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There is only a single Walbro 416 e85 Lift Pump (0 psi) in that internal surge/swirl tank, drawing a maximum of 14.45A @ 13.5v and running 14awg wiring (rated for 18A).
An identical setup with a Bosch 044 has been fine for YEARS. I have 100% faith in Winfield's design here.
Heading into the fab shop tomorrow for updates. Toyota 8" and Fuel Tank should be done. It's going on the lift and we're doing the triangulated 4-link! Yay!
Toyota 8" getting stripped down for Lotus Link configuration and 300M axles being knocked down to fit Turbo II rotors and converting to 5x114.3 lug pattern (from Toyota's 6x5.5" ~140mm). #FFRFabrication #Mazdarati #Toyota8 #LotusLink
Turbo II Rear Rotor & Caliper Setup. Easy OEM solution.
I wanted to clear 15s and get the car dialed on 225/45-15s before going crazy with wheels/huge tires. There's so much that needs to be done before maximizing my tread footprint, it's not even funny.
Turbo II Rear Rotor & Caliper Setup. Easy OEM solution.
I wanted to clear 15s and get the car dialed on 225/45-15s before going crazy with wheels/huge tires. There's so much that needs to be done before maximizing my tread footprint, it's not even funny.
I'm going to have to borrow a set of a buddy's 275/35-15s for test fitment in the rear... That'd be dope if they offered any decent street tires for it! Hehehe. At least it gives me a reference as to what I'll be able to fit.
Because my battery location is SO odd, I'm going to run either an Odyssey PC950 (or 2 if there's room), or a PC1100 with the Phoenix Gold Amplifier, Circuit Breakers, Relays, and 4-Link Channels surrounding them.
*Holy ****, my amp is 23.3" L and my 4-Link is 24" separation. It's going to be TIGHT.*
Ran into a few snags with the fabrication shop expanding, but we should have rear end grafted in, as well as V-Mount setup dialed by September/Early October at the latest.
My new job is taking up a lot more of my time (and actually paying a good bit more than previous jobs), and school starts in late August, so everything is on track.
Injector Dynamics 1300s and 1700s will come with their new pump, which is still in development. So that could be half a year or so...not sure.
Battery and Amp fitment are still driving me nuts, but I'll make it work once the rear end is set up to my specs. Who needs a battery or great sound system when your car handles beautifully and a solid axle setup outhandles 95% of the modern double wishbone/macpherson strut/trailing arm setups?
For now, here are some of the recent Integra (my daily driver) mods:
New Rx-7 Front Badge!
New Sound Deadening for the Integra
Old Blown Speakers. WOW!
Interior before I finalized subwoofer rewire and reinstalled seats.
New Company Stickers!
New Spherical LCAs for the Integra!
Last edited by RGHTBrainDesign; 07-03-16 at 07:58 PM.
Did I forget anything in this build? Kinda tough using mostly circle track parts and converting them over to a smaller car.
Handling is being covered by Paul Yaw, local racers, and I. No swaybars here!
Engine is pretty lame, but with a potent fueling and direct fire package.
Cooling, whether it's from air, oil, or coolant is an order of magnitude or so better than any OEM system.
Wheels/Tires are basic 225/45-15 Square setup and will continue to run square (hopefully upwards of 245) as the car becomes more refined.
So where are we at with Fabrication? It's slow, but the fab shop I'm at just expanded and the car is getting a jig built around it for easier construction. Remember, I'm adding torsional rigidity. It's a canyon carver, and I don't want to die in the case of an accident.
What are your thoughts on sway bars/ lack there of?
I like the idea of an independent suspension and something using my "frame" or chassis as a torsional unit doesn't exactly strike me as smart. There were tests on the FC chassis where it showed weakening/severe flexing of the chassis - probably under one of the "chassis stiffening" threads.
Real World Experience:
What does an anti-roll bar do? It improves AVERAGE grip levels for the driver (more forgiving). What does this mean? It means that Joe-Schmoe can throw his car around and the anti-rollbar will do a great job at being predictable and grip will be very manageable up until a certain point. After about 8/10ths, the car will start to break away less predictably and overall lateral grip is decreased. With the bars removed, not only is feel improved, but NVH is lower, faulty alignments easier to identify, and driving at the limits of adhesion are more predictable.
Use spring rates, roll center, roll center rake, and proper dampening to dial in the car without them. No need for anti-roll bars.
On another note, MOST aftermarket companies claim that raising the rear roll center and increasing rear anti-squat on a RWD chassis is what you want. I'm going to say that 9 out of 10 times, that's not the case, and they are totally off their rocker.
Again though, it all comes down to combinations of parts and how they all work together. Our driving styles dictate quite a bit about vehicle setup as well.
I'll be very interested where you end up, I am running 350 lb springs in the rear and probably 400 to 500 lb in the front, I wonder how it would feel not having them, especially for drifting. This build is cool, can't wait to see more fab
I'll be very interested where you end up, I am running 350 lb springs in the rear and probably 400 to 500 lb in the front, I wonder how it would feel not having them, especially for drifting. This build is cool, can't wait to see more fab
Are you running something like the T3 setup on a 1st Gen front end geometry? Definitely one of the higher sprung setups that I've heard of for these cars, so post a picture, tell me more about it!
The front geometry of a McPherson strut car of this era really goes to **** as you lower it. I believe Page 2 shows pictures of what an FC racer developed for roll center correction (a proper way of doing it).
Rear Geometry on the FB isn't the greatest, but at least it's a Watt's Link. Lowering it and link lengths being unequal (for packaging reasons) kinda screws you up throughout travel (which since you're running pretty high spring rates, there will be less travel).
It comes down to the FB loving OEM height and relatively stiffer springs.
Are you running something like the T3 setup on a 1st Gen front end geometry? Definitely one of the higher sprung setups that I've heard of for these cars, so post a picture, tell me more about it!
The front geometry of a McPherson strut car of this era really goes to **** as you lower it. I believe Page 2 shows pictures of what an FC racer developed for roll center correction (a proper way of doing it).
Rear Geometry on the FB isn't the greatest, but at least it's a Watt's Link. Lowering it and link lengths being unequal (for packaging reasons) kinda screws you up throughout travel (which since you're running pretty high spring rates, there will be less travel).
It comes down to the FB loving OEM height and relatively stiffer springs.
I haven't done it yet, but yes I will be making my own version of a T3 set up in the front. I will also be making some tall roll center correction spacers since I am so low and I hope that will help. I may build adjustable links for the watts to help get it more centered when its lowered. honestly the way it is now the 350 rear springs feel fine, little to no body roll
I like the idea of an independent suspension and something using my "frame" or chassis as a torsional unit doesn't exactly strike me as smart. There were tests on the FC chassis where it showed weakening/severe flexing of the chassis - probably under one of the "chassis stiffening" threads.
Real World Experience:
What does an anti-roll bar do? It improves AVERAGE grip levels for the driver (more forgiving). What does this mean? It means that Joe-Schmoe can throw his car around and the anti-rollbar will do a great job at being predictable and grip will be very manageable up until a certain point. After about 8/10ths, the car will start to break away less predictably and overall lateral grip is decreased. With the bars removed, not only is feel improved, but NVH is lower, faulty alignments easier to identify, and driving at the limits of adhesion are more predictable.
Use spring rates, roll center, roll center rake, and proper dampening to dial in the car without them. No need for anti-roll bars.
I've been running no sway bars on my autocross cars for years and like it a lot. I was just wondering what your reasoning was since you seem to have a decent idea of suspension design and no sway bars goes against the norm.
Originally Posted by Freeskier7791
I'll be very interested where you end up, I am running 350 lb springs in the rear and probably 400 to 500 lb in the front, I wonder how it would feel not having them, especially for drifting. This build is cool, can't wait to see more fab
My FC autocross car is currently running 900/600 and it's good. I wouldn't run that much rear spring unless you have decent aero and like a loose car though (and I'm running slicks... so Gs are a bit higher). what most people forget is when you ditch the front sway bar you have to compensate for the lost roll resistance with more spring, which is going to be more than you think considering these springs aren't binding like the sway bar probably was
my corolla is running 525/700 on street tires and it's a little soft as far as roll goes, but the rear springs make it a bit brutal on the street. the FC is surprisingly completely fine on the street, good dampers make a big difference
I've been running no sway bars on my autocross cars for years and like it a lot. I was just wondering what your reasoning was since you seem to have a decent idea of suspension design and no sway bars goes against the norm.
My FC autocross car is currently running 900/600 and it's good. I wouldn't run that much rear spring unless you have decent aero and like a loose car though (and I'm running slicks... so Gs are a bit higher). what most people forget is when you ditch the front sway bar you have to compensate for the lost roll resistance with more spring, which is going to be more than you think considering these springs aren't binding like the sway bar probably was
my corolla is running 525/700 on street tires and it's a little soft as far as roll goes, but the rear springs make it a bit brutal on the street. the FC is surprisingly completely fine on the street, good dampers make a big difference
Funny you mention the Corolla. My Integra is 550F/400R w/ 24mm Comptech Rear Sway Bar on Hardest Setting. Since FWD is essentially a horse before the cart, I've never hated the idea of a swaybar on the rear of these types of vehicles. The rear only needs to track with the front, or ideally help rotate for turn in, and then stabilize in straightaways. Dampers are set 5/16 F (1 being softest), 9/16 R, and it's incredibly well damped and comfortable, with very minimal body roll. I'm known in these parts as the local setup guru (and normally I wouldn't give any of this information out), and my builds show.
The Corolla you have is set up how MOST H1 Honda Challenge cars run. Higher rear spring rate, probably more negative camber in the rear too (which mine is hovering -1.0 R). Just different ways to produce a neutral handling FWD setup. My car is also a dual purpose rig and is corner balanced at 2888# with me and half a tank of fuel. #TrueFatty
It's true that once you get your spring rate ratios correct, less dampening is necessary. I like to tune my cars via ride frequency, then finalize break away characteristics and 10/10ths feel by fine tuning tire pressures. I've done anything from a 97 Viper GTS to 06 Audi S4 to Integra to Rx7 to 240sx to s2k to Miata to 65 Mustang. Hahaha, they're all different animals.
Last edited by RGHTBrainDesign; 07-28-16 at 07:30 PM.
good insight into setup, I come from the offroad world and generally we will use the springs to mainly set the ride height and then change valving to suit. It should be noted that we use alot of dual rate spring setups though to change how a vehicle reacts at different ride heights and throughout the travel.
Right now I'm debating whether or not to move the reverse Satchell Link from 48 degrees separation to 45 degree separation so it's a little better at handling power vs. side to side control.
Right now I'm debating whether or not to move the reverse Satchell Link from 48 degrees separation to 45 degree separation so it's a little better at handling power vs. side to side control.
Is there a geometry calculator or suspension geometry design document you're basing this off of?
04-29-16, 12:51 PM
*budget* *budget* *budget* 
