i had a straight piped n/a with 1 silencer and RB headers it was obnoxious but cruising isnt that bad just anything over 4k

Looks good, specially like the tail light work. good luck with the rest of it.

You think it wouldn't be too bad with the silencer in the exhaust muffler tip? I also still have the diffusers in the exhaust ports so it shouldnt be too bad i wouldnt think.

@DdoubleR: thanks man, I hope it will be good when its all done. Engine gets dropped back in tomorrow then i need to get gas in it and put the premix in too.

I use to run the RB header, straight pipe, to an Apex GT Spec exhaust and it was deifying without the silencer. With the silencer in it wasn't to bad but you definitely tell a different in the power from the extra restriction.

All glory to the Apex GT Spec exhaust deity!

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:D

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almost :D

Wish you would of cleaned up the engine bay a bit more before dropping in the motor, but you can do that later if anything. So far so good man!

Yea no kidding man, I wouldve but my shop teacher was rushing me to get it done. And im just wanting to have it going again. ill just wait until I paint the car to have it super clean. I'll clean it off a little more when I buy new motor mounts.

sick build man! it gives me motivation to the same thing!

thats so sick!

Little more progress.

Need to print more of my FSM so I can torque everything down properly. First start will probably be very rough because it's cold, it hasn't been run since July, and I'm hoping all the vacuum lines are right. Battery might also be a little undercharged. However, it's got all new NGK plugs and wires, pre-mix, a fuel pump switch (to prevent flooding I'm guessing), and a rebuilt intake. So hopefully it starts up and runs good. Ill probably have the starter tested over the weekend as well as possibly the alternator.

I also was hooked up with some industrial grade coolant for free. It's GREEN. Very green. So hopefully it will work well. The new Bosch water pump (crossing fingers) won't have a bad bearing like last time, however, that could be due to installation error.

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As for the oil cooler, I will have to drill out the old bolts and put in new ones. They were so rusted on the old chassis that even with soaking in PB Blaster, they sheared right off. Not a big deal though, cheap and easy fix.

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Also have to pull the harness on this side up through what little room I have. I wasn't exactly thinking when I put the engine back in that it was for this side, so this was a dumb mistake by me.

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And then there's getting the harness back through the firewall... Oh what a PITA that is. Oh well, will get done.



Side note, my power windows go down far easier and quicker than they roll back up. What could be causing this?

i like the gold pulleys alot.

i am liking this Rotary Porn thread

Oil cooler bracket bolts... :(

If that coolant is 100% you have to dilute it with distilled water so it's 50/50.

I am unsure of the saturation level of the coolant. I'm hoping it's already 50/50. If not, then I'll just go buy the Peak coolant I usually use. I hate trying to mix coolant.

What? It's easier than making cereal.

Um, gravity?

Or misaligned tracks.

@Pvill: I know, lol. It's just I always buy 50/50, so it's just annoying to do it. Oh well then.

@clokker: Gotta love the good ole 6.67x10^-11 factor... I dont think that is enough to pull the window down faster than it goes up. I will just check the rails. If anything I'll clean em up and apply some white lithium grease.

If the grease doesn't make a noticeable difference that I'd suspect the slowness is from the old window motors and wiring. Same thing happens to the sunroof motor. I have to give my sunroof a little push to help it open.

I do the same thing. Also, got the sub zero do nothing fluid all removed. Dont have a block off plate but i just capped where the hose would go. the wiring on the driver side is also mind fucking me right now, so I'm trying to figure out how it all goes

Have you taken out the glove box and removed the black AC evaporator box? It makes working under the passenger dash on the wiring nicer.

That I have not... I take it its the white circulate thing under thrre?

If you're describing the thing closest to the passenger side-that's the blower. I've never removed it but I doubt it's more than a few nuts...

Okay. Ill look in the FSM and see if they've got a picture of it. I'm not running AC so don't need the extra weight.

Getting closer and closer every chance I get to work on it. Here it is as of today!

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If you have sharper eyes you probably noticed that I got rid of the cold start fluid reservoir and all things included. Question is, do I need that cylinder thing that was on top of it still? The one that had the cable and vacuum lines next to eachother.

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My aluminum-looking-but-not-really-aluminum radiator :P I will eventually upgrade to a Koyorad, but not until at least my rebuild on my other 6-port.

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It's starting to look like a complete engine bay again!

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Held on by four in-line zip ties for now, have to fix that bracket still. Waiting to get it back on the lift to get at it from a decent angle.

And here is my new shift knob finally finished! I love the new design. Both pieces together are lighter than the previous knob. This one aslo sits nicer in the hand and makes shifting a nicer deal. Also since it's threaded on instead of JB welded, it can be removed easily whenever it needs to be.

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Also since this new design thins out towards the bottom where the knob threads onto the shifter itself, it makes for tying a leather boot on much easier than before. Should also look much cleaner. I expect less noise from it than before too. I need to order the middle boots though from Malloy still.

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