My turbo build
Hey all
so this is my build that i have been working on for 4 months now. it was a stock port carb 12A with 90k on the motor and body Mod List: Godspeed 16g custom manifold innovate LC-1 wideband 02 glowshift gauges( boost oil fule water temp) walboro 255 fule pump mallory boost refrence reg bonnet and carb CXracing diy intercooler kit racingbeat lowering springs racingbeat front sway bar racingbeat rear sway abr 4 point roll cage done by Kales customs in vt msd 6a box downpipe build by me exhaust built by me with a megan muffler konig rewind rims Procart seats Rci harness jensen vm930 flipup head unit polkaudio spearker all around painted by me. black saffire metalic(eastwood paint) there is much more i cant rember it anymore http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/..._6281848_n.jpg http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/..._1958525_n.jpg http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/..._5622687_n.jpg http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/..._5111295_n.jpg sorry for pic size its a little big, ill try tomarro to get better pictures up. |
Very nice!!!! The little rotary that can!!! :D
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Blue painted plastic bottle?
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Originally Posted by Directfreak
(Post 10740700)
Blue painted plastic bottle?
What glowshift gauges you have 85Gen1. I have the elite 10 colors and love them |
haha ya it is a nos energy bottly the overflow was in the way of the intercooler pipe so i went for somthing smaller and it still isnt right. Twinkletoes they are the elete 7series if my memory serves me right. i like them there a pain in the butt to get out of show mode but i like them i can post a pic of them on later.
so i got a question since i have more or less two of the turbo 1 gen gods posting how much whp do you guys think im making. i got it running today and it finally pulled correctly at 17lbs. we build a talon with my buddie and this feels alot faster than his and he was running 25lbs could you guys throw out a guess? i dont rele have a clue |
Do you have a wideband and EGT? I wouldn't run that kind of boost until you are ABSOLUTELY SURE that you aren't leaning out.
When it comes to turbo engines, it is better to be RICH, than POOR (lean). |
Haha. Nice!! It's still stockport, but you are running 17psi .. Directfreak would know better then I.
Like he said get a wideband and EGT guage. I have the 7 series glowshift wideband. For the money, it's the shit!! Helps A TON!! I also would like a EGT guage.. Thats my next guage to get. Keep it up!! |
your crazy:wave:....what turbo do you have...?
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no i currently dont have an ETG in the car.. its on my list. I do have a wideband in the car. its innovate's LC-1 with logworks 2. at idle im around 12.4 to 13.6 and in boost it was right around 11. i didnt get true numbers because i forgot to record the data on my laptop.. hopefully if it doesnt rain i can do that tonight.
Ya im a big fan of the glowshift gauges. they are easy to set up and they look pretty good in the car. Rx71King. its a Godspeed 16g turbo. its a td05 that people put in eclipse and talons. it was cheaper to get their turbos so i flanged it for theirs. DirectFreak. is 17psi too much for stock ports? ive gotten alot of diffrent answers ranging from 10psi is too much to 22 is fine? |
Originally Posted by 85Gen1
(Post 10741279)
no i currently dont have an ETG in the car.. its on my list. I do have a wideband in the car. its innovate's LC-1 with logworks 2. at idle im around 12.4 to 13.6 and in boost it was right around 11. i didnt get true numbers because i forgot to record the data on my laptop.. hopefully if it doesnt rain i can do that tonight.
Ya im a big fan of the glowshift gauges. they are easy to set up and they look pretty good in the car. Rx71King. its a Godspeed 16g turbo. its a td05 that people put in eclipse and talons. it was cheaper to get their turbos so i flanged it for theirs. DirectFreak. is 17psi too much for stock ports? ive gotten alot of diffrent answers ranging from 10psi is too much to 22 is fine? I would definitely run a little less boost if I were you. Like 14psi-ish. |
On 93 octane, assuming the rest of your fuel system is up to snuff, I would not run over 15psi. Higher than that, you would need a higher octane fuel.
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Originally Posted by Directfreak
(Post 10741529)
It depends on many factors. Fuel quality, intake temps, humidity, timing, and the tune to name a few. Based on your mods, I think you might be pushing it.
I would definitely run a little less boost if I were you. Like 14psi-ish. Where is the best place to get a water temp on 12a. currently i have it tapped into the stock temp gauge on the bottom of the radiator and ive noticed that the car will be fairley warm and my gauge wont even read over 100. so im pretty sure it isnt the best spot. it does read the temp but it takes alot longer for the gauge to register that the engine is warm. any ideas of a better spot? |
By the thermostat, on the neck/waterpump.
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Originally Posted by Directfreak
(Post 10742091)
By the thermostat, on the neck/waterpump.
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Originally Posted by 85Gen1
(Post 10742269)
cool thanks for the help. Directfreak how hard was it to do the aerospace components brakes on your 7. since the car isnt running all its vac crap it really doesnt have the brakes to be pulling like this now. do u have a solution or a fairley inexpensive alternative?
I have a set of TII rear brakes that I will eventually modify to fit the 8.8 rear. Then will it will be properly matched, as an OEM TII would. My best recommendation - leave the stock brakes alone. Just make sure you are running good rotors/pads/fluid, and replace the rubber lines with Braided Stainless Steel Brake Lines. That alone will make HUGE differences for ANY street driving. The only reason to go bigger brakes is to reduce FADE, such as in a track where you are REPEATEDLY stomping on them. I only changed mine because I needed to go 5 lug, to match the rear end. Otherwise, they were fine. |
Originally Posted by Directfreak
(Post 10742312)
I couldnt tell you. I had such a problem modulating the front (TII) and rear Aerospace brake bias that I ended up disconnecting them and only running front brakes.
I have a set of TII rear brakes that I will eventually modify to fit the 8.8 rear. Then will it will be properly matched, as an OEM TII would. My best recommendation - leave the stock brakes alone. Just make sure you are running good rotors/pads/fluid, and replace the rubber lines with Braided Stainless Steel Brake Lines. That alone will make HUGE differences for ANY street driving. The only reason to go bigger brakes is to reduce FADE, such as in a track where you are REPEATEDLY stomping on them. I only changed mine because I needed to go 5 lug, to match the rear end. Otherwise, they were fine. Has anyone elese had this problem and fixed it. Directfreak. did you ever get the bigger wastegate spring in ur 7 to run 20psi? ive been dying to know if u have or not because or your vid. How long do stock clutches live under boost? i replaced mine a while ago but havent driven the car in a long time so it really only has about 200 miles on it? are they fairly reliable under boost or do i need to look for another one? |
Are you running the stock transmission? At 17psi? I don't think that will last for very long.
I would recommend you pick up a Turbo II transmission which can be found for $200-$300. You will, or course need a custom driveshaft which will probably run you about $150-$200. I run a ACT clutch which has great feel and no slippage. I'm not sure which one it is as it came with a package that I bought off a forum member. |
Originally Posted by mikeric
(Post 10742857)
Are you running the stock transmission? At 17psi? I don't think that will last for very long.
I would recommend you pick up a Turbo II transmission which can be found for $200-$300. You will, or course need a custom driveshaft which will probably run you about $150-$200. I run a ACT clutch which has great feel and no slippage. I'm not sure which one it is as it came with a package that I bought off a forum member. i was looking at ACT clutches and clutchmasters. is yours a puck clutch? do the turbo II transmissions bolt right up? |
im having trouble wite my air fuel especially when you go from primarys to secondaries.. in my primarys my AFR is around 13.3-12.2 which im ok with but when i go into my secondarys it spikes to 23.3 to 24 it does that for a few seconds then pulls an drop back to 12's can anyone help.. i was wondering if it was mt accelerator pump? i put this question on the single turbo fourm but all i got was people critisizing me on my signature.... thanks for the help and advice
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woooowwww this is amazing!!!
u just made me want to do this to my car... hey man if u can give me more information on how u did this or where u learnt to do this please please do...super sick job man congratz -Rotary Boy- |
Originally Posted by 777CheekZ
(Post 10751078)
woooowwww this is amazing!!!
u just made me want to do this to my car... hey man if u can give me more information on how u did this or where u learnt to do this please please do...super sick job man congratz -Rotary Boy- |
Originally Posted by 85Gen1
(Post 10742786)
Directfreak. did you ever get the bigger wastegate spring in ur 7 to run 20psi? ive been dying to know if u have or not because or your vid.?
Turns out it WASN'T the wastegate. It' was that the Turbo was too small. The engine wanted more boost, but the Turbo wasn't large enough to give it the volume of air it needed. :( |
Originally Posted by Directfreak
(Post 10751469)
Yes, we were able to barely hold 20 psi at Redline - did 507RWHP back then.
Turns out it WASN'T the wastegate. It' was that the Turbo was too small. The engine wanted more boost, but the Turbo wasn't large enough to give it the volume of air it needed. :( |
Originally Posted by 85Gen1
(Post 10751508)
did you every get the bigger turbo?
a friend "borrowed" it, and was going to pay me for it. Yadda, Yadda, Yadda, - I got fucked. |
Originally Posted by Directfreak
(Post 10751757)
I had bought one, and didn't install it. A couple of months later,
a friend "borrowed" it, and was going to pay me for it. Yadda, Yadda, Yadda, - I got fucked. im trying to decide of i run a race gas in mine for one of the runs today? can you buy jets for nikkis? or do you have to modify them |
Love your project! It's almost identical to what I'm cooking up. A lot of the same parts, except I'm using an FC turbo.
Since you're not using a double pumper carb, you need to lengthen the arm on the accelerator pump so that it continues to push extra fuel during the opening of your secondaries. That lean spike you're getting when they open is very dangerous and could destroy your motor in a hurry! You will probably also need to enlarge the jet in the accel pump nozzle for a stronger shot. |
Originally Posted by LizardFC
(Post 10764215)
Love your project! It's almost identical to what I'm cooking up. A lot of the same parts, except I'm using an FC turbo.
Since you're not using a double pumper carb, you need to lengthen the arm on the accelerator pump so that it continues to push extra fuel during the opening of your secondaries. That lean spike you're getting when they open is very dangerous and could destroy your motor in a hurry! You will probably also need to enlarge the jet in the accel pump nozzle for a stronger shot. |
I have no idea what the tolerance is. Sterling used to make them out of spare throttle shafts. I'm just planning on running around 5 psi initially and maybe 10 ultimately.
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Originally Posted by LizardFC
(Post 10765157)
I have no idea what the tolerance is. Sterling used to make them out of spare throttle shafts. I'm just planning on running around 5 psi initially and maybe 10 ultimately.
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hey guys so I need some help/ advice from the first gen gurus. I'm still having tons of problems when I try to go full throttle in my 7 currently it's set at 15 pound. in primary's it holds 15psi no problem. when I try to open the secondaries it starts sputtering and will not accelerate. when I try to use secondaries my AFR is 11.8 so that leads me to believe it isn't a fuel problem. Im at Wyotexh right now and talking to our hi performance instructor he says that my turbo is too close to the engine creating too much heat for the turbo to handle. which I don't believe. it makes a horrific shrieking noise when the secondaries open aswell can anyone help!!!
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With the secondarys open what does your boost gauge do? I would check the waste gate for good tension and check your spark advance, And what is your fuel pressure at?.... just throwing ideas out there from similer issues.
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Originally Posted by 85Gen1
(Post 11156676)
when I try to open the secondaries it starts sputtering and will not accelerate.
Originally Posted by 85Gen1
(Post 11156676)
our hi performance instructor he says that my turbo is too close to the engine creating too much heat for the turbo to handle. which I don't believe.
Originally Posted by 85Gen1
(Post 11156676)
it makes a horrific shrieking noise when the secondaries open aswell can anyone help!!!
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redpro: when I go to secondaries the boost pressure remains the same. the fuel pressure at wide open at 15 psi is 21psi. I am going to put a video of what is happen up with in a few days it's been raining all week so the next nice day I'll take it out. I though about accelerator pump but if I try to ease into the secondaries it does the same as snapping them open. ooh and at full throttle its running full advance
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Originally Posted by 85Gen1
(Post 11156743)
redpro: when I go to secondaries the boost pressure remains the same. the fuel pressure at wide open at 15 psi is 21psi. I am going to put a video of what is happen up with in a few days it's been raining all week so the next nice day I'll take it out. I though about accelerator pump but if I try to ease into the secondaries it does the same as snapping them open. ooh and at full throttle its running full advance
Originally Posted by 85Gen1
(Post 11156743)
our hi performance instructor he says that my turbo is too close to the engine creating too much heat for the turbo to handle. which I don't believe.
Originally Posted by Directfreak
I agree. Should be fine.
I think once you find out where the noise is coming from you will if you will fix the shutter... I can't help to think the two are related to the same thing ...very intressting oh love the build cant wait to do the same.:nod: |
thanks it was a pain but what rotary isn't. it's definitely worth it though. hopefully tomarro I'll have a video up ao u guys can see what I mean
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Originally Posted by 85Gen1
(Post 11156743)
ooh and at full throttle its running full advance
At the very least have a locked distributor. |
we tried doing a full retard and could not get the car to idle or accelerate.
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Originally Posted by Directfreak
(Post 11156963)
What? You are supposed to retard timing under boost.
At the very least have a locked distributor. |
kk I'll try that. no I pulled the vacumn advance so it's fixed in full advance I'll try retarding it most of the way and put a video of what happens how far retarded should it be?
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to retard the timing under pressure could I use a msd boost/timing retarder with my msd 6a box I am currently using?
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sorry guys was raining all day in PA today didn't get the car out I'll have a video up tomarro
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Originally Posted by 85Gen1
(Post 11158951)
sorry guys was raining all day in PA today didn't get the car out I'll have a video up tomarro
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ya where are u maby we can get a cruse cause I know a few others around
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