The trans Mazda comp. rubber mounts....how do they compare to the stock mounts? I've read they do have quite a bit more HVN compared to the stock rubber ones...cheers

i didn't notice a difference with the trans mounts, but the engine mounts (different car) did add more NVH than i liked. the alternative is the convertible mounts, they are stiffer than the coupe, but not as stiff as the comp mounts, Engine is FB67-39-040 and the trans is FB67-39-340B

the diff mounts got rid of the rubber bandy feeling of the stock drive train, which was great. the diff is loud, but i have no rear carpets, and my diff has like 200k on it, and came out of a car that ran 12's, so it might be the diff...

i found some old pics, this the REW sub-frame, Paul Ko built this in 1995 when he put an REW in his FC, and after that one was laid to rest (it had bondo on the frame rails!), i used it.
you can see they took inspiration from the FD subframe. this is mid cleanup, it got a fresh coat of black paint. one of the quirks of this thing is that they centered the engine, and while this sounds cool it means that non of the stock parts line up right, i eventually slotted the bolt holes. the Motive Fab mount set is much better

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...93b28b6887.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...86be495599.jpg

this pic is of the extremely rare K2RD AFM block off plate, its larger diameter on the TID side like the stock AFM is.

you can also see one of the fabrication hurdles in the REW-FC swap, the lower radiator hose, the FD is in the center of the radiator, the FC is on the side, and its in a small space and needs 100 degree bends. plus there is an extra heater hose.

i used that 90 degree PVC pipe to get it from the shop to the trailer and the trailer to the house, and it actually worked quiet a while longer than that, solution was to cut the water pump and add a piece of pipe to use the FC radiator and hose

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c238d9c49f.jpg

pics before paint, urban camo! the hood was white and the factory paint peeled right off in sheets and still smelled wet.... obviously i did a little experimenting with different colors/paint schemes, it ended up in the original brave blue, and i've grown to like that color

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1ea750db30.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d716fd60af.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...67432ea1d3.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5ec2e3e4f3.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5ea41f61b2.jpg

the original intercooler setup was an old school Greddy kit, maybe it fit better? its a smaller core, and heavier. it also seems lop sided the front right is a mess of tubes, but then the rest is empty
wiring is the 1v, its half FD and half FC, the FC harness is like 18" longer than the FD so some wires are like guitar strings and the other half are coiled up in bundles. i ended up looking at a ton of JDM cars and realized that they just use the FC harness and add to it, so i did that with V2. V3 will see some sort of ECU and i can ditch all the solenoids i'm not using, basically the expansion harness

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b142bbe4be.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2be50d83bd.jpg

i actually did something! the boost gauge where the radio was, is hard to see so i took a piece of ABS and made a gauge holder for the vent. i could have done a better job, but its better!
as usual the vent looks square, but its not!
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6528d7792f.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e9685e09fc.jpg

the next thing was to replace the cold side IC pipe, it was 2.25", and the new one is 2.5/2.75" and it really woke the car up! in my head the pipe would have been welded together and not just mocked up with the couplers, but i'm not sure it would be installable without those, the angles make it really hard to put on, it needs more silicon in there, someday.
i also removed the HKS RS intake, and just put a pipe in there, it fits better. turbo noise is loud now.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...245cb1119a.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3528e5c704.jpg

and then i washed and waxed it! i tried painting the T2 side skirts too, but the color came out way off....

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...15ad94d763.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...149e48188b.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e2d293e1b7.jpg

Awesome FC, boost gauge looks great too. Thanks for sharing, keep up the good work :)

im looking to do this exact same thing in my 89, and you are the only one I can find retaining the stock FD ECU and wiring

are you using the FC or FD engine harness

anything engine related you kept the FC parts of? like alternator



im planning on running the stock twins non sequential and just deleting as much as I can emissions wise, which you mentioned the JDM ECU being able to handle, how much can be deleted? everything in the block off plate kit? and have you ever ran the stock intake set and OEM piping in the car?

so its using the FD ecu, engine, intakes, alternator, fuel rails and emissions (air pump/ACV), and its using the FC harness, turbo, exhaust and radiator/oil cooler. to mate the ecu up to the wiring i made a little adaptor, although you could buy it too APEXi Power FC Adapter Kit (89-91 RX-7)

to run the twin turbos you need more outputs than the FC harness can give you, so you need to adapt the FD harness to the car, or run a standalone

with the stock ecu you can't delete anything without a check engine light. i'm thinking about a Power FC, because then i can and it would still pass emissions

you mentioned the FD harness was too short? so like you mean the bulkhead of the harness that reaches out to the ECU doesnt reach? do you have a pic of what you mean by chance?


and im fine with a CEL or so, I am worried about limp mode


and I am going to be running them non sequential, so none of the actuators and vacuum lines will exist

and the FC harness your using, is it NA or turbo? usdm or jdm

i think the FD harness will reach, but it is about a foot shorter than the FC harness, weight savings... i used a JDM harness, although it doesn't matter.

ditch the twins, they are a super tight fit and non sequential really blows.

my car passes smog in California, why else would you go to all the trouble of running a stock ecu?

simplicity sake, and cost

I am just fine with starting out at the 255 - 300 range, another $2 - $3k for the standalone, custom wiring and tune
and I already have the turbos and a good downpipe

but then again your on a stock FD ECU with a FC turbo? how? these ECUs arent tunable are they?

everything I look up about the stock twins non sequential it seems good to me, the lag is negligible and people make a little more power than stock

I had full stock setup on my first version of REW swap (find my thread), including stock FD harness/ecu/sequentiall twins with all emissions.
I as well built another car with very similar swap, with exception of running FC turbo instead of twins....again on FD harness/FD ecu

sorry for thread hijack Mike :D

twins aren't simple, and they do not fit very well :)
i'm in the middle of an REW swap on a Vert with the twins and its a PITA

its a good hijack!

can you explain how its a PITA? like just getting the twins in and out?

and im aware I will have to connect the end of the downpipe to the rest of my FC racing beat


im fine with it being a PITA to get in there, as long as its do-able without having to notch, dent or cut the body

is there a build thread for that one too? or some pics of the work?

no, although the twins are a super tight fit. they are complicated, there are a ton of little parts you need and its an FD, they go bad, so its expensive too.

the only real saving grace of the twins is that when its sequential it is FUN, there is nothing else quite like it.

obviously you can do what you like, non sequential twins aren't the easy way

Bolting on the twins is doable, but it's all the supporting stuff that doesn't really fit.
Passenger side of the engine bay gets crowded: Air pump+hoses, two turbo intakes, hot side IC pipe, CCV hose, BOV hose, upper and lower rad hose, airbox.
There are aftermarket solutions to each of the fit issues, but it defeats the idea of doing it with 'stock parts laying around'. All the shiny stuff here = dollar signs.

i'm thinking about an REW to FC FAQ anyone interested?

Anyone reading those lately? :D

apparently not!

Make a Youtube vid of you talking about the car and REW swap process and I will watch it.

Gotta wear those Paul Walker jeans in it.