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-   -   Baby steps for rear suspension please!! (https://www.rx7club.com/build-threads-293/baby-steps-rear-suspension-please-1135242/)

ayeenomi 04-18-19 03:08 PM

Baby steps for rear suspension please!!
 
Hey my fellow rotary homies.. so I know there are multiple threads talking about rear suspension set up and all but i’ve gone through about 20 of them and there pretty useless.. yes there some people explaining what they use and all but my issues is i want links to where you get the stuff .. from spring, stut,, all. So if anyone can do that for me that would be awesome ,, drop a link to someone who already did, i ll accept that too. I already got my eyes on the T3 drop link now i just need the rest please and thank you # BRRAPPOn

chuyler1 04-18-19 03:28 PM

Springs/Shocks: Racing Beat springs are good for moderate ride height and street performance with occasional autocross and track days. Mate them to Koni shocks or whatever you can find that is still available. Cut as much as one coil out of the rear to get desired ride height. If you want lower, several companies make coilovers including T3 and Ground Control. If you go really low, you'll need the traction bar adapters that T3 sells which allow you to lower the shock mount point so you don't run out of travel.

Control Arms: Do not buy the Energy Suspension bushing kit for the rear (front is ok). Your options are OEM replacement control arms or something like the T3 upper and lower control arms.

Watts/Panhard/3-link/4-link: If you've read enough threads you'll realize there is no bolt-on solution for the rear suspension other than ordering new OEM watts linkage parts so you have fresh bushings. If you are sticking with something like Racing Beat springs, factory parts are just fine.

The T3 panhard and anything like it is not bolt-on no matter what people tell you. It uses one factory watts mount, and an un-supported, un-gussetted shock mount. If you plan to corner your car hard, it will bend, and eventually break off the shock mount on the axle. There's nothing wrong with the bar itself, but you'll have to pull out a welder and make some modifications to your axle to make it safe for hard cornering. An infinitely better solution, since you need to weld anyway, is to make a custom panhard setup that is triangulated and parallel with the axle, or a 3-link setup (requires cutting a hole in the center of tunnel and custom mounts), or a 4-link setup (requires custom mounts on chassis and axle).

All out custom: If none of this suits your fancy, plenty of people have swapped independent rear suspensions into their 1st gens. FC, Miata, etc. If you are creative, anything is possible, but nothing is "bolt-on".

84rtaryrcket 04-20-19 10:30 AM

Just did this all my self. It gets pricey when you start doing it all😂.

I did
-racing beat front and rear springs
-Pre 7/86 Toyota MR2 KONI rear struts for the front of my car(part no. 8641-1072Sport)
-87-93 koni oranges from a fox body mustang for the rear shocks.
-Racing beat front sway bar
-all OEM Rear links watts link and all
-oem tension rod bushings
-energy suspension control arm bushings
-cheap rock auto strut tops

ayeenomi 04-20-19 03:33 PM

Links?
 

Originally Posted by 84rtaryrcket (Post 12342779)
Just did this all my self. It gets pricey when you start doing it all😂.

I did
-racing beat front and rear springs
-Pre 7/86 Toyota MR2 KONI rear struts for the front of my car(part no. 8641-1072Sport)
-87-93 koni oranges from a fox body mustang for the rear shocks.
-Racing beat front sway bar
-all OEM Rear links watts link and all
-oem tension rod bushings
-energy suspension control arm bushings
-cheap rock auto strut tops

awesome bro thanks..

anyway you can drop links to all this.. sorry i just want it. Straight to the source

84rtaryrcket 04-20-19 05:01 PM

Not digging out links right now. Basically everything you need is on Mazdatrix anyway

WANKfactor 04-20-19 06:07 PM

I'd avoid the t3 stuff on the rear. The panhards are dicey. If you want panhard you need a proper weld in kit. The rear shock running out of travel is the least of your concerns if you try to lower it that much so those brackets arnt a great idea at all.
We all know the dangers of using stiff poly bushes in the rear so my mind boggles that t3 sell rose joint rear arms.

10cc 08-26-20 09:51 PM


Originally Posted by ayeenomi (Post 12342486)
Hey my fellow rotary homies.. so I know there are multiple threads talking about rear suspension set up and all but i’ve gone through about 20 of them and there pretty useless.. yes there some people explaining what they use and all but my issues is i want links to where you get the stuff .. from spring, stut,, all. So if anyone can do that for me that would be awesome ,, drop a link to someone who already did, i ll accept that too. I already got my eyes on the T3 drop link now i just need the rest please and thank you # BRRAPPOn


TriLink!!!! It is not bolt in, requires some good welding, but cost is low. I made all parts out of readily available metal .The change in handling is huge .Also best to put in the spacers between front struts and control arms to improve roll center. Run 300 - 350 lb rear and 450 -500 lb front springs .Mustang shocks in rear, maybe Koni 8041-1186, front...I'm using Koni 8610-1149, but with non stock struts....shocks are bigger diameter .I run in ST5 NASA.

Richard Miller 08-28-20 12:35 AM

As this is a resurrected thread I would like to use the to make my point in regards to the OP and the send links request. Links change, parts are discontinued, companies come and go. If someone says Brand X is a way to go, use one of many search engines. Post links. Are you fucking kidding me?

Maxwedge 08-28-20 04:42 PM

That was my thought. The resurrector is a new guy so probably didn't notice the thread was dead for a while. But to the OP's question,..... yeah.

You found this forum, so you must have a thumb and a keyboard. I thought young guys were supposed to be good at the internet. Heck, my 9yo helps me with computer and video games all the time. If you can't Google "T3 RX7 parts" or "1985 RX7 suspension link" you better quit cars and join the Amish.



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