus i dont have to pick up anybody's cones..haha

Just stockpile up n/a diffs n swap um out

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

Yeah I think thats the plan.

I just purchased this from jdmparts.rupewrecht.com (also has a facebook page). Old school Mazdaspeed logo - period correct for the FC and BF 323. I havent been able to find any info about it. Anyone have any leads? I love the fact that its period correct

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

Weather was beautiful on Saturday so I took advantage of it and tore out the subframe. I had Z E R O issues getting it out. it was wonderful not having any rusty or stripped bolts. Once we got the diff out it was clear to see that the spider gears got destroyed. I also cracked open my spare LSD diff I have and it appears to be a clutch style diff. When I purchased it, it had one broken stub shaft. I compared my open diff ones to the LSD diff shafts and they dont look like they are the same diameter. Mazdatrix listed S4 NA LSD/Open diff shafts as the same part number. Does anyone have a picture of the S5 vicous diff so I can compare? Maybe I have a viscous unit...

My goal is to get the whole rear assembly refreshed and slide it back in. I am contemplating getting it powdercoated, but then again who the heck will see it? What are the must haves when refreshing the rear end? I am lost at where to begin because I dont know who makes what replacements!

eage8

iTrader: (9)

Viscous diffs have one short shaft and one long one. Post pictures of the diff and shafts... Maybe its a tii diff

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

I will take pics tonight.

Since you are a suspension guru maybe you can answer my questions.

Im going to get battle version adjustable camber arm as well as adjustable lateral links to allow toe adjustment, mazda comp front and rear diff bushings and oem mazda subframe bushings.

What bushing do I need to use for the suspension arm? From what I have read, if I get adjustable lateral links, a polyurethane bushing will bind the arm. I dont see factory rubber bushings available for the suspension arm.

I am referring to the bushing that is right behind the subframe mount seen below.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

Ok.

Just to be thorough you know you can adjust rear toe without adjustable toe links right?

for the rear control arm bushing I have an AWR spherical bearings.
Bearing Kit - Rear Control Arm - 1986-1992 RX-7 - AWR Racing Store

I'd either use one of those or replace with new OEM ones.

Part number for the contorl arm bushings is FB01-28-460. You'll need 4 of them, they're sold in halves.

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

Doing some brainstorming....when I tracked the car at Pocono, I couldnt control my coolant temp all that well. I think it was mostly due to my lack of side-protection at the time on the vmount. My other concern is this radiator hose. I am wondering if the shape of the current hose is causing a restriction. I also have the oil cooler sitting right in front of the radiator blocking the lower portion. Would it be wise to move that lower? I figure I should add a second oil cooler as well.

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

So upon closer inspection, I either do not have a S4 N/A LSD or Mazdatrix lied about both S4 N/A open diff and LSD using the same part number. The new diff came with a broken shaft, so I assumed I could use the open diff as a replacement. Apparently this was not the case...The shaft on the left is from the open diff, the rigth is from the "S4 N/A LSD"




My new horn button finally came in, Looks much better than the white horn button in my opinion!

eage8

iTrader: (9)

I just looked at the mazdaspeed catalog and as far as I can tell all NAs that aren't S5 LSDs have the same stub shafts....

post a picture of the diff.

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

I have confirmed its a S4 Turbo LSD.
My Saturday consisted of selling my 2.5 inch Racing beat exhaust setup to a friend and helping him install it. He gave me his old catback...Looks like a Corksport 3 inch. I may have it modified to mount up to the RB Rev TII setup that will be going in shortly. I plan on comparing the single vs dual exit in power/responsiveness



Then on Sunday I put in a Turbo diff for a friend. My payment was his old NA diff so now I can get my car rolling again. the LSD may have to wait. The good thing is I am no longer afraid of dropping the subframe. It really isnt that hard when you have plenty of jacks. I am looking for turbo 2 sway bars now that I know they are thicker than the base model bars as well.

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

P.S. Any tips for how to clean up the Corksport exhaust and make it shine?

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

Steel wool. Or a wire wheel/brush, but it's just going to corrode again.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

It's probably T409 stainless... so yeah, that'll happen. Does a magnet stick to it?

88fc3sT2

iTrader: (1)

Steel wool + mag & aluminum polish ought to do it.

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

I took advantage of the above-freezing temps to work on the car. New diff in the subframe, put the subframe back in the car, and changed the sway bar endlink bushings. Now I wait for eage8's exhaust!

P.S. Does anyone know which direction the end link goes when in the car? I put the larger end on the bottom.

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

Im really excited about this piece! Its a passive keyless remote system so no buttons need pressed. The black card you see can be put in your wallet and when you are within 3 feet of the car it will auto unlock. They have a push start module but I opted to save the $150 since I didnt see the need for push start, or the remote start feature...To go with this, if the car does not see the card it will not allow you to start the engine! I will be doing a write up for this in the next days/weeks since the weather is supposed to be above freezing.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

just a heads up. FCs don't have a power lock actuator on the drivers side, just the passenger side... so you're going to have to fix that

other than that it looks cool

I've always thought remote starts on manuals were super sketchy... (I always leave my cars in gear)

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

Sadly mine did not come with door actuators in either door. I ordered a pair of DEI 524N actuators and a relay kit from amazon for roughly $35. I just came across this piece today that I plan on adding. It will give the car that bmw/lexus "beep" when locking or unlocking the car.

KP Technologies

BrettLinton7

iTrader: (33)

Very cool, I test drove a car recently with a similar unlocking feature, but it used a heat sensor or something on the inside of the door handle to unlock the doors.

I added a keyless entry and remote start unit to my FC a few years back- if you needed any help with the wiring, I did a brief write up that might help you.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...1401-a-939884/

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

Funny thing is - Thats exactly what I planned to follow to wire everything in I did want to ask if you know the ignition switch wiring. My kit came with a ignition relay kill switch so if the proximity card is not within range of the car, you cannot just turn the key and start the car.

Looks like the only factory wires I need to find under the dash are the horn and flashers. Then I'll need to run wires into each door for the actuators and find a place to mount the unit itself as well as its antennas.

The heat sensor sounds very cool. Have you ever seen the Tesla door handles? They sit flush with the car and when you walk up to it, they pop out for you to grab.

BrettLinton7

iTrader: (33)

Very cool, I didn't know that about the Tesla.

I actually uninstalled my remote start system over the weekend since I'm getting rid of my car. If I remember correctly, I only had 3 wires that tapped in to the ignition switch wiring:

- Solid black was always positive lead (gave power to the remote start unit)
- Giving + to the black/yellow stripe wire gives power to the ECU/engine accessories/HVAC
- I never hooked this up, but giving + to the solid blue wire gives power to the stereo/wipers/windows/etc. I liked this disconnected since the radio/wipers and stuff wouldn't turn on until the key was in the ignition switch and turned over.
- Giving + to the black/ red stripe wire triggers the starter.

I would assume that the kill feature of your system involves cutting the black/yellow stripe ignition wire and putting that kill relay in between it. So the ECU/accessories wouldn't get power unless your card thing was in proximity and the kill relay was making the appropriate connection.

I don't know all the terminology for everything, I taught myself, so sorry if what I wrote is confusing... Feel free to PM me if you need anything. Also, I think I know you from Reddit...