S5 RX7 Turbo 2 Rebuild
 

Here's the story.... a year ago my s4 t2 motor blew due to the oil cooler lines bursting on the freeway. Rather than rebuilding the s4 t2, I decided to get a used jdm s5 t2 motor. Had lucky7 put it all together and sold most of the s4 t2 parts I had laying around. Was running like a champ but it had over boost issues so I took it back to lucky7 and they ported the wastegate for me. Overboost issue resolved. I'll admit that I drove the car pretty hard at times and might have contributed to the motor dying out. I always checked all fluids before driving, changed the oil every 2500 miles, replaced spark plugs when needed but still something was wrong. The idle would not hold anymore so I did a compression check and sure enough the rear rotor had bad numbers. I was hoping that the front rotor and housing would be straight since it threw out 85 psi. So me and a couple of guys pulled the motor out and sent it to lucky7 to get rebuilt. I gathered all the parts needed for the rebuild and handed them over. Sure enough, when they took the motor apart, they told me that the rotors and housings were destroyed. The oil pump was also bad. Oh no right? Had to spend an extra 900 bucks for some s5 t2 rotors and housings they had laying around. Well, I decided to post up some pics for you guys. First here's a list of parts I got for the rebuild.

S5 RX7 Turbo 2 Rebuild Parts
Rotary Aviation Classic 2mm apex seals + springs
Atkins Rotary side seals
Atkins Rotary side seal springs
Atkins Rotary FD corner seal springs
Atkins Rotary O-Ring kit
Atkins Rotary thermal pellet
Racing Beat exhaust manifold gasket
Racing Beat intake manifold gasket
Banzai Racing OMP block off kit

On to the pics....

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/2558/gzintlshop093.jpg

http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/6...ntlshop094.jpg

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http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/2...ntlshop097.jpg

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Removing the motor was not hard at all. Removed the radiator, fan shroud, strut bar, intercooler, piping to the turbo, starter, alternator, all the hoses connecting to the engine, disconnected the sensors, unbolted the transmission, used the breaker bar to separate, and that's all I can think of at the moment. Only issue we ran into was bringing out the harness through the firewall. Will at lucky7racing told me unbolt the kick panel on the passenger side and it should be cake. He was right! Unbolted the kick panel, disconnected all the sensors inside, and slipped the harness through the firewall. For some reason I did not take pics of the motor when it was completely out :scratch:

The motor is at lucky7 racing as we speak and they have sent me pictures of their progress. Lucky7 racing has a reputation of putting together some of the finest rebuilds this community has ever seen. I trust that they'll do a good job. I'll post up pics they sent me later and more pics of the installation of the motor. Till then..PEACE!

What kind of thread is this?

its a thread sharing my first removal, rebuild, and installation of a rotary motor. is there an issue?

I think this belongs to 2nd gen build section, anyways good luck on your build

thread nazis...

is it really that cumbersome in the west section where he lives?

For sure Karack. West up! Just trying to contribute. Here's some pics of the damaged rotors and housings.

https://s7.postimage.org/5gb7xk62v/rotor.jpg

http://s13.postimage.org/z48ldl7f7/rotor_damage.jpg

https://s7.postimage.org/5ucjx5q6j/housing.jpg

The motor took a crap and was way worse than I thought it would be. It's killing me financially but rotaries are where it's at. Will post up more pics of the replacement housings and rotors later. They look almost brand new. I know I'm going to run into issues re-installing the motor. Just hope nothing too bad shows up. Gotta take pics of the rust inside the engine bay too. Gotta remove that before putting the motor back in. Thinking about taking it REAL easy breaking the motor in before putting on a Mishimoto FMIC, Nissan Quest E-fan, relocating the battery, Apexi BOV, and Apexi power FC. Trying to do things right and not blow another motor up.

Its just awkward to see this posted here. The title needs to be different. FC T2 rebulid/ pics and share thread. Or something on along those lines.

Don't forget about the all important FCD to prevent another rebuild.

True that, FCD is already on there.

Btw: you're right, this should be moved to the build section. Anyone know how to move it?

I can move it for you. Just let me know when you would like it moved. I can also change the thread title to something else if you want to keep it in the West section.

Here's pics of the rotors and housings. The housings looks real clean. Everything coming together nicely. Will post up pics of the motor all put together next.

http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/3...shhousings.jpg

http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/8674/freshrotors.jpg

http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/9...rinhousing.jpg

http://img859.imageshack.us/img859/9...inhousing2.jpg

Here's some pics of the motor all put together and ready to be picked up.

http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/7987/13btrebuilt.jpg

http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/4...btrebuilt2.jpg

Told them to re paint it with stock silver and black. The compression checked in at 110. Will get more pics up of the install. Hopefully this sunday :nod:

you guys should not be running engines without the front stack bolted together. the e-shaft will be running on the irons shedding metal into the bearings.. rotating a few revolutions, not a big deal, cranking a few hundred for a compression test, no.

and invest in some engine stands, my shop is smaller than yours and i have several. it looks redneck and trashy assembling a $2k engine for someone on a 5 gallon bucket.

if i'm referring people your way, i don't want to be questioning myself.

Thanks for the insight, I don't work for lucky7 but I called them and asked. Waiting for the assembler Will to hit me back. I do not want another blown engine due a faulty rebuild.

i know, it was aimed at them. ;)

probably will not be a problem but i cringed when i saw that starter on a semi assembled engine. when you push the e-shaft forward or back and hear that clunk, that is the e-shaft hitting the center iron and it will grind away while spinning.

I thought the bucket was ghetto too. When I saw the pics, I really didn't understand why they placed the motor on it. I thought maybe it was standard practice for rotary builders :scratch:

Got word back from Will and he said that he made a mistake but was caught before he could continue. They checked out everything and said everything is fine. As far as engine stands, I was told that all their engine stands were taken and they didn't want to keep me waiting so they did the rebuild with the bucket. I'm getting a 1 year warranty for the rebuild so we shall see.

sorry to bring up a somewhat older thread but I was wondering how the whole experience was with Lucky 7? I am thinking of having them do a rebuild on my fd

thanks

sorry to take a long time replying. I put the motor back in and just forgot about this thread LOL. damn....didn't even take any pics of me installing the motor in the car. Shit. Anyways, the experience with lucky 7 has always been overall good. If I have any questions, they always help me out. The motor has been running strong since the rebuild. The oil pressure is from 60-70lbs when driving. They did a good job on the rebuild and I feel confident about the motor. Has about 5,000 miles on it and absolutely no issues. Went through the standard break in procedure using castrol gtx 20w50. Now I'm using AMSoil 20w50 synthetic oil with a AMSoil oil filter. Just had the battery relocated by Jeff and his guys @Rotary Power. I'm going to have to post some pics. Hope this reply helped you.

Update:

So the engine has been rebuilt by Lucky7 and has about 10,000 miles on it now. So far, I added a mishimoto fmic with custom piping and threw on the S5 front + rear bumper, S5 N/A hood, and fenders. I dropped it off at the body shop last week. It's going to be painted Porsche Midnight Blue Metallic. They are also adding a S5 Turbo 2 Lip, Turbo 2 replica side skirts, S5 moldings and a rear lip. All the work is being done by Chuys Body Shop in Gardena.

Here are some pics of the car before it got dropped off:

http://i45.tinypic.com/330zfy0.jpg

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http://i45.tinypic.com/35jl5d5.jpg

The car got dropped off at Chuys body shop in Gardena like a month ago. here are some pics of the car at the Chuys body shop. They are going to fix the crack on the front bumper, align the front end, install s5 rear + front bumper, s5 side moldings, T2 Lip, and rear lip with custom modification. Painting it inside and out, i'm going with porsche midnight blue metallic. It should be out by next week. they took off all the lights and necessary body parts before shooting, love that they didn't cut any corners. i should've taken pics of it during prep but i didn't my camera with me. well, i'll take pics of the car when its done. also dropped off my SSR GPO Thetas off at infinit wheels to get reconditioned. that should be done this week or next week. If you want to hit up Chuys body shop call him @310-989-2995 or 310 421 5206. tell him robert with the rx7 sent you :icon_tup:

http://i44.tinypic.com/t5pw76.jpg

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Just got my car back from Chuys. So happy how it turned out. Now im just waiting on my wheels to get re finished by next week and slap them on.

http://i44.tinypic.com/33075ap.jpg

http://i44.tinypic.com/16huog3.jpg

http://i41.tinypic.com/33o1v81.jpg

http://i44.tinypic.com/o8xshi.jpg

Here's a pic of the car with the SSR GPO's on. It's not the best pic but ill add some better ones later. Wheel size are 17x8 in the front and 17x9 in the rear.

http://i41.tinypic.com/344trpy.jpg

Nice!