MR.lucky80GS's tec. junk yard 12A questions!
 

I would like to know compatability between a 83GS motor and a 80 GS motor. I have pics I will post soon. First question. Can that "beehive" oil cooler be transferred to the 80 to the 83? I have a million more questions. But I got to start somewhere:) also second question is a 12A motor pack stripped down completely to just the core(housing and rotors and crank and side plates)the same as any 12A ftom a 1979 gs to a 1984 GS. I'm really curious because all these parts are sitting at local junkyard and need to be grabbed up if they work with my car. HELP PLZ TEC PEEPS. PIC. Comming exreamly soon. Like today

Attachment 647193 one motor I found in a 83 GS. The other pics are better sorry:)

Attachment 647192 this is the "beehive" right? Is it compatable with my car. Extra cool oil always helps:)

Attachment 647191 another 83 GS from junk yard. Are these carb parts sitting on the motor still any use to me ,or that's not a compatable part?

Plz I would love input about how this post is constructed. Just looking for constructive criticizing. So if these pic are good for you or if they are worthless for the questions, or even I I didn't post enough pics. Plz let me know. Thank you guys very much:)

Lets start with a few questions to make sure we understand what your asking/doing.

1. What year is the car the engine going in?
2. What year car is the donor engine from?

You can transfer the beehive to the 1980 - but if you can get the front mount oil cooler (FMOC) from the 1980 grab it. It works much better.

The big difference as I see it is the exhaust thermo reactor on the 1980 and also the flywheel.

Just to keep things simple here, use the flywheel from the same engine that is going in the car. Flywheels can be mixed and matched but as a general rule, the flywheel needs to match the rotating assembly.

Agree. FMOC is the way to go. A bit more info would be helpful about what is in what and where it is going. But, personally, I would grab that entire engine. It can't be that much more expensive than stripping it down and it would be less work. Disconnect the radiator hoses, disconnect the exhaust pipes, take the starter off, unbolt it from the transmission, unbolt the motor mounts and snatch that puppy outta there. Looks like it's already missing the carb but if it's laying around grab it too.

I have a fully running stock 80 GS with a/c and 5 speed transmission that counldnt shift into 4th without choking the engine going 70 mph. So I take it that it is geared to 160 + mph. Anyways my motor is completely stock from what I can tell. I have ALL pic of my car in the introduction forum under MR.lucky80GS's New car pics. It leaks oil pretty bad and shoots straight FIRE BALLS!! Out the back at high rev. This thing needs work and I got it a couple days ago and have been reading Haynes manual about tear down and rebuild a couple times. Cool motor concept for sure. My experience with old 80's four bangers is up their in the mid to high expertise scale. So talk Tec detail ill listen. I'll post pic of my engine on this post f you guys prefer

Btw I have always steered away from carb cars from 80's till now. I'm really really good with FI cars. But that does me nothing here. That's why I said mid to high expertise cuz when it comes to carbs that's where I crap out..... :) so extra help on carb questions would be appreciated. Thanks again guys

Actually I know exactly what to do, sorry ill post pics of my oil an as it is on my car. And ill take pic of my carb so you guys can tell me if its stock of aftermarket or what it is.

Attachment 647088 this is my oil can, looks like it screws straight to the oil pan pickup, no cooler:( it needs one.

Attachment 647087 if this is stock intake on a RX7 then no wonder why you guys like these things its like a tiny suped up four barrell carb. I craped myself when I saw four I thought four barrells only came on trucks that needed a lot of tourqe. So these are stock?

Attachment 647086 UM... I think I'm gonna stick with this carb for a bit, I'm already in love with it:) good looking piece of machinery if you ask me. I'm sure someone one here knows how to tune one of these things really nice. At least make the fire ball thing go away. Lol

I did forget to mention the worst problem this thing has as is, its got cracks and a couple small holes in the exhaust manifold and I know it is messing with my horsepower horribly. But I can tackle that myself should not be a problem in a week or two when I get good exhaust manifold after man hunt for it.

But the reason I started this thread is because you guys ate the experts at RX7's and I'm just a backyard mechanic with 7 years of fixing mine and other people's cars, and I have work on one Mazda before. I swapped out the automatic tranny on a 98 protege, all by myself. So I would say I can get most of the stuff by myself. I know I'm going to have a butt load of questions when I get that other 12A from the junk yard. Couldn't do I today it eas storming out pretty bad. But be patient I will get that junk yard motor and have lots of pics to post. I want a rebuilt motor ready to go when I pull the one out of the 80 GS I'm driving now. Im concerned about the internals of the motor that I have in my car. So to be safe. What do you guys suggest. I'm I being too cautious?

I read in the Haynes manual you can take them to a Mazda dealership and have or compression tested. Would that tell me the condition of the rotors and seals or just tell me that the valves all don't leak. What will a compression test achieve. Will it help me stop worrying about conditions of internals or just bring up more questions?

Firstly, two barrels will give more torque than 4. ;)

Also, I woudn't trust that junkyard engine as far as I could throw it. How long has it been sitting with the carb off of it and not being turned over?!? No good sir. The parts inside it might be ok.

If your 80 is factory stock it will have a short radiator and an oil cooler hanging under it. Thats not a very good design. I've never had an issue with it on my car, but I've heard of overheating issues. Also the advatage of a FMOC or a beehive is that the oil and water tempuratures mix making the engine have a more uniform temp.

Running a beehive and a FMOC is NOT a good idea. Your engine is suposed to get hot. Not boiling but hot. Too cold is bad, not as bad as too hot, but still bad. Granted you have a thermostat in the FMOC but the factory didn't design for it and those boys genrally know what they are doing.

Can you take your car to Mazda to have the compression tested? I dunno last I heard Mazda genrally turns down rotary engine work. I could only imagine the tech's (Not a mechanic) face when you pull up in your whip. Long story short; do the compression test at your house with a hot battery and a freind to bump it for you.

Have you tried Seafoaming your current engine? Pour half the can of seafoam into the gas tank.

I'm assuming you just purchased this car? Did the PO let the car sit for a year or two? If so seafoam is your freind.

Sat for five to ten years in garage. Guy never had it registered or insured,to him so he lied,to me about it being his daily driver. Anyways I got original title with owner from Colorado with 0 miles on tach. On title. First guy must have suped it up because I don't think it is stock it has a very huge radiator. And the four barrell has gold plating all over it screaming holly quadrajet. Which are very nice. Would explain the fire balls comming out the back in high tev. Would also explain why it gos through whole tank of gas in 70 miles. Lol

I was gonna ask about the seafoam being ok for rotary engines, so its cool huh?

Yep. There's lots of threads and posts about using it either to free up a stuck engine or decarbonize the internals of an engine. You can search the forums here and find lots of posts. I personally have never used it, but lots of people have, and done so successfully.

Holley is a carburator brand and Quadrajet is a more or less a factory GM carb brand.

And thats not gold plating.... it looks more like varnish from rancid fuel.

If its been sitting for 5 or 10 years then deffinetly dump a whole can of seafoam in the gas tank. You might have to clean the bejesus out of that carb though.

I will pull apart carb to find out problem, and get exhaust manifold fixed before she even get driven again. I took for drive around block a couple times again this this thing has a stuck something in the carb it must come apart. I got Sony cybershot and am a pic addict, and good with first trys on most car stuff. Might as well fix exhaust while at it this things gitting soaked with PB blaster and sitting for a day. Pray for me they all come off , not snap off;)

Couple of things:

1) if the car starts easily, you probably don't need a new engine.
2 if yo can't accelerate in 4th, I'd suggest changing the fuel filter. If that doesn't help, check the pump for flow. If that checks out, you could also have gunk piled up in the inlet screens for the floats.
3) your current car has a much better cooling setup than the 83. You don't want that beehive.

Thanks for input it had been boggling my mind sence I bought it. That that the plugs looked really new for a 80. Most would have turned yellow and break easy by 2015. But that is a very valid point. All wire and plugs are fresh and soft and easy to disconnect. Haddnt crossed my mind till you brought it up. I think this thing has been built once before by someone who "knew" what they where doing. Then passed it off to that guy who knew lit nothing about it( or at least a lil less then I did at first,lol) it starts fine. And turns over really quietly before she starts when I pull the choke it turns faster. I tap on gas and it starts. No prob. I will deff have to take lots of pics of carb before disassemble, it might be unique to origional owners design