Power steering box adjustment
 

I have a powersteering box in my 84 GSL, I want to adjust it to compensate for the wonder steer (the 1 inch of play in the steering) i have loosened the nut but I cannot break free the screw in the center, any suggestions? (Power steering has been deleted since it's borderline useless anyway) at times I wish I just had a damn manual rack

Bueller?

Having same issue. It just turns with the outer nut. I sprayed it with PB Blaster and will give it a go in a day or so.

1" of play in the steering wheel is just about what the FSM specifications call for as I recall.

Are you sure you want to start cranking on that box trying to fix something that ain't broke and end up making it worse?

Anyway, if you decide to crank on it, be sure to lift the front wheels off the ground first to minimize the damage.

I remember reading 1/2 of an inch was normal, this is very worn and I'm having issues breaking the centerbolt free from the outer but (im afraid an impact driver will strip it out completely)

I just checked the Mazda factory service manual, it's 0.2 - 0.8 in.

They say if excessive, check:

1. center link ball joints
2. idler arm bushings
3. wheel bearings
4. backlash between the sector shaft and ball nut

Hope this helps. Pictures of the unit you are working on and the specific part giving you trouble might help.

If it's a non-power unit with the large locking nut on the outside and a smooth doomed cap with 4 pin holes around the edge, like this:

Attachment 614061

Then you need a non-power steering box adjustment kit, which looks something like this:

Attachment 614062

First you need to loosen the large locking nut on the outside, that's what the monkey wrench is for (if you have a crescent or socket this size, good for you!).

With the lock nut loosened, you then jack up the front of the car to take the weight off the front wheels - not doing so can damage your box when you make the adjustment.

Now use the hammer and large punch to rotate the inner cap by tapping the holes to rotate the cap one way or the other. As I recall, counterclockwise tightens and counter clockwise loosens, but check me on this.

Make the adjustment in very small steps, no more than a few degrees each time, then check the steering wheel for play. Snug it up to get within specs, but don't get greedy! Overtightening will only compress the gears and shorten their life.

If it's a disabled power unit, you have a smaller (~1 inch) lock nut and a slotted head adjustment screw, which you need to turn with a large screw driver. Looks like this:

Attachment 614063

In this case the procedure is the same but the lock nut is easier and the center shaft is a bit more tricky, since it's harder to put torque on the adjustment screw with the screw driver.

You may need to add some extra torque to get it going, but I wouldn't recommend an impact driver, you might damage the gears. Better to lock a large pair of vice grips onto the large screw driver handled and then carefully work it back and forth by hand to get it loose.

A little patience should do it, I recall having the same problem with the power units but it gave in eventually.

Finally, I may be prejudiced, but a properly maintained stock FB steering rack and a well adjusted steering box is perfect for the car, lively, accurate and predictable. No need for a rack and pinion if you do it right and a whole lot easier and less expensive.

The center screw hole is weak and is starting to want to break the edges of where the flat head goes in, I will definitely try the vice grip technique tho, I have a powered unit