NA fc rebuild
 

I am starting to upgrade my parts and was wondering if you guys/girls had any tips for the brands I should look up. I want to reach about 250 hp using no turbo. How are the quality of koyo radiators and are there any better brands out there for radiators? Any information about any part would be helpful!

there are fluidyne rads but they are expensive. ive heard good things about godspeed which are on the less expensive end. from what i've read koyos are good if you get the right one, but i've heard of failures with koyos. on the other hand there are plenty of successes with koyos. there is corksport also if you can find one. there are also ron davis rads that apparently are the best of the best or something like that but they are expensive as well.

check out this thread
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...iators-835115/

heres another one
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-arch...dations-31410/

Sounds good thanks for the info

The first brand you should look into is Chevy's LS1 cause you sure as hell won't be getting 250rwhp out of a 2 rotor NA rotary.

Besides, this is kind of backwards.
First you develop the power, then you decide how best to contain it.

Ok well drop the power to 200 hp and could you give some actual advice? There's no way im putting a ls1 in and it doesn't seem like a good idea to build a beast engine and worry about cooling it later. It's not like i have the cash to do every thing at once. What im asking for is advise on how to start and what to start with. I'll worry about turbos and engines after i restore and get it running tip top. I want it to ride well and to be reliable since this is my daily. 86 gxl with no emission controls is what I have. Racing beat exhaust and racing beat suspension. I think thats all the mods everything else should be stock

Actual advice? Go to the NA forums and make the search button your friend.

Also, really, if money is an issue, I'd recommend putting your dough into maintaining the car first. It's always easier to reclaim HP than to make it. Save your money for now until you have a better understanding of what you really want/can get out of the car.

Not saying you'd wanna DD these engines (aside from maybe the streetport), or that these engines haven't had a LOT of dyno time and tuning done to them ($$$), but it can be done.

275whp PP Carbed 13b
230whp STREETport 13b
314whp PP 13B
267hp@flywheel PP 12A

Just a 'the more you know' moment.

I have been reading up a lot on the forums. And I also have a street port so restoring was the way I wanted to go, which was why I was asking about radiators. Thanks for the info though.

By the way those cars are sick!

This wordbrick is schizophrenic.

You can't build a "beast engine" for a "reliable daily driver", pick one or the other.

You want it to ride well and it already has some suspension bits...are you happy with the ride or not?
How about brakes, tires and bushings?

Well i didn't write it thinking i would be critiqued. I was mostly worrying about content.

I wasn't saying i wanted a beast engine either. All i was doing was pointing out that i didn't think that combo was a good idea.

Im planning on changing out the bushing so do you have any recommendations on a brand?

I love my suspension for the amount of power i have, which isn't much but its fun to hit turns in.

Thanks for everyone's time and help

I'd use Mazdacomp bushings, stiffer than stock but very driveable and quiet.

Cool I'll check them out

Thanks

Having had the same intentions as you, my recommendations for your engine are; a K&N drop in filter (no "cold" air intake jobs), big but as quiet as possible exhaust, make sure your auxiliary ports work, do a nice tune up, and leave the rest of the engine be. Run the stock engine into the ground, then when it makes clouds out the tailpipe or blows something else, turbo swap or build whatever later.

And for your radiator questions, I have a Corksport with a 160 degree thermostat and a stock clutch fan. At a two day drift event in 85+ degree weather, my coolant temp never went over 185. Cruising on the highway yields about 162-170 depending on the weather. In the winter, it barely goes over 160. Having no turbo probably helps, too.

Do you autocross or drift or something?

That is basically my plan but I have the to reinstall my auxiliary ports. Thanks for the info on the corksport, I will check them out.

Also does anyone know of a good brand for a clutch and flywheel?

I haven't started either of those yet but plan to start with autocross once my car is up to par.

i wouldn't invest in the real hardcore clutches like the 6 pucks for example unless i was making the HP and torque to require it. there is ACT that gets great reviews around here there's also EXEDY, also there is COMPETITION CLUTCH.

So an exedy stage two 4 puck would be good? Thats the one i was looking at on racingbeat

it depends on how much torque you're putting out and your uses. if you are going to the track get the appropriate one that can handle the torque:icon_tup: someone correct me if im wrong but i'm sure this is the appropriate way to go about getting a clutch.

I wont be going to the track for awhile so ill get the one and let you know how it feels. Thanks again

i can't remember for certain but i remember reading on here that the puck clutches don't like being slipped much unlike the standard full face disc type clutches so the take off may take a bit of getting use to. i've read that puck clutches wear your flywheel down considerably. so i wouldnt recomend them for the street:)
heres a link with some info
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...utches-614665/

Cool i appreciate the link!

So what brand should i be looking at now? Or should i just go stock?

go stock, save the difference for tires, brakes and rear end upgrades

My tires are great and my brakes a good but what type of rear end upgrades were you referring to?

hes refering to lsd's, axles, etc.

I have the stock Exedy clutch and a Racing Beat lightweight steel flywheel. For me it works good for a daily driver. They may also have been referring to gearing changes to the rear end as well. The 4.3 rear from the GTUs is an option.

As someone else said spend some time in the n/a section. I've read over there that 200rwhp is the limit on the stock S5 intake manifolds, S4 probably a little less. There are ITS racecars making 200rwhp on stock ports but they have a lot of tuning time on the dyno. Id invest in a standalone(which is my own plan when the funding is there) and learn to tune on you current engine and start saving for a 13b-re as there are acouple of people making 230rwhp with them and a streetport and custom tuned exhaust and a lot of tuning. Actually both cars were tuned by the same guy. GTOrx7 at Defined Auto Works and used his ports.

another link: https://www.rx7club.com/naturally-as...-gtus-1032737/