I made my transmission mount finally, went to install it and realized I don't have any bolts long enough to go through it, time to go to autozone.



Here is the mount, just a simple square tube 3/4 inch thick, and i drilled holes in the crossmember to match the holes in the transmission, i just have to get 2 longer bolts to go through everything, then i can bolt up the driveshaft





I also put the headlights and the front nose panel back on so i can start mounting the vmount





Here is a picture of the vmount setup

After i get this done, I can start figuring out where I'm going to mount the coils and everything else, and start on the wiring

 

To hell with auto zone. Lowes or home depot have a MUCH larger selection and the price is less.

 

I know they are a lot cheaper, but there is a autozone right around the corner from my house.
Today on my lunch break, i got longer bolts for the transmission mount and installed it.



Here it is installed, it was really easy to make





This shows the difference in where the bolt holesare situated, just had to ream both holes outward a little bit

 

Nice and simple. I like it!

 

I haven't had much time to work on the car because of the holidays. I had a little bit of time over the weekend. I was able to finish bolting up the tranny, and got the driveshaft mounted



Heres a picture of the driveshaft mounted








I also started figuring out the vmount setup. I figured out how it gets mounted .all i have to do is make a few brackets, and it should bolt right up

The intercooler should sit right under the nose panel, and sit about 2 inches from the water pump pulley, after I get the brackets made, I'm going to see if I can get a little more room away from the water pump pulley

 

Got a little more work done tonight. I mounted the alternator, hooked up all of the turbo lines, installed the downpipe, welded on another o2 sensor bung after i cut the previous owner's messed up one off.also messed around with the wiring.




Also this came today, mtxl wideband

 

Do you have the logger/meter? I love my LM-2. I get a 30second bar graph of my run. Makes me wonder how I tuned anything before I got it.


Looking good so far.

 

The last time I worked on the car, i noticed that the clutch master cylinder was leaking, so I ordered a new one, it came today. So after work I put that in , man that top nut is a pain in the ***!.also put the new slave cylinder and braided hose on.I also finished up the turbo, I put the wastegate actuator on, I should have done that before I put the engine in.I also put the s4 turbo2 throttle cable in, I'm not sure if I have it routed right?




If you look closely you can see how i have the cable routed, it goes behind the alternator





And out on top of the turbo, and up and around the intake manifold and then bolted to the bracket, and then the throttle body. Can someone please tell me if this is how it is supposed to be routed.





Heres a picture of how bad the clutch master cylinder was leaking, anybody know what I can use to clean the inside of the firewall where it was leaking





Here's a pic of the whole new clutch hydraulic system installed

I have a long weekend coming up so hopefully I can get a lot more work done to it

 

Nice work! I can't comment on the routing of your cables, but for cleaning up the fluid from the clutch master trust your instincts. Any kind of brake cleaner will prolly affect the paint, so maybe simple green or purple power?

BTW, my brake master looked a lot like that as I'm sure most do. I tore it completely apart and wire wheeled it back when I was first starting out. Not sure if I'll rebuild or replace (prolly replace).

Keep going! You must have a warm garage!

 

Water can clean off brake fluid and won't take off paint, unless it was softened by brake fluid already. Might be safer than brake cleaner?

 

Keep going! You must have a warm garage![/QUOTE]

Thanks, I work in a body shop, and I keep it in there, thats why it is covered in body dust. wouldn't say it's very warm, but it definitely is warmer than outside, thanks for the tips for cleaning up the brake fluid wood mv and Jeff20B.I have off today and the rest of the weekend so I'm gonna try to get a good amount of work done to the car

 

This just came today, the correct battery harness, now I can concentrate on the wiring

 

Today I cleaned up the new battery harness I got, I also cleaned up the nasty fuel pump hanger



This thing had about a half inch of crud on it when i first got it out of a car at the local u-pull-it, which was a few months ago, i cleaned all of the crap off of it when i got it, today when i got it out of my shed, it still stunk like bad gas, i wanted to gag.





Here it is all cleaned up with a walbro fuel pump installed, and the fuel level sending unit removed. Im going to use the fb sending unit, since the car came with a brand new one in the storage bins

Does anyone know what size fuel lines I need to run, or will I be alright with the stock lines for now

 

Stock EFI is 8mm (5/16") send and return.

A mallory 4309 for a blow through Nikki wants 5/16" send and 3/8" return.

If you keep the stock 1/4" return, your car will run rich. Might want to flood easier etc.

 

I don't mean to bring this too far back from the dead, but what all did you do for your gauge cluster to transmission speedo gearing? Did they fit directly? Swap a different cable? Have you driven the car yet to see if it's somewhat accurate?

 

It is the factory 85 gsl cable, it fit directly in, I'm not done yet to see how accurate it is, I'm hoping to have it running soon, I really don't have too much more to go to get it running

 

Got some more work done on the car, I hooked the heater hoses back up, I had to plug up the one end of the metal tube that runs down the passenger side frame rail due to the s4 engine not having a beehive oil cooler. Also started switching over the fuel lines



Does anyone know what this is, it is leaking. It is about 4-6 inches above the fuel filter. Will i be alright just bypassing it.the send line goes from the tank, through the filter, then pump, and through this piece, and then to the line that runs to the front of the car, i was just going to remove it since I will be running a lot more pressure, and its already leaking. I just want to make sure what is is and does before I do that

 

That is the "fuel cut valve" and it's purpose (as you might surmise from the title) is to cut off the fuel flow in the event the car rolls over. Has a ball in there that seats when the valve is upside down.

DivinDriver has a good pic of his sawed in half.

 

Thank you so much, I'll have to find another one

 

Hopefully it won't be a restriction in your fuel line when you're in boost.

 

That's what I was wondering, do you think I'll be alright with out it, also I have about half of a roll of 3/8 line left if you can use it

 

That ball thing is only useful with the stock fuel system. An aftermarket fuel pump isn't going to like it very much. And sure I could use some more 3/8" line.

 

I was worried that it wouldn't be able to handle the high pressure also, in the trash it goes, since it's leaking anyway, thanks

 

Possibly an "inline tip over valve"?

RCI Inline Fuel Cell Tip Valve

I'm interested as well...

 

I haven't had much time lately to work on the car because of work and bad weather. Today I routed the 3/8 fuel line, made some brackets for the vmount intercooler. Made a new front frame rail cross member because the original one is too big for the vmount to fit right.



Made a vent tube out of a piece of brake line and drilled a hole in the fuel pump cover and Welded it in.





Also these stainless steel braided brake hoses came today





Alao got a hid headlight kit, amd this relay harness

Tomorrow I'm going to tack the new crossmember in so I can cut the old one out to mount the vmount setup