13B 6-port rebuild!
 

So tommorow I'm pulling the engine out of the car and starting the rebuild, I have a full Atkins rebuild kit with cyro seals. In all honesty probably only needed to replace the coolent seals but if I'm taking the engine apart I'm gonna make everything of known quality.

As it sits now everything is disconnected from the engine sans the two motormounts to the chassis, and the clutch, all bell housing bolts removed with a jack supporting the weight until tomorrow. Starting the thread ahead of time in case I run into issues.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c026956303.jpg

Out of the car!
 

Got it out of the car no problems! Not sure which bolts to use to get it on the stand though??

If you have an adapter, use the big studs on the front iron to hold the engine.

If you don't have an adapter, you should invest in one. They center the engine around the stand's pivot point so it's easy to turn over and access everything. Pineapple Racing sells one which I use without issue, and it includes extra studs and nuts if you happen to lose yours.

Photo of the Pineapple stand in use:
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a6f99cfd11.jpg

If you don't want to buy an adapter (not recommended) you can still jury rig something like the video below, still using the front iron as the support point. It just won't be balanced at all and tipping over will be a real possibility if you bump into it.

Well you were correct, no adapter makes it a pain definitely need to aquire one. Took the intake and exhaust manifolds off, luckily the housing look okay, I was worried after sitting for 3.5 months that they would be rusted or siezed but the preservative did it's job even if antifreeze was mixed in the oil. Looking forward to breaking the engine open for more thorough inspection.

The front rotor 6 port actuator was seized though. Any thoughts on rebuild/repair or is easier just to replace, rear actuator is working fine.

Thanks in advance

Yeah, for the rebuild itself having the adapter is a life saver, since you'll be turning the engine all around to torque the different bolts and what not. I'd recommend buying a rebuild DVD as well, that way you can take your laptop to the garage and do a play-by-play while you work.

Regarding the actuators - you could try spraying some PB Blaster or similar in the hole the rod comes out of. I doubt the solvent would hurt the diaphragm inside. Then let it sit for a few days and see if you can get it to move again. If you can't free it, I have a set that move but otherwise are in unknown condition, I can box them up and ship them to you if you cover the shipping cost.

I already have the rebuild video 👍 watched it many times. Going to see how fast pineapple racing will ship an adapter, might try to get one for rebuild so I only have to disassemble the hard way. Thanks for the offer on the six port actuator, I'll let you know if it doesn't unseize after soaking. Won't be able to work on the motor tomorrow will be at work for 24 hours, so I'll have an update friday. Thanks for all the help.

Have everything off , all that's left is the tension bolts then it's finally time to install all the new goodies. I've heard use vasoline to hold all the seals on the rotors while installing them and covering the housoho in a layer of atf during assembly to lube until the oil pump kicks in.

On a side note one of my omp plastic lines broke is there a preference on the kind of line for replacement, I heard that the fuel lines from rc cars work well but I figured I'd ask here and see if anyone had a better idea!

Thanks in advance

All apart
 

Engine is apart and in the house, looks like a may need new intermediate housing or the repair kit.

EDIT:
Not looking good found more areas where the seal seat has broken thru and chatter marks on the housings... Guess I might be shipping the other engine to cali,... Thanking myself for not selling it now lol.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8e33eb9123.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9d54f54577.jpg

You shouldn't use ATF, especially if the engine will sit for any length of time. It's bad for your seals. Instead the DVD I used recommended a mix of regular 5w30 motor oil and Marvel Mystery Oil.

Sources:
https://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/atftrick.htm
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/whats-red-and-makes-rubber-swell.589256/

See these threads for 2 DIY options:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/rebuilding-omp-oil-injection-lines-348068/

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/diy-oil-injector-lines-%2410-step-step-guide-1044877/

Good luck!

ya that iron is junk. got pics of the housings?

Housing aren't much better, in addition that scarring you can feel waves from what I'm assuming was Apex seal chattering. I'm sending second engine I own's plates and housing s from.ohio out to cali and rebuilding with those .
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4e68a90951.jpg

sounds like a good plan, that housing is shot also

why all the way to cali? If your in ohio, banzai is alot closer to you

I'm from Ohio but I moved to California after joining the military, so all my spares are still in the garage in Ohio 🤣🤣 no garage in California unfortunately. Having housing and plates and rotors mailed in boxes as it's faster and cheaper than frieghting the entire engine. 3day weekend next weekend so hopefully have everything by then. Driving the car cross country in February so time is limited.