While you are ordering the transmission seals, pick up a speedometer gear oring. I like to change that when changing the other seals.

Why replace it if it still works? I cant verify that mine works since I've never driven my car though.

Why are you replacing the transmission seals then?


Good progress, how soon do you think till you swing your new engine in the bay?
Also I have an Excedy clutch in my car and it performs well and is not too pricey.

:icon_tup:

Replacing the seals for preventive maintainence, I've never done them before though last time I had a transmission shop do it since they did it pretty cheap.

I could do the speedo oring , but I've never had any speedometer problems in the past (assuming a bad oring here would cost)

The excedy clutch I'm looking at is the 07067 model its around 150-160 shipped on eBay.

The oring is a seal. It is on the bottom of the transmission where the speedo cable hooks up.

Gotta take out the cable then to remove and put in the new one I'd think then.

No, but the cable just screws on. You remove the single bolt holding in the speedo gear and pull it out. It is easier to change than the other seals and costs less than $5. I've had two transmissions that seeped there. Just trying to help since you will be draining the transmission anyway.

Anyhow, good job on getting the car this far. It will be rewarding to get it going.

Just ordered an exedy clutch , OEM style.

Will be ordering an upgrade for an rtek 1.7 and getting a walbro 255 lph as well.

I'm putting together everything on my Turbo and noticed I'm missing the biggest heat shield on my s5 Turbo.

Contemplating porting the wastegate or just leaving it stock, will have to do that very soon.

You should port your wastegate while its right there. You will be most glad you did.

Wish I had someone to assist me since it'll be the first time I've done it.

I've got a drill to do it with but ill need to buy the bits I need to do it with.

I've read using a die grinder/dremel is best but unfortunately I don't have one.

Don't use a drill, you'll kill it.
They aren't meant for that sort of continuous, heavily loaded duty.

You'll also dull those big expensive drill bits long before you get through the cast iron. Get the dremel and some carbide bits. The dremel is so useful for tons of other projects in the future, too.

I know it's kind of late but you can just buy a heavy duty relay harness from eBay for cheap for your HID setup instead of making one. Just get the right one for the wiring type and bulb size, if I'm not mistaken I believe the stock wiring type is 9004 and the bulb size is H4.

My relay harness is not an eBay one but if you are looking for something of quality and can stand high heat use this one Bi-xenon: 'MotoControl 9003/H4/HB2 - Relay Harnesses from The Retrofit Source Inc.

This is what I use, and it's easy to snake through and install assuming you have a pair of ballast.

I already got regular headlights.

How much is a dremel like 40 bucks?

Just ordered my walbro 255lph and rtek 1.7 ecu woot.

Now ill look into getting an aeromotive adjustable fuel pressure regulator, the heat shield I'm missing on my Turbo, my oil cooler flushed and whatever else can think of that I decide my rx7 can't live without. :-D

I've contemplated going with an aftermarket FPR. What are the advantages of that over the stock unit? My setup is FD fuel pump, stock lines/rails and ID1000 primary and secondaries.

Alright, HIDs are a great visibility upgrade. I run a projector so it also spreads the light without blinding oncoming drivers.

You can get Dremels I believe starting at $40-$50. I got mine for $70, higher speed for quicker cleaner cutting.

Any plans for your build like tracking or just daily driving?

Its aimed towards a daily driver street car with the ability to auto x etc.

Ive already got suspension mods, the next really big upgrade ill need is a better radiator, hopefully the stock after market one I have now will keep up.

Awesome, I plan on the same. Great job so far man!

Decided its time to remove the exhaust so I get the downpipe fixed where the seam broke at the flange, it was all welded together so I had to take off almost the entire exhaust.

I got almost everything I need, just need to port my waste gate, get the Turbo heat shield I'm missing and I can start putting the block together I'm pretty excited.

Exhaust is 2.5" for the most part and 3" in the middle , that should be good for my stock Turbo.

Plan is to run 10psi at the most, I don't believe this top mount intercooler will keep my intake temps low enough at higher boost, unless I find conclusive information show 11 lbs is okay

:lol:fyi. with the stock ECU my result of me removing the smog pump and putting a block plate on the LIM was backfire during decel. Put the pump back on and the valve and backfiring gone. Plus you exhaust don't smell as bad. Negligable power loss by the pump.

ps- you got to find a better home for that car!

My car never had an air pump even when I bought it, its only in that spot because it has nowhere else to be lol, I like having as little as possible for accessories.

I like the spot its in because no one can really see it.

Ported the waste gate until the bit holder refused to hold the bits (cheap tool).

I got the smaller hole opened up a bit but not long after starting the bigger hole the bit holder grinded out the insides of itself where it held the bits.

I figure its still an improvement over stock,my down pipe is 2.5" and the mid pipe is 3" and.then it goes back to 2.5" for the cat back, so boost creep shouldn't be a concern, at least I.hope not.


Attachment 497168



Attachment 497169

Just had some surgery done so dropping the engine in will be delayed until I'm fully recovered, but I plan on getting it done by the end of the month if all goes well.

Draining the gas tank now and need to get the old gas out the lines.

Rotary > Pistons