s4 na 1/2 bridge wont start please help
 

Well everything checks out, but she wont start. she tries, and if I pour alittle gas into the intake she runs. by herself though she just tries to start but not actually start.
new plugs except the trailings are my old but cleaned up leadings.
tps checks out at 9.22*
fresh engine just rebuilt her
does anyone have a clue as to what this could be? Im stumped.
please and thank you.

need more info on your setup

check your egi fuse in the main fuse box by the battery, and main relayfuse. if good disconnect then crank over let engine sit for a day. then hook back up and start her. its def flooded. its new motor so you have to build compresion. also check all vacum hoses. that there are no leaks.

post pics of your motor.

@ beefhole its a s4 everything, ported intake and engine
and some emissions delete.
@ jo rx7 alright ill try that. :)
thanks guys

could be a bad injector, could be bad injector wiring, could be a bad airflow meter, could be a vacuum leak, could be ignition timing improperly set, could be low compression, could be bad grounds, could be a faulty ecu, could be low fuel pressure, could be many many more things.

the fact that it runs when you pour gas into pushes me to think you have a bad injector, poorly or non installed main engine harness ground loop or bad injector clips, neither are uncommon.

thanks karack thats what I was thinking because ecu is good, no vacume leaks, everything checks out. im trying the flood clear then wait tell tomoro. but if she doesnt start I think im just gonna suck it up and get the uim off again. any tips for testing the injectors and harness.
thanks ill post pics tomoro guys

the best method of testing the fuel system integrity is the injection test in the FSM, get some wire and tie the injectors to the rail and use a spare crank angle sensor and spin the gear with the ignition turned on. this will tell you if the injectors are firing or not. if only one is firing then you have an issue with the one that is stagnant. if neither are functioning then i would assume the ground terminal on the engine harness is the issue OR the fuel pump has died during it's hibernation, jumper the yellow test connector at the RF strut tower and you should hear the hissing of the fuel through the lines, if not then something is up with the pump or pump circuits.

the pump checked out fine today. the only thing that is up in the air is weather its the injectors or wires or something i cant think of. thanks a big one man I would never have thought of using a spare cas to test that. good thinking.

https://www.rx7club.com/naturally-aspirated-performance-forum-220/porting-my-first-time-rotary-965537/
more info on the car but i did report it and redo the whole rebuild with new parts.

I didn't read much of the other thread, is this doable on (are you using) the stock ECU?

yea for now

I am unsure if the stock ECU is fit to run a bridge. Perhaps some others can chime in???

You need way more fuel. Put some 550CC injectors in there and it might start. Probably happier on 720s. Takes about 2.5ms of injector time on 720s at 40PSI to just idle my bridgeported 6 port.

their not as big as you guys expect and I just did a little street port on the pri ports, then some bowl work with some small 1/2bridges. I got a buddy who got his to run ok until he went standalone so I think it should run because Iv always qestioned them. which is all im looking for at this point, but just until next month then rtek, big injectors, custom header and a shortend and reworked s4 intake mani or if all this fuel injection gets the best of me im just going carb.
but now that aaron cake says it might not guys got me worried lol ^^^^^^^^^^^ stating to sound really good to me.

Bridgeports, regardless of their size (unless crazy small to be almost useless) cause major overlap and thus massive exhaust pollution into the intake stroke. You need way more fuel to overcome this.

Don't go carb. Carbureted bridgeports suck in every way possible except at wide open throttle. All the bad press that bridgeports get comes from the carburetor, and not the port.

In order to get the most out of those ports, you'll also need to ditch the stock NA intake. Or at the very least, gut the plenum.

AAaon is right about that comment on carbed bridgeports. Seen many 12a full bridge on holley 650's in my day.. and they are not very daily friendly.

wrong you dont need to up your injector size. your stock fuel system is suppling more than enough fuel for your setup. im still running my stock 460cc in my fully built fullbridge and we tuned it to be as fuel efficent as possible and car still runs rich. look up my build and youll see what im talking about. just check over the basics. grounds conectors etc!

your car will run with all the stock mainifolds and injectors. yes going with a full standalone will make it that much better. but for now its fine. look up my build im still using all my stock mainifolds, im standalone now, but still using stock injectors, and mainifolds. all emissions removed.

thanks guys I haven't had a chance to check her out yet, but I got suspended (long story). so im gonna go ahead and check tomoro. jo rx7 thats awesome, but im still going standalone when I get a chance.
@ aaron you've been my hero in the rx7 world ever since I first read about tina. lol so I dont think im going carb anymore on that note. I am gonna shorten the an s4 intake I have around about 20cm or so then also rearrange the dynamic chamber so the tb is on the other side kinda like a tii intake.

checked out the injectors, and there all working. the only thing I can think of now is timing. any tips for setting that on the cas? I messed with it earlier and got better results, but not running yet.
thanks

advance the CAS one tooth at a time and try for a few seconds, could be a pulley issue being that there is 2 pulley sets for the FC with rather drastically different timing results if you mix them up.

that probably happened. two motors in one room both in pieces at the same time lol.
thanks

So yeah, I've tuned a bridgeport or two in my time...

You have a standalone. He has a stock ECU. Big difference. 460CC primaries are fine with a standalone because you can tune any PW you want at idle. This can't be done with the stock ECU.

Any dyno sheets of your full bridge on stock manifolds? I'm guessing ~220 RWHP.

you're generous than me, i'd have guessed less than 2.

I think you are just having a rebuilt Engine low compression moment..In time the Engine will start and run but you will have to DRIVE it to put some break in miles on it..try checking your compression to see what it is it may take a 1000 miles to bring the Engine up to full compression, are you also using one piece seals, if so ,how much Apex seal end clearance did you allow, if the engine was built too loose it may have too much compression loss .... see what shows up....

@959595rotor I did a comp test and got great numbers, also using mazda 2 piece seals.
thanks

lets just get along on here guys.
thanks

i meant 200, because any real setup needs to breathe much better than the stock intake will allow for.

Next.

The next issue would be to check your fuel supply,including the choke if its there ,also check the would double check your Ign timing and spark plugs as well (they should be new) and clean.. if all is correct it...... WILL run

She runs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

and the problem was?

im the happiest man alive now hahaha
thanks guys she sounds beautiful
it was a bad cas, replaced it with a spare and shes awsome

Glad to hear it. Now without question, get some way to monitor A/F ratios like a wideband or EGT, because you'll want to know when it runs lean. You don't have enough injector so you'll need to keep an eye on it. An NA engine won't really just blow immediately and may run right through a lean condition...you'll just find out when your apex seal springs and corner seal springs are flattened.

thanks aaron. im doing a dual egt set up next week along with a nice header, and tags and tires.

actually 240 to the wheels.

glad to hear now post some video of that bad boy.

im trying, but no camera yet getting one soon. thats bad ass you put 240 at the wheels with the stock ecu? what fuel pump? stock injectors?

stock manifolds ;)

there still alot to my build. but a apexi pfc, stock 460cc, walbro fuel pump. but thinking of going to a t2 pump cause still rich as hell with a lean ass tune. enzo racing did the tune.

she runs great and steady, plenty of power for now (hell of alot more than the factory set up :) ). got the header made, but im waiting on taxes to come in for a haltech re and custom intake mani ; then il put it all on there. spins first all the way from 4000 to 7000.
thanks oliver, vids up tomoro.

side note can anyone tell me where the black terminal on the alternator goes? car wont charge ( just trying to make sure its hooked up right before i replace it.)
thanks Oliver

searched alittle harder and found it.
thanks Oliver

soo I got some issues with the tranny that i was hopping someone could helps with. its an auto; park she wants to move, neutral she does move like in first but feels like it draging, the down shifts have gotten kinda random and I cant stop or shel stall. (kinda like the clutch is stuck engaged)
thanks Oliver

you'll likely get no help here for the Auto Tranny issues. i've put engines in 2 auto cars, and it takes ALOT to get them to stock working order... with a bridgeport, you may never get it to work correctly again, The TPS is used for auto shift calculations and you likely have to use more throttle at lower rpms. even completely stock, a rebuild needs more throttle until the compression comes up, using more throttle keeps you in a lower gear, and makes the autos downshift what seems like"sooner"..

5 speed it or go home.... or wait for my RX-8 6 speed-->fc thread.. about 2 weeks from now.

thanks but i plan on going 5spd just not yet waiting on taxes, but it was fine before the rebuild the only thing im worried abut is the first time i started her the the tranny cooler line blew off. i caught it soon, but i just added 2qrts to it and hooked it all up. was wondering if to little/much fluid might be the culprit, or maybe the kickdown cable? i know she holds 2.6qrts .
thanks Oliver :)

there is no kick down cable, .. that would be easy, there are shift charts arranged rpm by TPS... the auto computer controls it all, and they're buggy... if you got time to wait.. the 6 speed will be baller... :D, i may even release a kit to make it easy(bolt-on) for the noobs and wannabe's :D

how much for the 6 speed or hell even a conversion kit? Because I can get all the parts for a tii 5spd for 500 or less. and then whats that cable that goes on the tb from the passenger side?

you have no need for a 6 speed, the 5 spd built for the turboII is pretty fumazing, i've personally seen a 9.85 pass on a stock trans in a 2700 lbs fc.

@ hkp I know how strong the tii box is, but I was just wondering how much for the 6spd kit?
thanks oliver