Might pay you to check the bushings in the wastegate flapper too before you put it all back together - I'm running same hotside with hybrid coldside and after a year of trouble making boost low down it turned out to be shot hinge bush. After looking through a pile of housings I didn't find a single one that didn't have play in it to some degree. Now that's done it's boost o'clock.:egrin:
Takes me back to my build, good memories - keep up the good work. |
Originally Posted by captainbizzaro
(Post 11422368)
Might pay you to check the bushings in the wastegate flapper too before you put it all back together - I'm running same hotside with hybrid coldside and after a year of trouble making boost low down it turned out to be shot hinge bush. After looking through a pile of housings I didn't find a single one that didn't have play in it to some degree. Now that's done it's boost o'clock.:egrin:
Takes me back to my build, good memories - keep up the good work. |
Originally Posted by Qingdao
(Post 11419978)
^^^ why I dig on carbs...
Originally Posted by yardy8301
(Post 11420156)
Looking good. doing all the wiring up front will pay off in the end.
Originally Posted by Kaaarl12a
(Post 11420458)
Subscribing to this thread, Going to tackle a TII project on my own eventualy.
Originally Posted by 82transam
(Post 11422083)
Looking good, 15-20 hours on wiring is about right if you're going for the "it could be factory" look. It's a bunch of work, but once you're done (if you've done it right) you won't have to touch it again for a looooong time :)
This also makes me really want to get an Rtek so that I can just plug the ECU back in and drive the car instead of redoing the entire wiring harness to run a Haltech or something along those lines.
Originally Posted by captainbizzaro
(Post 11422368)
Might pay you to check the bushings in the wastegate flapper too before you put it all back together - I'm running same hotside with hybrid coldside and after a year of trouble making boost low down it turned out to be shot hinge bush. After looking through a pile of housings I didn't find a single one that didn't have play in it to some degree. Now that's done it's boost o'clock.:egrin:
Takes me back to my build, good memories - keep up the good work.
Originally Posted by ioTus
(Post 11422388)
Thats a good tip, right there! I'm a major proponent of "do it proper while you're in there"
Well, new updates are as follows: 1. I've been sick for almost a month now. Not sure if it's a sinus infection or something more sinister, have something tightening in my chest and back so I'm going in tomorrow to find out. That's really been slowing the progress down. 2. I think I'm going to use the spare turbo that I have instead of the one that comes apart and was on the car for a few reasons: A. There's no play whatsoever in the turbo, side to side or front to back B. Has the coolant lines still attached C. Appears to be in better shape overall D. Only has one stud broken off in the back 3. Goal is to drive the car in 41 days to get the windows tinted for a steal through the MNMazda forum by Tint Pros here in Minneapolis. 4. Got the car home last night so I can get the work done faster. May put the gas tank back in and take the 12a for it's last few drives before I'm completely ready to swap to the 13bt. Plan on doing some before and after videos with the engines just for fun. Pretty stoked :egrin: So I'm going to try to get some work done today and tomorrow if at all possible. Thanks for the replies guys, makes it worth posting :nod: |
No worries, I couldn't have done my swap without input from other people so just repaying the debt. I had to get a turbo reconditioner to replace it in the end, no other way.
|
Originally Posted by captainbizzaro
(Post 11425488)
No worries, I couldn't have done my swap without input from other people so just repaying the debt. I had to get a turbo reconditioner to replace it in the end, no other way.
I figured it would be something like a rebuild kit, there's one I found for like $150ish that I wouldn't mind picking up next winter. Getting a little antsy now, drove the 12a powered car last night and absolutely loved it. Can't wait for the 13bt to be in and drive that under its own power.:egrin: |
Modified the turbo oil drain with steel tubing, per Sean's direction :icon_tup::
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...ps48b31318.jpg http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...pse450600d.jpg http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...psa71df9dd.jpg How I left the engine tonight: http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...pse184cbd5.jpg List of work done: Modified turbo oil drain and adapted to FB GSL-SE front cover New front cover gasket Cleaned MOP and installed new gasket, completely installed CAS, MOP, and front eccentric shaft pulley all reinstalled Cleaned oil pan to ready for install of new oil pan gasket but found that I ordered the wrong one. So I ordered a new one from Atkins tonight, as well as some other small things that I wanted to complete the install. Slowly but surely, and correctly, I'm getting there. |
Not bad metal working at all. Did you make the flange?
|
Originally Posted by lindahlish
(Post 11425705)
Getting a little antsy now, drove the 12a powered car last night and absolutely loved it. Can't wait for the 13bt to be in and drive that under its own power.:egrin:
|
Originally Posted by Qingdao
(Post 11431318)
Not bad metal working at all. Did you make the flange?
Originally Posted by GySgtFrank
(Post 11431368)
You're going to have to pack an extra set of shorts once you get the 13BT in there. :icon_tup:
|
Is there a difference between 12a and SE front covers? I dont see a difference with the one I have I dont even know what its from.
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Originally Posted by MazdaMike02
(Post 11431705)
Is there a difference between 12a and SE front covers? I dont see a difference with the one I have I dont even know what its from.
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How I Made My Turbo Oil Drain
6 Attachment(s)
Making an FB turbo oil drain into the front cover below the OMP.
Parts needed from the store: 1/2" x 3/8" NPT Bushing 3/8" NPT 2" pipe Attachment 676000 Put the pipe through the 3/8" NPT tapped hole in the front cover and tighten it. Grind off all excess as in this picture so that the pipe is pressing as little as possible on the chain guard for the E-Shaft. Attachment 676001 Grind off the threads on the bushing down to almost nothing. Leave just enough to act as barbs to hold it in place for welding. Attachment 676002 Put the bushing inside the oil drain but don't weld on right away. Attachment 676003 Line up the tighened 2" pipe in the front cover, then tighten the flange with the oil drain all the way up. Mark the relative positions with a Sharpie to ensure that they are tighened to the right spot later. Tack weld the bushing in place and remove to finish weld. Remember to grind off the welds flat to ensure penetration through the stock oil drain pipe to the bushing for no leaks. Attachment 676004 Last pic is what mine looked like when finished. Attachment 676005 Typed that up since I had the fix the links for the pics, moved them in my Photobucket account. Tonight I plan on: 1. Porting the S4 wastegate on the turbo that I'll actually be using 2. Drilling out the busted stud on the back of the exhaust turbine 3. Fully installing the turbo setup 4. Modding the stock 12a engine brace 20mm rearward. Then there's only a few things left till it's installed! :icon_tup: |
Damn dude, you're going to have this installed and running before I even finish collecting the bits for my EFI swap.
I gotta get my ass in gear! (And don't slow down - keeping me motivated here!) |
6 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by ioTus
(Post 11433290)
Damn dude, you're going to have this installed and running before I even finish collecting the bits for my EFI swap.
I gotta get my ass in gear! (And don't slow down - keeping me motivated here!) Well, here's what I got done tonight: How I started the night Attachment 675919 Attachment 675920 Attachment 675921 Attachment 675922 Attachment 675923 Attachment 675924 Finished. Got a lot done tonight and pretty happy with the progress. Should be swapping it in on Saturday hopefully and getting the driveshaft made early next week so I can start driving it! :nod: List of things accomplished tonight are as follows: Turbo oil drain completely installed and sealed Coolant line from intake to turbo installed and sealed 2 new down pipe studs installed in turbo Wastegate ported to the largest diameter the stock flapper would allow (didn't want to go all out on this one, went up about 25% from stock so it will work fine) Installed turbo wastegate cover/backing plate Installed turbo completely on engine Removed clutch to view condition, then reinstalled - looks brand new :icon_tup: Some other things probably but I forget List of things needed to do to finish engine while removed: Mod the 12a engine bracket Install waterpump and housing with new gaskets and new thermostat (waiting on the Atkins order) New oil pan gasket installed (Atkins order as well) Then I can INSTALL! Will be working on wiring harness mostly here, as well as removing the 12a and modding the gas tank till Friday. Hopefully by next week she can be in the driveline shop getting a custom driveshaft and I can start driving it by the middle of next week! :egrin: |
Beautimous
|
Making good progress :)
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4 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by ioTus
(Post 11434201)
Beautimous
Originally Posted by 82transam
(Post 11434226)
Making good progress :)
Attachment 675572 Stupid snow. So I've kept myself busy through painting my gauge pod: Attachment 675573 Attachment 675574 And this made me feel like DivinDriver, since someone made fun of him for painting individual bolt heads :lol: Attachment 675575 So I'm at a standstill for now, was hoping to get the engine in on Saturday but that's not gonna happen. Guess I'll have to try and get the engine completely ready for the swap with the Atkins package I'm getting today and finish up a few other things but I'm kinda bummed about the weather. MN is terrible for giving you hope then dashing it again. |
Looks good, how close is the color match on that a-pillar?
Did you mod your shifter yet? |
The color match on the SEM burgundy is 95-97%.
Giving shit for painting screw heads??? PFFFFT. I've painted EVERY screw I've taken off so far. ALL interior screws have been painted burgundy, and the headlight bucket screws are now matte black. Keep it up bro - gauges are next on my list too. either tonight or tomorrow AM. Where you thinking of tapping them in? I was thinking to the stereo power harness, although I'm hesitant to add any potential line noise or ground loops into that already convoluted harness. |
Originally Posted by 82transam
(Post 11437163)
Looks good, how close is the color match on that a-pillar?
Did you mod your shifter yet? Haven't modded shifter yet, pretty nervous about that. Don't want to go through sideways and risk screwing up the rod. I'm a smaller guy (5' 8" with shoes on is what I always say :nod: ) and I thought it would bring the shifter closer to me if I just cut the tunnel - still unsure what I'd like to do. I don't have a drill press or access to one so I don't know. |
Originally Posted by ioTus
(Post 11437268)
The color match on the SEM burgundy is 95-97%.
Originally Posted by ioTus
(Post 11437268)
Giving shit for painting screw heads??? PFFFFT. I've painted EVERY screw I've taken off so far. ALL interior screws have been painted burgundy, and the headlight bucket screws are now matte black.
Originally Posted by ioTus
(Post 11437268)
Keep it up bro - gauges are next on my list too. either tonight or tomorrow AM. Where you thinking of tapping them in? I was thinking to the stereo power harness, although I'm hesitant to add any potential line noise or ground loops into that already convoluted harness.
|
Yeah I took the time to restore most of the hardware in my engine bay (chemical strip rust and paint heads black) and have painted lots of other little things here and there. I think a lot of us are that anal about the cars, we just don't post about it as much as DivinDriver does lol.
FYI, any rx7 shift rod can be used as the "base" shift rod for the modification. So if you don't want to risk messing up the T2 rod just use one out of a 12a trans or a NA FC or whatever you can find. You'll need to do some measuring to get it right since both the NA FC and 12a shift rod have the current hole in a different spot than the T2, so you can use the "move it 30mm forward" method... |
6 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by 82transam
(Post 11437294)
FYI, any rx7 shift rod can be used as the "base" shift rod for the modification. So if you don't want to risk messing up the T2 rod just use one out of a 12a trans or a NA FC or whatever you can find. You'll need to do some measuring to get it right since both the NA FC and 12a shift rod have the current hole in a different spot than the T2, so you can use the "move it 30mm forward" method...
Well, got a lot done today! What the engine looked like this morning: Attachment 675424 Drilled and tapped the water pump housing for my 1/8 NPT water temp sensor for the temp gauge Attachment 675425 Attachment 675426 New thermostat Attachment 675427 Got the oil temp and oil pressure gauge ready for install Attachment 675428 How the engine looked when done Attachment 675429 List of work done: New water pump housing to block gasket New thermostat New thermostat gasket Drilled and tapped hole for Auto Meter water temp gauge sensor Hooked up turbo coolant line Readied for oil temp and pressure gauges Oil pan gasket installed Modified engine mounting brace for 13b engine In other words - COMPLETELY ENGINE DONE! I could now insert the engine into the 12a car but can't yet, since there's too much snow around. Will be going in soon though, super stoked! |
EWWWW tell me you have the fram filter because its keeping the dirt divers out?
All and all looking good :icon_tup: |
Originally Posted by Qingdao
(Post 11438524)
EWWWW tell me you have the fram filter because its keeping the dirt divers out?
All and all looking good :icon_tup: Thanks, culmination of 9 hours of hard work today and I feel pretty accomplished :egrin: |
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